From mustang at wabba.net  Fri May  1 12:44:39 2009
From: mustang at wabba.net (Bryan Fuller)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 08:44:39 -0700
Subject: [CM] Mustangs at the beach ?
In-Reply-To: <20626692.1240848884352.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <20626692.1240848884352.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <000901c9ca73$bd49ccf0$37dd66d0$@net>

Stumbled across this today?.I do believe that?s a 66 Shelby :P

 

http://www.lolpix.com/_pics/Funny_Pictures_540/Funny_Pictures_5401.jpg

 

 

 

 

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Dave Schmitt
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 9:15 AM
To: MUSTANG at wabba.net
Subject: Re: [CM] oil filters

 

Here is an interesting bit on oil filters.  I can't vouch for the content, but it is interesting:

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html

I've been running Penzoil 10w-30 ever since Penzoil 10w-40 blew a hole in my oil filter (I didn't change from using Motorcraft filters though).  I was told the 10w-40 had too many additives to obtain the viscoscity range.

Dave



 
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From mahilly at gmail.com  Sat May  2 01:40:58 2009
From: mahilly at gmail.com (Mike H)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 21:40:58 -0700
Subject: [CM] Differential Oil
In-Reply-To: <469F540C799147668F3404032DC23574@VAIO>
References: <AcnIdyDda1dPt8/1TYy5k+DoiTEi8Q==>
	<469F540C799147668F3404032DC23574@VAIO>
Message-ID: <ed3b22350905012140i711bfa8eve067d3bda4271e56@mail.gmail.com>

Admittedly, I have never bothered to change the rear diff oil in my 67.
This thread has me feeling guilty now.  Can someone point me to a procedure
or how-to for doing this?  I checked the FSM and didn't find anything
regarding maintenance of the rear axle.

On Tue, Apr 28, 2009 at 8:03 PM, Steve Hawkins <shawkins777 at comcast.net>wrote:

>  I have a 68 Fastback and was wondering what type/weight oil I should use.
>
> Steve
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>
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From walt at boeninger.net  Sat May  2 02:06:14 2009
From: walt at boeninger.net (Walt Boeninger)
Date: Fri, 01 May 2009 22:06:14 -0700
Subject: [CM] Differential Oil
In-Reply-To: <ed3b22350905012140i711bfa8eve067d3bda4271e56@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AcnIdyDda1dPt8/1TYy5k+DoiTEi8Q==>	<469F540C799147668F3404032DC23574@VAIO>
	<ed3b22350905012140i711bfa8eve067d3bda4271e56@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49FBD4C6.3090208@boeninger.net>


Mike H wrote:
> Admittedly, I have never bothered to change the rear diff oil in my 
> 67.  This thread has me feeling guilty now.  Can someone point me to a 
> procedure or how-to for doing this?  I checked the FSM and didn't find 
> anything regarding maintenance of the rear axle.

I wouldn't feel guilty ..... the '71 service manual says the rear end fluid
need not be drained regularly, it can remain for the life of the 
vehicle....8-)
And only be changed when the unit needs service....

...of course they weren't expecting us to still be driving these cars 40 
years later.....

The only way to drain the rear diff is to unbolt the carrier from the 
housing
and make a big mess.....  there is no drain. ....  then you'll have to 
scoop or
turkey baster the residual fluid in the housing....  oh, and since 
you'll have
to remove the axles to do this, you'll probably want to have the bearings
changed...  as a matter of fact you might as well have the the rearend
checked out  ... etc...... 

...or just pop open a can of Bud and be glad you're only feeling guilty and
don't have any real problem with the rear end....8-)

Walt


 

From mahilly at gmail.com  Sat May  2 02:40:20 2009
From: mahilly at gmail.com (Mike H)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 22:40:20 -0700
Subject: [CM] Differential Oil
In-Reply-To: <49FBD4C6.3090208@boeninger.net>
References: <469F540C799147668F3404032DC23574@VAIO>
	<ed3b22350905012140i711bfa8eve067d3bda4271e56@mail.gmail.com>
	<49FBD4C6.3090208@boeninger.net>
Message-ID: <ed3b22350905012240r462b2a07t1b52284e0a4166a@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Walt, I feel much better now!  I think I'll take your advice - except
I'll pop a bottle of home brew (a new hobby I picked up this winter while
the mustang was hibernating)!!! ;>

On Fri, May 1, 2009 at 10:06 PM, Walt Boeninger <walt at boeninger.net> wrote:

>
> Mike H wrote:
> > Admittedly, I have never bothered to change the rear diff oil in my
> > 67.  This thread has me feeling guilty now.  Can someone point me to a
> > procedure or how-to for doing this?  I checked the FSM and didn't find
> > anything regarding maintenance of the rear axle.
>
> I wouldn't feel guilty ..... the '71 service manual says the rear end fluid
> need not be drained regularly, it can remain for the life of the
> vehicle....8-)
> And only be changed when the unit needs service....
>
> ...of course they weren't expecting us to still be driving these cars 40
> years later.....
>
> The only way to drain the rear diff is to unbolt the carrier from the
> housing
> and make a big mess.....  there is no drain. ....  then you'll have to
> scoop or
> turkey baster the residual fluid in the housing....  oh, and since
> you'll have
> to remove the axles to do this, you'll probably want to have the bearings
> changed...  as a matter of fact you might as well have the the rearend
> checked out  ... etc......
>
> ...or just pop open a can of Bud and be glad you're only feeling guilty and
> don't have any real problem with the rear end....8-)
>
> Walt
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
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From dschmi at ix.netcom.com  Sat May  2 07:45:17 2009
From: dschmi at ix.netcom.com (Dave)
Date: Sat, 02 May 2009 06:45:17 -0400
Subject: [CM] Boss 302 Radiator
In-Reply-To: <E09881726A5543BEA681F8782974D3DD@dettori01>
References: <F7F081566E1547389CFAC8B4F8ACAEA4@dettori01>	<49E0E1CB.2010900@comcast.net>
	<E09881726A5543BEA681F8782974D3DD@dettori01>
Message-ID: <49FC243D.5090001@ix.netcom.com>

John,

Don't know if you got an answer on your radiator fan for the boss 302 or 
not,
the '70 is a 4-blade, 17.5" diameter...casting number D0ZE-8600-B
The '69 came with and without a fan clutch.
before 4-4-69 with clutch, 5 blade, 17-1/2" diameter, casting number 
C9WE-8600-A
after 4-4-69 with clutch, 5 blade, 17-1/2" diameter, casting number 
C8SE-8600-B or C8SE-8600-D
all '69 without clutch, 4 blade, 17-1/8" diameter, casting number 
C7AE-8600-F

Dave


John Dettori wrote:
> Thanks David, this response helps alot!
> John
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     *From:* David <mailto:W427 at comcast.net>
>     *To:* John Dettori <mailto:jdettori at optonline.net>
>     *Sent:* Saturday, April 11, 2009 2:30 PM
>     *Subject:* Re: [CM] Boss 302 Radiator
>
>     Something's wrong here.  With the openings capped, bead blasting
>     is not an issue.  I have never seen or heard of typical paint
>     strippers (hardware store methylene chloride or acetone/alcohol
>     aircraft types) affecting solder, however, I have seen it take
>     flux off.  You can always call the 1-800 number on the can and ask
>     for verification.  I do not understand his excuses.  That's what
>     bothers me about it.  Now, I wouldn't bead blast it anyway, as
>     that tends to work-harden the brass and can embrittle it.  If you
>     want to bead blast it, you can anneal it, but that will de-solder
>     it as well. :-(  I vote to start over at another shop complete
>     with retesting.  If you think the pressure test really did pass
>     (and not because flux plugged the pinholes), then I would vote to
>     chem-strip it.
>
>     When stripping stuff like this, I like to use minimal stripper and
>     spray it on (laundry spray bottle or garden sprayer for big jobs)
>     while sitting in doubled garbage bags (the part - not you).  Tie
>     it off and let it sit overnight before testing for paint softness
>     and squirting it clean.  The bag prevents evaporation and provides
>     a nice greenhouse for the chemicals.  Oh - test your bag first as
>     some brands may get soft or something, although I haven't had that
>     with the various unknown brands I've used.  For really big jobs,
>     get the heavy mattress shipping bags from the dumpster at the
>     local mattress store.  As you can imagine, clean-up is a breeze. 
>     Well, almost.
>     ;-)
>     David
>
>     John Dettori wrote:
>>      They said it was a bad idea to glass bead it now (for fear of
>>     glass beads getting inside the cleaned out internals of
>>     the radiator), and dunking it in paint remover was not
>>     recommended - something about breaking down solder and causing leaks.
>>      
>
>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>     _______________________________________________
>     Classic-mustangs mailing list
>     Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>     http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>     Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>     No virus found in this incoming message.
>     Checked by AVG.
>     Version: 7.5.557 / Virus Database: 270.11.53/2054 - Release Date:
>     4/11/2009 10:51 AM
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>   


From ckelly at raceabilene.com  Sat May  2 08:57:48 2009
From: ckelly at raceabilene.com (raceabilene)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 06:57:48 -0500
Subject: [CM] Differential Oil
In-Reply-To: <49FBD4C6.3090208@boeninger.net>
References: <AcnIdyDda1dPt8/1TYy5k+DoiTEi8Q==>	<469F540C799147668F3404032DC23574@VAIO>
	<ed3b22350905012140i711bfa8eve067d3bda4271e56@mail.gmail.com>
	<49FBD4C6.3090208@boeninger.net>
Message-ID: <1E2D00C5-882F-4860-8B42-8978CF622D7C@raceabilene.com>

If there are no problems with the rear, the gear oil will be fine -  
even for 40 years.  To change, you would have to pull the center ( v8  
cars) or the rear cover (early 6 and late model).  There is no drain  
plug, like a trans.

On May 2, 2009, at 12:06 AM, Walt Boeninger <walt at boeninger.net> wrote:

>
> Mike H wrote:
>> Admittedly, I have never bothered to change the rear diff oil in my
>> 67.  This thread has me feeling guilty now.  Can someone point me  
>> to a
>> procedure or how-to for doing this? I checked the FSM and didn't find
>> anything regarding maintenance of the rear axle.
>
> I wouldn't feel guilty ..... the '71 service manual says the rear  
> end fluid
> need not be drained regularly, it can remain for the life of the
> vehicle....8-)
> And only be changed when the unit needs service....
>
> ...of course they weren't expecting us to still be driving these  
> cars 40
> years later.....
>
> The only way to drain the rear diff is to unbolt the carrier from the
> housing
> and make a big mess.....  there is no drain. ....  then you'll have to
> scoop or
> turkey baster the residual fluid in the housing....  oh, and since
> you'll have
> to remove the axles to do this, you'll probably want to have the  
> bearings
> changed...  as a matter of fact you might as well have the the rearend
> checked out  ... etc......
>
> ...or just pop open a can of Bud and be glad you're only feeling  
> guilty and
> don't have any real problem with the rear end....8-)
>
> Walt
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

From mustang at peskin.org  Sat May  2 22:44:59 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 18:44:59 -0700
Subject: [CM] Differential Oil
In-Reply-To: <1E2D00C5-882F-4860-8B42-8978CF622D7C@raceabilene.com>
References: <AcnIdyDda1dPt8/1TYy5k+DoiTEi8Q==>	<469F540C799147668F3404032DC23574@VAIO>
	<ed3b22350905012140i711bfa8eve067d3bda4271e56@mail.gmail.com>
	<49FBD4C6.3090208@boeninger.net>
	<1E2D00C5-882F-4860-8B42-8978CF622D7C@raceabilene.com>
Message-ID: <E834FBDC-6787-4592-8EF1-5040E7F2398E@peskin.org>

I did most of mine for peace of mind when I got the car:

My factory 2.80 8" open in my '65 has a plug about mid-way up the  
backside of it that has a 1/2" ratchet square on it. I opened it up,  
siphoned out what I could with a $4 "fluid transfer pump" from Harbor  
Freight (2 clear hoses, and a black rubber bulb in the middle), then  
re-filled appropriately (noting how much came out of it). Of course  
after I did all this I noticed a SMALL leak around one of my axle  
seals -- which would have suggested I needed to pull the rear anyway.  
Sigh -- we never win :)


On May 2, 2009, at 4:57 AM, raceabilene wrote:

> If there are no problems with the rear, the gear oil will be fine -
> even for 40 years.  To change, you would have to pull the center ( v8
> cars) or the rear cover (early 6 and late model).  There is no drain
> plug, like a trans.


From mustangpaul at gmail.com  Sat May  2 22:48:03 2009
From: mustangpaul at gmail.com (Paul Sawyer)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 20:48:03 -0500
Subject: [CM] Differential Oil
In-Reply-To: <E834FBDC-6787-4592-8EF1-5040E7F2398E@peskin.org>
References: <469F540C799147668F3404032DC23574@VAIO>
	<ed3b22350905012140i711bfa8eve067d3bda4271e56@mail.gmail.com>
	<49FBD4C6.3090208@boeninger.net>
	<1E2D00C5-882F-4860-8B42-8978CF622D7C@raceabilene.com>
	<E834FBDC-6787-4592-8EF1-5040E7F2398E@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <929e6daa0905021848m3b816124w620a8b63daaeabf7@mail.gmail.com>

That's what I did.  The rear end is one of the few places that doesn't seep
on my GT.  I use the standard Ford stuff.

Man, that used fluid is nasty smelling stuff!

On Sat, May 2, 2009 at 8:44 PM, Brandon Peskin <mustang at peskin.org> wrote:

> I did most of mine for peace of mind when I got the car:
>
> My factory 2.80 8" open in my '65 has a plug about mid-way up the
> backside of it that has a 1/2" ratchet square on it. I opened it up,
> siphoned out what I could with a $4 "fluid transfer pump" from Harbor
> Freight (2 clear hoses, and a black rubber bulb in the middle), then
> re-filled appropriately (noting how much came out of it). Of course
> after I did all this I noticed a SMALL leak around one of my axle
> seals -- which would have suggested I needed to pull the rear anyway.
> Sigh -- we never win :)
>
>
> On May 2, 2009, at 4:57 AM, raceabilene wrote:
>
> > If there are no problems with the rear, the gear oil will be fine -
> > even for 40 years.  To change, you would have to pull the center ( v8
> > cars) or the rear cover (early 6 and late model).  There is no drain
> > plug, like a trans.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/<http://sauce.donair.org/%7Ecm/>
>
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From jdettori at optonline.net  Sun May  3 16:32:43 2009
From: jdettori at optonline.net (John Dettori)
Date: Sun, 03 May 2009 15:32:43 -0400
Subject: [CM] Boss 302 Radiator
References: <F7F081566E1547389CFAC8B4F8ACAEA4@dettori01>
	<49E0E1CB.2010900@comcast.net>
	<E09881726A5543BEA681F8782974D3DD@dettori01>
	<49FC243D.5090001@ix.netcom.com>
Message-ID: <967BA68E42DC4C018E00B62D89D96EBD@dettori01>

Dave,

Thanks for your help.  Do you have or could you send a photograph of the 
1970 fan?  Is this similar to the standard 289 - 302 4 blade fan?

I think I have one of the '69 5 blade clutch fans.  Perhaps if I degreased 
it and photographed it, you could help me determine what I have?  I measured 
it and it's definately 5 blades, 17.5"diameter.  It fits perfectly in the 
NOS Ford fan shroud I bought.  Where would I find the part number?

I wonder why they used a clutch fan in 1969 and not in 1970?  I thought that 
clutch fans were specified for A/C cars, which the Boss 302 was never 
equipped with.  My assumption is that the metal coil in the center of the 
fan is two dissimilar metals that bend at different rates, in effect a 
thermostat.  This could have the fan spinning in sync with the crank / water 
pump impeller at low rpms and releasing at higher rpms.  Since the Boss 302 
is a high-rpm capable engine, Ford took measures to ensure that the belts 
didn't snap, e.g. the larger alternator pulley to slow the "fan belt rpm". 
It makes sense to me then that a clutch fan - which provided more cooling at 
lower rpms and spun freely at higher rpms - would be used on a high rpm 
engine like the Boss 302.

I also wonder then if Ford hadn't either recognized that they 
"over-engineered" the fan portion of the cooling system or made other 
improvements to it such as not to need it anymore, thus lowering the 
production cost.

Do you agree?

As for the radiator, I bought 5 gallons of lacquer thinner and intend to 
fill an old fish tank with lacquer thinner, dunk and brush until all the old 
paint comes off.

Best Regards,
John
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave" <dschmi at ix.netcom.com>
To: "John Dettori" <jdettori at optonline.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 02, 2009 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: [CM] Boss 302 Radiator


> John,
>
> Don't know if you got an answer on your radiator fan for the boss 302 or
> not,
> the '70 is a 4-blade, 17.5" diameter...casting number D0ZE-8600-B
> The '69 came with and without a fan clutch.
> before 4-4-69 with clutch, 5 blade, 17-1/2" diameter, casting number
> C9WE-8600-A
> after 4-4-69 with clutch, 5 blade, 17-1/2" diameter, casting number
> C8SE-8600-B or C8SE-8600-D
> all '69 without clutch, 4 blade, 17-1/8" diameter, casting number
> C7AE-8600-F
>
> Dave
>
>
> John Dettori wrote:
>> Thanks David, this response helps alot!
>> John
>>
>>     ----- Original Message -----
>>     *From:* David <mailto:W427 at comcast.net>
>>     *To:* John Dettori <mailto:jdettori at optonline.net>
>>     *Sent:* Saturday, April 11, 2009 2:30 PM
>>     *Subject:* Re: [CM] Boss 302 Radiator
>>
>>     Something's wrong here.  With the openings capped, bead blasting
>>     is not an issue.  I have never seen or heard of typical paint
>>     strippers (hardware store methylene chloride or acetone/alcohol
>>     aircraft types) affecting solder, however, I have seen it take
>>     flux off.  You can always call the 1-800 number on the can and ask
>>     for verification.  I do not understand his excuses.  That's what
>>     bothers me about it.  Now, I wouldn't bead blast it anyway, as
>>     that tends to work-harden the brass and can embrittle it.  If you
>>     want to bead blast it, you can anneal it, but that will de-solder
>>     it as well. :-(  I vote to start over at another shop complete
>>     with retesting.  If you think the pressure test really did pass
>>     (and not because flux plugged the pinholes), then I would vote to
>>     chem-strip it.
>>
>>     When stripping stuff like this, I like to use minimal stripper and
>>     spray it on (laundry spray bottle or garden sprayer for big jobs)
>>     while sitting in doubled garbage bags (the part - not you).  Tie
>>     it off and let it sit overnight before testing for paint softness
>>     and squirting it clean.  The bag prevents evaporation and provides
>>     a nice greenhouse for the chemicals.  Oh - test your bag first as
>>     some brands may get soft or something, although I haven't had that
>>     with the various unknown brands I've used.  For really big jobs,
>>     get the heavy mattress shipping bags from the dumpster at the
>>     local mattress store.  As you can imagine, clean-up is a breeze.
>>     Well, almost.
>>     ;-)
>>     David
>>
>>     John Dettori wrote:
>>>      They said it was a bad idea to glass bead it now (for fear of
>>>     glass beads getting inside the cleaned out internals of
>>>     the radiator), and dunking it in paint remover was not
>>>     recommended - something about breaking down solder and causing 
>>> leaks.
>>>
>>
>>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Classic-mustangs mailing list
>>     Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>>     http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>>
>>     Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>>
>>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>     No virus found in this incoming message.
>>     Checked by AVG.
>>     Version: 7.5.557 / Virus Database: 270.11.53/2054 - Release Date:
>>     4/11/2009 10:51 AM
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Classic-mustangs mailing list
>> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>>
>> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.557 / Virus Database: 270.12.11/2089 - Release Date: 
> 4/30/2009 5:53 PM
>
> 


From Lance at Robaldo.com  Sun May  3 20:21:53 2009
From: Lance at Robaldo.com (Lance Robaldo)
Date: Sun, 03 May 2009 19:21:53 -0400
Subject: [CM] Nordskog gauges
Message-ID: <000301c9cc45$f4ba7580$de2f6080$@com>

Well after 5 MONTHS waiting, my Nordskog digital gauges  with BLUE LED's
have finally arrived!   

 

I hooked power up to them briefly just to see what they look like and I must
say they look pretty awesome.   

I can't wait to see them fully installed.

 

I was a bit too busy this weekend to start installing it.  I'm hoping to
install them next weekend.  

 

The instructions are pretty straight forward and it came with all the
necessary sending units.  

My only complaint so far is that they didn't include any connectors to
splice into the existing wiring harness.  

I have a bunch of butt connectors and heat shrink tubing but to really have
a complete kit, it should have included them.

 

 As usual, there'll be plenty of pictures posted on my website detailing the
install and end-results.

 

Lance. 

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From jeffsubs at shanholtz.com  Tue May  5 00:01:36 2009
From: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com (Jeff Shanholtz)
Date: Mon, 04 May 2009 20:01:36 -0700
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
Message-ID: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com>

Lately I've noticed that my brakes seem especially prone to locking up,
causing a momentary skid until I let off. It's happened several times in the
last few weeks. It happens when I apply more force than usual, but certainly
not an excessive amount.

 

Any idea why this might be happening? I haven't done any brake work
recently. I have 4 wheel drums. It's a 66 coupe.

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From walt at boeninger.net  Tue May  5 00:13:36 2009
From: walt at boeninger.net (Walt Boeninger)
Date: Mon, 04 May 2009 20:13:36 -0700
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
In-Reply-To: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com>
References: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com>
Message-ID: <49FFAEE0.8080707@boeninger.net>

Front or rear?

You should feel blessed .... having drum brakes that actually *can* lockup..

If nothing has changed ... I'll take a W.A.G.  (WildAssGuess)

It's the rear, and it happens mostly when cold, not when hot....
You have a rear axle seal that's leaking and the rear shoes are contaminated
with grease.  When they are cold they will lock up, once they get hot they
won't  ... and they won't work very well......  if the seal is leaking you'll
probably see grease at the bottom of the backing plate....

Grease could also be on the front shoes ... but it's less likely


Jeff Shanholtz wrote:
> Lately I?ve noticed that my brakes seem especially prone to locking up, 
> causing a momentary skid until I let off. It?s happened several times in 
> the last few weeks. It happens when I apply more force than usual, but 
> certainly not an excessive amount.
> 
>  
> 
> Any idea why this might be happening? I haven?t done any brake work 
> recently. I have 4 wheel drums. It?s a 66 coupe.
> 
>  

-- 

Regards
--------------
Walt Boeninger
webmaster at vintagemustang.org
webmaster at norcal-saac.org
http://shelbytransam.com

From jdettori at optonline.net  Tue May  5 01:04:14 2009
From: jdettori at optonline.net (jdettori at optonline.net)
Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 04:04:14 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
In-Reply-To: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com>
References: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com>
Message-ID: <e464dbcc1201b.49ffbabe@optonline.net>

I had this in my 70 Boss 302 (Power front disc/rear drum brakes): it was failing/stuck wheel cylinder, as well as failing hoses / lines.

It could also be a bad proportioning valve.

Do your brakes / have your brakes done

----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Shanholtz 
Date: Monday, May 4, 2009 11:02 pm
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
To: John Dettori 

> Lately I've noticed that my brakes seem especially prone to 
> locking up,
> causing a momentary skid until I let off. It's happened several 
> times in the
> last few weeks. It happens when I apply more force than usual, 
> but certainly
> not an excessive amount.
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea why this might be happening? I haven't done any brake work
> recently. I have 4 wheel drums. It's a 66 coupe.
> 
> 
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From TDERRICK at mindspring.com  Tue May  5 07:59:56 2009
From: TDERRICK at mindspring.com (AJ Derrick)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 05:59:56 -0500
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
In-Reply-To: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com>
References: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com>
Message-ID: <69B9949D-04F1-4521-A693-1D9337CAB960@mindspring.com>

Mine will lock up if they are wet from sitting up. After they dry out  
they are fine...


AJ Derrick
'95 GT
'66 Restomod 289 4V



On May 4, 2009, at 10:01 PM, Jeff Shanholtz wrote:

> Lately I?ve noticed that my brakes seem especially prone to locking  
> up, causing a momentary skid until I let off. It?s happened several  
> times in the last few weeks. It happens when I apply more force  
> than usual, but certainly not an excessive amount.
>
>
>
> Any idea why this might be happening? I haven?t done any brake work  
> recently. I have 4 wheel drums. It?s a 66 coupe.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

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From rogers0117 at comcast.net  Tue May  5 09:54:27 2009
From: rogers0117 at comcast.net (Mike Rogers)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 08:54:27 -0400
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
In-Reply-To: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com>
References: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACiCWmYarEFCotYKvZg4tKzCgAAAEAAAAGbUCPsjKRVHohemn/JVWkwBAAAAAA==@comcast.net>

I had the same problem with my 70 Mach I.  Discovered the previous owners
did not bleed the brakes.  Water had caused gunk/mud to accumulate in the
rear cylinders which caused them to lock and not release.  Replaced the
cylinders and bleed the lines.  Problem solved.

 

Mike

 

  _____  

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Jeff
Shanholtz
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 11:02 PM
To: rogers0117 at comcast.net
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up

 

Lately I've noticed that my brakes seem especially prone to locking up,
causing a momentary skid until I let off. It's happened several times in the
last few weeks. It happens when I apply more force than usual, but certainly
not an excessive amount.

 

Any idea why this might be happening? I haven't done any brake work
recently. I have 4 wheel drums. It's a 66 coupe.

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From mustangpaul at gmail.com  Tue May  5 10:12:02 2009
From: mustangpaul at gmail.com (Paul Sawyer)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 08:12:02 -0500
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACiCWmYarEFCotYKvZg4tKzCgAAAEAAAAGbUCPsjKRVHohemn/JVWkwBAAAAAA==@comcast.net>
References: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACiCWmYarEFCotYKvZg4tKzCgAAAEAAAAGbUCPsjKRVHohemn/JVWkwBAAAAAA==@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <929e6daa0905050612h434da713y574ee6379ca93edc@mail.gmail.com>

That's what I was going to suggest.  I've also had issues like this when the
PO didn't totally remove the DOT 3 brake fluid before he added DOT 5.

A good brake bleeding/flushing/cleaning will go a long way.

On Tue, May 5, 2009 at 7:54 AM, Mike Rogers <rogers0117 at comcast.net> wrote:

>  I had the same problem with my 70 Mach I.  Discovered the previous owners
> did not bleed the brakes.  Water had caused gunk/mud to accumulate in the
> rear cylinders which caused them to lock and not release.  Replaced the
> cylinders and bleed the lines.  Problem solved.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>  ------------------------------
>
> *From:* classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:
> classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] *On Behalf Of *Jeff
> Shanholtz
> *Sent:* Monday, May 04, 2009 11:02 PM
> *To:* rogers0117 at comcast.net
> *Subject:* [CM] brakes locking up
>
>
>
> Lately I?ve noticed that my brakes seem especially prone to locking up,
> causing a momentary skid until I let off. It?s happened several times in the
> last few weeks. It happens when I apply more force than usual, but certainly
> not an excessive amount.
>
>
>
> Any idea why this might be happening? I haven?t done any brake work
> recently. I have 4 wheel drums. It?s a 66 coupe.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/<http://sauce.donair.org/%7Ecm/>
>
>
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From TDERRICK at mindspring.com  Tue May  5 10:17:21 2009
From: TDERRICK at mindspring.com (AJ Derrick)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 08:17:21 -0500
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACiCWmYarEFCotYKvZg4tKzCgAAAEAAAAGbUCPsjKRVHohemn/JVWkwBAAAAAA==@comcast.net>
References: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACiCWmYarEFCotYKvZg4tKzCgAAAEAAAAGbUCPsjKRVHohemn/JVWkwBAAAAAA==@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C6999317-D7E7-4C28-9F98-B7D7BA993557@mindspring.com>

Looks like we've deduced it is fluid of some type...


  If it still does it after a good run, (to dry out
mere water moisture) then it must be brake fluid or rear diff oil. If  
that's the case, time to
open it up and take a look.



AJ Derrick
'95 GT
'66 Restomod 289 4V



On May 5, 2009, at 7:54 AM, Mike Rogers wrote:

> I had the same problem with my 70 Mach I.  Discovered the previous  
> owners did not bleed the brakes.  Water had caused gunk/mud to  
> accumulate in the rear cylinders which caused them to lock and not  
> release.  Replaced the cylinders and bleed the lines.  Problem solved.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic- 
> mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Jeff Shanholtz
> Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 11:02 PM
> To: rogers0117 at comcast.net
> Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
>
>
>
> Lately I?ve noticed that my brakes seem especially prone to locking  
> up, causing a momentary skid until I let off. It?s happened several  
> times in the last few weeks. It happens when I apply more force  
> than usual, but certainly not an excessive amount.
>
>
>
> Any idea why this might be happening? I haven?t done any brake work  
> recently. I have 4 wheel drums. It?s a 66 coupe.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

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From SSEXSMITH at capousd.org  Tue May  5 13:01:35 2009
From: SSEXSMITH at capousd.org (Sexsmith, Scott)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 09:01:35 -0700
Subject: [CM] 4-speed to 5-speed swap in So Cal
In-Reply-To: <C6999317-D7E7-4C28-9F98-B7D7BA993557@mindspring.com>
References: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com><!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACiCWmYarEFCotYKvZg4tKzCgAAAEAAAAGbUCPsjKRVHohemn/JVWkwBAAAAAA==@comcast.net>
	<C6999317-D7E7-4C28-9F98-B7D7BA993557@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <8849EFC485BBB646A2706F0A1C89A584A45502@DIST-WIN-MAIL-8.cusdnet.org>

Hi,
 
I'm looking for someone to do my 65 convertible transmission swap for
me.  I can do it but I'm just out of time and need it done pronto.  Can
anyone recommend anyone in the So. Cal area that has experience with
this swap and does decent work?
 
Thanks,
Scott
 
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From danielknelson at gmail.com  Tue May  5 13:41:09 2009
From: danielknelson at gmail.com (Daniel K. Nelson)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 09:41:09 -0700
Subject: [CM] 4-speed to 5-speed swap in So Cal
In-Reply-To: <8849EFC485BBB646A2706F0A1C89A584A45502@DIST-WIN-MAIL-8.cusdnet.org>
References: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com><!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACiCWmYarEFCotYKvZg4tKzCgAAAEAAAAGbUCPsjKRVHohemn/JVWkwBAAAAAA==@comcast.net>
	<C6999317-D7E7-4C28-9F98-B7D7BA993557@mindspring.com>
	<8849EFC485BBB646A2706F0A1C89A584A45502@DIST-WIN-MAIL-8.cusdnet.org>
Message-ID: <0D6DA1D3-D0EA-44C1-9B2C-55B1B05D6D08@gmail.com>

Chuck's Dream Machines on Fairfax,  just south of Beverly keeps my 65  
in top form.   He's actually putting my new 331 stroker in right now

D

Sent from my iPhone

On May 5, 2009, at 9:01 AM, "Sexsmith, Scott" <SSEXSMITH at capousd.org>  
wrote:

> Hi,
>
>
>
> I?m looking for someone to do my 65 convertible transmission swap fo 
> r me.  I can do it but I?m just out of time and need it done pronto. 
>   Can anyone recommend anyone in the So. Cal area that has experienc 
> e with this swap and does decent work?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott
>
>
>
> -size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font- 
> family:"Times New Roman";color:#1F497D'>Thanks,
> Scott
>
>
>
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
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From mahilly at gmail.com  Wed May  6 01:22:12 2009
From: mahilly at gmail.com (Mike H)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 21:22:12 -0700
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
In-Reply-To: <C6999317-D7E7-4C28-9F98-B7D7BA993557@mindspring.com>
References: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACiCWmYarEFCotYKvZg4tKzCgAAAEAAAAGbUCPsjKRVHohemn/JVWkwBAAAAAA==@comcast.net>
	<C6999317-D7E7-4C28-9F98-B7D7BA993557@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <ed3b22350905052122j141bf70dp2e9d170aabb240b9@mail.gmail.com>

I would say open it up and take a look regardless, especially if you haven't
done so in a while, especially since they are drums.  If the shoes are worn
down to the rivets they can grab, which may be the locking up you are
experiencing...guess how I know that one!!! ;>  my $0.02.

On Tue, May 5, 2009 at 6:17 AM, AJ Derrick <TDERRICK at mindspring.com> wrote:

>  Looks like we've deduced it is fluid of some type...
>
>
>  If it still does it after a good run, (to dry out
> mere water moisture) then it must be brake fluid or rear diff oil. If
> that's the case, time to
> open it up and take a look.
>
>
>
>  AJ Derrick
> '95 GT
> '66 Restomod 289 4V
>
>
>
>   On May 5, 2009, at 7:54 AM, Mike Rogers wrote:
>
>    I had the same problem with my 70 Mach I.  Discovered the previous
> owners did not bleed the brakes.  Water had caused gunk/mud to accumulate in
> the rear cylinders which caused them to lock and not release.  Replaced the
> cylinders and bleed the lines.  Problem solved.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>  ------------------------------
>
> *From:* classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [
> mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca<classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca>]
> *On Behalf Of *Jeff Shanholtz
> *Sent:* Monday, May 04, 2009 11:02 PM
> *To:* rogers0117 at comcast.net
> *Subject:* [CM] brakes locking up
>
>
>
> Lately I?ve noticed that my brakes seem especially prone to locking up,
> causing a momentary skid until I let off. It?s happened several times in the
> last few weeks. It happens when I apply more force than usual, but certainly
> not an excessive amount.
>
>
>
> Any idea why this might be happening? I haven?t done any brake work
> recently. I have 4 wheel drums. It?s a 66 coupe.
> _______________________________________________
>  Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>
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From jdettori at optonline.net  Wed May  6 15:30:53 2009
From: jdettori at optonline.net (jdettori at optonline.net)
Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 18:30:53 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
In-Reply-To: <ed3b22350905052122j141bf70dp2e9d170aabb240b9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACiCWmYarEFCotYKvZg4tKzCgAAAEAAAAGbUCPsjKRVHohemn/JVWkwBAAAAAA==@comcast.net>
	<C6999317-D7E7-4C28-9F98-B7D7BA993557@mindspring.com>
	<ed3b22350905052122j141bf70dp2e9d170aabb240b9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e0b6d4a01193b.4a01d75d@optonline.net>

Jeff,

Brakes are too important to guess about, especially in 40+ year-old drums.  My 2 cents:
1. Rebuild your brakes at all 4 wheels or have it done, making sure you:
    - Replace the wheel cylinders; they're cheap and give you peace of mind
    - Examine the hoses / lines.  If worn, cracked, hard/brittle, or really soft replace them.
      Again, cheap peace of mind
    - Examine the shoes; if worn down or you don't know when they were replaced last, replace.
      Again, cheap peace of mind
    - Examine the drums, resurface / replace as required
 2. Grease / repack the wheel bearings, replacing as needed.  This is often over-looked; people
     forget that ~52% of the weight of your Mustang is riding on two 6" long spindles and the bearings in a holder (I think it's called a "race") that rides on it.  
3.  Examine the brake lines, particularly at bends, and the terminal ends.
4.  Test the master cylinder; it either works or it doesn't 

Some may regard this as "extreme", and only focus on the the problem at hand.  But last year, as I got off the expressway onto a highway with traffic lights, doing about 40mph in my 70 Boss 302, I had the scare of my life when I touched the brakes, finding the rears locking up and skidding to a stop that narrowly avoiding crashing into the car just 5 car lengths ahead of me.  I replaced the entire braking system (except hard lines front caliphers, the master cylinder and power booster), and couldn't be happier now.  My problem was 2 bad wheel cylinders and 2 soft spongy hoses.  It works perfectly now.

Best Regards,
John    


----- Original Message -----
From: Mike H 
Date: Wednesday, May 6, 2009 12:22 am
Subject: Re: [CM] brakes locking up
To: John Dettori 

> I would say open it up and take a look regardless, especially if 
> you haven't
> done so in a while, especially since they are drums. If the 
> shoes are worn
> down to the rivets they can grab, which may be the locking up 
> you are
> experiencing...guess how I know that one!!! ;> my $0.02.
> 
> On Tue, May 5, 2009 at 6:17 AM, AJ Derrick 
> wrote:
> 
> > Looks like we've deduced it is fluid of some type...
> >
> >
> > If it still does it after a good run, (to dry out
> > mere water moisture) then it must be brake fluid or rear diff 
> oil. If
> > that's the case, time to
> > open it up and take a look.
> >
> >
> >
> > AJ Derrick
> > '95 GT
> > '66 Restomod 289 4V
> >
> >
> >
> > On May 5, 2009, at 7:54 AM, Mike Rogers wrote:
> >
> > I had the same problem with my 70 Mach I. Discovered the 
> previous> owners did not bleed the brakes. Water had caused 
> gunk/mud to accumulate in
> > the rear cylinders which caused them to lock and not release. 
> Replaced the
> > cylinders and bleed the lines. Problem solved.
> >
> >
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > *From:* classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [
> > mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca> mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca>]
> > *On Behalf Of *Jeff Shanholtz
> > *Sent:* Monday, May 04, 2009 11:02 PM
> > *To:* rogers0117 at comcast.net
> > *Subject:* [CM] brakes locking up
> >
> >
> >
> > Lately I?ve noticed that my brakes seem especially prone to 
> locking up,
> > causing a momentary skid until I let off. It?s happened 
> several times in the
> > last few weeks. It happens when I apply more force than usual, 
> but certainly
> > not an excessive amount.
> >
> >
> >
> > Any idea why this might be happening? I haven?t done any brake work
> > recently. I have 4 wheel drums. It?s a 66 coupe.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classic-mustangs mailing list
> > Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> > http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> >
> > Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classic-mustangs mailing list
> > Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> > http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> >
> > Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> >
> >
> 
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From dano at process.com  Wed May  6 16:10:16 2009
From: dano at process.com (Dan O'Reilly)
Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 13:10:16 -0600
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
In-Reply-To: <e0b6d4a01193b.4a01d75d@optonline.net>
References: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACiCWmYarEFCotYKvZg4tKzCgAAAEAAAAGbUCPsjKRVHohemn/JVWkwBAAAAAA==@comcast.net>
	<C6999317-D7E7-4C28-9F98-B7D7BA993557@mindspring.com>
	<ed3b22350905052122j141bf70dp2e9d170aabb240b9@mail.gmail.com>
	<e0b6d4a01193b.4a01d75d@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <6.1.2.0.2.20090506130555.0b0586c0@raptor.psccos.com>

Heck, the first thing I do when I start restoring a car (even before the 
engine) is to go thru the brakes.  I don't care what shape I find anything 
in (save for the drums, metal brake lines, master cylinder and spindles), 
it all goes in the trash and gets replaced.  That's shoes, bearings, races, 
seals, wheel cylinders, brake hardware kits, hoses, the whole 9 yards, 
front and rear.  That way, I know exactly what I'm dealing with.  Heck, you 
can get all the pieces to completely rebuild the brakes and turn the drums 
for less than $150; $250 if you have to replace the drums as well.

At 12:30 PM 5/6/2009, jdettori at optonline.net wrote:
>Content-type: multipart/alternative;
>         boundary="Boundary_(ID_eAqMIQHNEYJIvEJZIr9Pmw)"
>Content-language: en
>
>Jeff,
>
>Brakes are too important to guess about, especially in 40+ year-old 
>drums.  My 2 cents:
>1. Rebuild your brakes at all 4 wheels or have it done, making sure you:
>     - Replace the wheel cylinders; they're cheap and give you peace of mind
>     - Examine the hoses / lines.  If worn, cracked, hard/brittle, or 
> really soft replace them.
>       Again, cheap peace of mind
>     - Examine the shoes; if worn down or you don't know when they were 
> replaced last, replace.
>       Again, cheap peace of mind
>     - Examine the drums, resurface / replace as required
>  2. Grease / repack the wheel bearings, replacing as needed.  This is 
> often over-looked; people
>      forget that ~52% of the weight of your Mustang is riding on two 6" 
> long spindles and the bearings in a holder (I think it's called a "race") 
> that rides on it.
>3.  Examine the brake lines, particularly at bends, and the terminal ends.
>4.  Test the master cylinder; it either works or it doesn't
>
>Some may regard this as "extreme", and only focus on the the problem at 
>hand.  But last year, as I got off the expressway onto a highway with 
>traffic lights, doing about 40mph in my 70 Boss 302, I had the scare of my 
>life when I touched the brakes, finding the rears locking up and skidding 
>to a stop that narrowly avoiding crashing into the car just 5 car lengths 
>ahead of me.  I replaced the entire braking system (except hard lines 
>front caliphers, the master cylinder and power booster), and couldn't be 
>happier now.  My problem was 2 bad wheel cylinders and 2 soft spongy 
>hoses.  It works perfectly now.
>
>Best Regards,
>John

---

Dan O'Reilly
1971 Bright Red Mach 1
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO



From jeffsubs at shanholtz.com  Wed May  6 16:38:02 2009
From: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com (Jeff Shanholtz)
Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 12:38:02 -0700
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
In-Reply-To: <e0b6d4a01193b.4a01d75d@optonline.net>
References: <007b01c9cd2d$daa41aa0$8fec4fe0$@com><!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACiCWmYarEFCotYKvZg4tKzCgAAAEAAAAGbUCPsjKRVHohemn/JVWkwBAAAAAA==@comcast.net><C6999317-D7E7-4C28-9F98-B7D7BA993557@mindspring.com><ed3b22350905052122j141bf70dp2e9d170aabb240b9@mail.gmail.com>
	<e0b6d4a01193b.4a01d75d@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <013401c9ce82$397e0400$ac7a0c00$@com>

Thanks for the advice guys! I'll definitely be doing a full service of the
brakes based on the suggestions given. For some reason it didn't occur to me
that a locking up problem might be caused by a need to service the brakes -
it just seemed like an odd problem to me that I didn't know what to make of.

 

But believe me - with experiencing this several times, I'm not going to be
taking any chances! I already have been distancing myself from other cars to
allow extra stopping room. But I'll be working on this over the weekend.
I'll have to let you all know how it turns out. :)

 

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
jdettori at optonline.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 11:31 AM
To: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com
Subject: Re: [CM] brakes locking up

 

Jeff,

 

Brakes are too important to guess about, especially in 40+ year-old drums.
My 2 cents:

1. Rebuild your brakes at all 4 wheels or have it done, making sure you:

    - Replace the wheel cylinders; they're cheap and give you peace of mind

    - Examine the hoses / lines.  If worn, cracked, hard/brittle, or really
soft replace them.

      Again, cheap peace of mind

    - Examine the shoes; if worn down or you don't know when they were
replaced last, replace.
      Again, cheap peace of mind

    - Examine the drums, resurface / replace as required

 2. Grease / repack the wheel bearings, replacing as needed.  This is often
over-looked; people

     forget that ~52% of the weight of your Mustang is riding on two 6" long
spindles and the bearings in a holder (I think it's called a "race") that
rides on it.  

3.  Examine the brake lines, particularly at bends, and the terminal ends.

4.  Test the master cylinder; it either works or it doesn't 

 

Some may regard this as "extreme", and only focus on the the problem at
hand.  But last year, as I got off the expressway onto a highway with
traffic lights, doing about 40mph in my 70 Boss 302, I had the scare of my
life when I touched the brakes, finding the rears locking up and skidding to
a stop that narrowly avoiding crashing into the car just 5 car lengths ahead
of me.  I replaced the entire braking system (except hard lines front
caliphers, the master cylinder and power booster), and couldn't be happier
now.  My problem was 2 bad wheel cylinders and 2 soft spongy hoses.  It
works perfectly now.

 

Best Regards,

John    

 


----- Original Message -----
From: Mike H 
Date: Wednesday, May 6, 2009 12:22 am
Subject: Re: [CM] brakes locking up
To: John Dettori 

> I would say open it up and take a look regardless, especially if 
> you haven't
> done so in a while, especially since they are drums. If the 
> shoes are worn
> down to the rivets they can grab, which may be the locking up 
> you are
> experiencing...guess how I know that one!!! ;> my $0.02.
> 
> On Tue, May 5, 2009 at 6:17 AM, AJ Derrick 
> wrote:
> 
> > Looks like we've deduced it is fluid of some type...
> >
> >
> > If it still does it after a good run, (to dry out
> > mere water moisture) then it must be brake fluid or rear diff 
> oil. If
> > that's the case, time to
> > open it up and take a look.
> >
> >
> >
> > AJ Derrick
> > '95 GT
> > '66 Restomod 289 4V
> >
> >
> >
> > On May 5, 2009, at 7:54 AM, Mike Rogers wrote:
> >
> > I had the same problem with my 70 Mach I. Discovered the 
> previous> owners did not bleed the brakes. Water had caused 
> gunk/mud to accumulate in
> > the rear cylinders which caused them to lock and not release. 
> Replaced the
> > cylinders and bleed the lines. Problem solved.
> >
> >
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > *From:* classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [
> > mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca<CLASSIC-
> mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca>]
> > *On Behalf Of *Jeff Shanholtz
> > *Sent:* Monday, May 04, 2009 11:02 PM
> > *To:* rogers0117 at comcast.net
> > *Subject:* [CM] brakes locking up
> >
> >
> >
> > Lately I've noticed that my brakes seem especially prone to 
> locking up,
> > causing a momentary skid until I let off. It's happened 
> several times in the
> > last few weeks. It happens when I apply more force than usual, 
> but certainly
> > not an excessive amount.
> >
> >
> >
> > Any idea why this might be happening? I haven't done any brake work
> > recently. I have 4 wheel drums. It's a 66 coupe.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classic-mustangs mailing list
> > Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> > http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> >
> > Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classic-mustangs mailing list
> > Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> > http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> >
> > Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> >
> >
> 

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From rick at adc.com  Thu May  7 12:19:44 2009
From: rick at adc.com (Rick Larson)
Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 10:19:44 -0500
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
Message-ID: <4A02FC10.3050201@adc.com>

 > Heck, the first thing I do when I start restoring a car (even before 
the engine) is to go thru the brakes.

Me too.  When I got my 66 out of storage, the first thing was to get the 
brakes working. 

If you plan to keep the 4 wheel drums, this is a great time to add a 
dual reservoir master cylinder.

I converted to front discs using Granada bits but getting the brakes in 
top shape should be the top priority.

rick



From mustangpaul at gmail.com  Thu May  7 12:38:32 2009
From: mustangpaul at gmail.com (Paul Sawyer)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 10:38:32 -0500
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
In-Reply-To: <4A02FC10.3050201@adc.com>
References: <4A02FC10.3050201@adc.com>
Message-ID: <929e6daa0905070838u10fb08e3kd4b2f6064a9af6f5@mail.gmail.com>

I agree.  Unless you are showing in concourse, get rid of the "Suicide
Single" reservoir and get a dual.

--P

On Thu, May 7, 2009 at 10:19 AM, Rick Larson <rick at adc.com> wrote:

>  > Heck, the first thing I do when I start restoring a car (even before
> the engine) is to go thru the brakes.
>
> Me too.  When I got my 66 out of storage, the first thing was to get the
> brakes working.
>
> If you plan to keep the 4 wheel drums, this is a great time to add a
> dual reservoir master cylinder.
>
> I converted to front discs using Granada bits but getting the brakes in
> top shape should be the top priority.
>
> rick
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/<http://sauce.donair.org/%7Ecm/>
>
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From nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net  Thu May  7 13:49:57 2009
From: nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net (nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 16:49:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
Message-ID: <484301919.2996751241714997733.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I just got a 351W and C6 trans to replace my 289 & C4 in my 1968 Mustang (which runs fine, I just want a bigger engine & trans & got a great deal on them). From what I understand, the engine and transmission (of which I will be rebuilding myself) came from a 1980's Lincoln. The casing # under the water pump?looks like E0AE-6059-AA. I couldn't find an exact match online anywhere but if I go by what I've read so far about the series of numbers, E0AE is a 1980 Full-size Ford. I don't know what the other numbers denote. Does anyone have any information on this or can direct me?to where I can find this information? It will be helpful when getting parts for it for the build project. ?Thanks. 

Julie Austad 
Emerald City Mustangs 
425-353-1535 
425-418-9217 
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From W427 at comcast.net  Thu May  7 14:47:40 2009
From: W427 at comcast.net (David)
Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 10:47:40 -0700
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
In-Reply-To: <484301919.2996751241714997733.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <484301919.2996751241714997733.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A031EBC.2060601@comcast.net>

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From nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net  Thu May  7 15:20:26 2009
From: nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net (nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 18:20:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
In-Reply-To: <988117127.3027801241720312470.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <524970320.3028601241720426106.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Thanks, David. Yes, my C4 was rebuilt about 2 years ago. It's just that these two pieces came as a set for $500.00, which was a deal I just couldn't pass up. Wasn't sure if the torque difference between a 289 & 351W would be enough to warrant using the larger transmission. I'll check out the numbers you speak of when I get home from work later tonight.? I may be writing back if I can't get a positive ID. From what the fellow said that I bought it from, it had come out of a 1980's Lincoln that had been in an accident. He may have been mistaken about the model of car it came out of. 

Julie Austad 
Emerald City Mustangs 
425-353-1535 
425-418-9217 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David" <W427 at comcast.net> 
To: "Julie Austad" <nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net> 
Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2009 10:47:40 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [CM] 351W casting codes 

The number you are looking for is just above the oil pan rail on the lower right (passenger) side of the block - behind the starter.? That is the block casting number.? The casting date moves from year to year but is usually close the the block number.? Suffice it to say, it's an early '80's engine (if the block number verifies that), but not from a Lincoln, as Lincolns went directly from 400/460 engines to 302/5.0 in 1981 IIRC.? Also, all Fords with few exceptions went to AOD transmissions in 1980.? It's either a mismatch, or a very early '80's LTD/Marquis/pickup/van combo.? Your gaskets and parts would be the same through those years - just pick a year to tell the parts guy.? If your C4 is still in good shape, I would stick with that (it will bolt right up using the 289 converter, flexplate, blockplate, starter, etc.) as it's much lighter and more efficient (better accel and mileage), plenty strong for the 351, and there are no swap headaches to deal with. 

David 


nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net wrote: 


I just got a 351W and C6 trans to replace my 289 & C4 in my 1968 Mustang (which runs fine, I just want a bigger engine & trans & got a great deal on them). From what I understand, the engine and transmission (of which I will be rebuilding myself) came from a 1980's Lincoln. The casing # under the water pump?looks like E0AE-6059-AA. I couldn't find an exact match online anywhere but if I go by what I've read so far about the series of numbers, E0AE is a 1980 Full-size Ford. I don't know what the other numbers denote. Does anyone have any information on this or can direct me?to where I can find this information? It will be helpful when getting parts for it for the build project. ?Thanks. 

Julie Austad 
Emerald City Mustangs 
425-353-1535 
425-418-9217 
_______________________________________________ Classic-mustangs mailing list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
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From keven at ti.com  Thu May  7 15:47:32 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 13:47:32 -0500
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
In-Reply-To: <524970320.3028601241720426106.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <988117127.3027801241720312470.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<524970320.3028601241720426106.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA570C22B4A@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

I would second David's recommendation.  A C4 is enough for a pretty hefty 351W unless you are drag racing with slicks.  Drag racing with slicks is extremely hard on drive trains, so I would recommend a C6 for that particular task.

I remember Hot Rod did a thing a while back comparing them and said that the parasitic loss for a C4 was ~25 hp and a C6 was nearly ~50 hp!

A C4 is a great tranny for a slush box ;-)  Be sure to adjust your vacuum modulator for good shift points.  It's a much sportier drive that way.  Sell the C6 and get some money back.

Keven
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From ckelly at raceabilene.com  Thu May  7 17:25:53 2009
From: ckelly at raceabilene.com (raceabilene)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 15:25:53 -0500
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
In-Reply-To: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA570C22B4A@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
References: <988117127.3027801241720312470.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<524970320.3028601241720426106.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA570C22B4A@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <F367496A-18BA-450A-A09C-FF57D54A161B@raceabilene.com>

I'm running nearly 500 up through a C4 with no issues. You'll not have  
a problem and if you step it up, I can give you a list for 400 hp C4  
easy cheap.

The casting number you listed would be specific to the front cover.  
The middle digits designate the part - 6015 is an engine block for  
example.  Very few parts -if any- will be dependant on one of those  
numbers, typically only if you were buying a part directly from Ford.  
The cast number by the starter will give you a general idea of the  
engine, there should also be a date code of 3 or 4 characters close  
by.  There will also be machining date codes on some of the machined  
surfaces of the block. That would be the only specific dating of the  
engine.  You would see those with the engine disassembled.  You might  
also look for a partial VIN on the rear of the cylinder banks, usually  
left side but could be either.

If a casting doesn't get revised, it can carry the same number for  
many years. 1965 rev bellhousings were used up to around 1970. And,  
what you see is a CASTING number only, it is not the part number -  
they are different.

351w parts are common to the motors, we can help zero in on anything  
you might need.  Just ask away.  What folks here don't know, they can  
make up...I mean look up ;)

On May 7, 2009, at 1:47 PM, "Coates, Keven" <keven at ti.com> wrote:

> I would second David?s recommendation.  A C4 is enough for a pretty  
> hefty 351W unless you are drag racing with slicks.  Drag racing with 
>  slicks is extremely hard on drive trains, so I would recommend a C6 
>  for that particular task.
>
>
>
> I remember Hot Rod did a thing a while back comparing them and said  
> that the parasitic loss for a C4 was ~25 hp and a C6 was nearly ~50  
> hp!
>
>
>
> A C4 is a great tranny for a slush box ;-)  Be sure to adjust your  
> vacuum modulator for good shift points.  It?s a much sportier drive  
> that way.  Sell the C6 and get some money back.
>
>
>
> Keven
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
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From mkupec at blueovalcorral.com  Thu May  7 18:23:05 2009
From: mkupec at blueovalcorral.com (Michael J. Kupec)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 17:23:05 -0400
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
In-Reply-To: <484301919.2996751241714997733.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <484301919.2996751241714997733.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C7D28C3155E64F2BA43992C2F74465A8@thunkpudborg>

FWIW: A 351W bolted to a C6 is considerably longer than bolting the 351W to
a C4!   The 351W is a direct swap for the 289 if you leave the C4 where it
currently is (still in the car!).  If you go with the C6, you'll need to fab
a crossmember mount and have the driveshaft shortened. Fabing the
crossmember is a real PITA.
 
Only other concern with the 351W is, if the trans had just a stock rebuild,
you'll want to go back into it and add a shift improver kit. You want one
that boosts the acccumulator pressure and add firmness to the shifts, the
torque of the 351W will tear up a stick C4, especially with the wimpy stock
shift pattern they have programmed into it. The addition of a external
cooler will help also. We all know you're going to want to get into it once
in a while and the cooler is worth the added insurance.
 
Put the C6 up for sale for about $250 and I'm sure you'll sell it.  That's
what I did with the C6 I pulled off the 351W I installed in my early Bronco.

 
Michael J. Kupec
mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
http://www.blueovalcorral.com <http://www.blueovalcorral.com/> 

Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints! 


  _____  

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 12:50 PM
To: Michael J. Kupec
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes


I just got a 351W and C6 trans to replace my 289 & C4 in my 1968 Mustang
(which runs fine, I just want a bigger engine & trans & got a great deal on
them). From what I understand, the engine and transmission (of which I will
be rebuilding myself) came from a 1980's Lincoln. The casing # under the
water pump looks like E0AE-6059-AA. I couldn't find an exact match online
anywhere but if I go by what I've read so far about the series of numbers,
E0AE is a 1980 Full-size Ford. I don't know what the other numbers denote.
Does anyone have any information on this or can direct me to where I can
find this information? It will be helpful when getting parts for it for the
build project.  Thanks.

Julie Austad
Emerald City Mustangs
425-353-1535
425-418-9217


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From nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net  Thu May  7 19:19:49 2009
From: nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net (nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 22:19:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
In-Reply-To: <1383621288.3116351241734583433.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <850205241.3117361241734789241.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Okay, so let me get this straight, I can keep the recently rebuilt C4 in the car. It is stock, but has a shift kit that was put in it during the rebuild, I am also putting a 9-inch rear-end in it. I thought that might require a different driveshaft, which I think I also have access to from the same car I'm getting the 9-inch out of. Don't use the C6 at all, sell it for around $250.00. I also have the torque converter for it. Does that go with the C6 in the same sail or sell separately? 



Also, I'm going to look for a couple of different set of numbers, different than what I came up with already. The cast number by the starter will be the one I want to find as it will give a general idea of the age of the engine. There should also be a date code of 3 or 4 characters close by. ?There will also be matching date codes on some of the machined surfaces of the block. That would be the only specific dating of the engine.??I need to have the engine disassembled to see them (not sure how far disassembled though). ?There may be a partial VIN on the rear of the cylinder banks, usually found on the left side but could be either. 



And lastly, yes I am interested in achieving a naturally-aspirated 500hp on this car. I really don't intend to race it. It's that darn bragging rights thing. You boys aren't the only ones who love that stuff. If there is a? list for 400 hp C4 easy cheap, I am interested in that as well. 



This will be my first engine rebuild. The engine is on a stand in my garage, the starter and the water pump are already off of it. I was planning on pulling off the valve covers? & if things go well, maybe removing the heads and seeing what kind of shape things are in. Not sure exactly when the engine was taken out of service & stored . 


Julie Austad 
Emerald City Mustangs 
425-353-1535 
425-418-9217 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael J. Kupec" <mkupec at blueovalcorral.com> 
To: "Julie Austad" <nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net> 
Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2009 2:23:05 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [CM] 351W casting codes 


FWIW: A 351W bolted to a C6 is considerably longer than bolting the 351W to a C4!?? The 351W is a direct swap for the 289 if you leave the C4 where it currently is (still in the car!).? If you go with the C6, you'll need to fab a crossmember mount and have the driveshaft shortened. Fabing the crossmember is a real PITA. 

Only other concern with the 351W is, if the trans had just a stock rebuild, you'll want to go back into it and add a shift improver kit. You want one that boosts the acccumulator pressure and add firmness to the shifts, the torque of the 351W will tear up a stick C4, especially with the wimpy stock shift pattern they have programmed into it. The addition of a external cooler will help also. We all know you're going to want to get into it once in a while and the cooler is worth the added insurance. 

Put the C6 up for sale for about $250 and I'm sure you'll sell it.? That's what I did with the C6 I pulled off the 351W I installed in my early Bronco. 



Michael J. Kupec 
mkupec at blueovalcorral.com 
http://www.blueovalcorral.com 

Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints! 




From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net 
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 12:50 PM 
To: Michael J. Kupec 
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes 



I just got a 351W and C6 trans to replace my 289 & C4 in my 1968 Mustang (which runs fine, I just want a bigger engine & trans & got a great deal on them). From what I understand, the engine and transmission (of which I will be rebuilding myself) came from a 1980's Lincoln. The casing # under the water pump?looks like E0AE-6059-AA. I couldn't find an exact match online anywhere but if I go by what I've read so far about the series of numbers, E0AE is a 1980 Full-size Ford. I don't know what the other numbers denote. Does anyone have any information on this or can direct me?to where I can find this information? It will be helpful when getting parts for it for the build project. ?Thanks. 

Julie Austad 
Emerald City Mustangs 
425-353-1535 
425-418-9217 

_______________________________________________ Classic-mustangs mailing list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
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From derekpezzarello at hotmail.com  Thu May  7 19:17:00 2009
From: derekpezzarello at hotmail.com (Derek Pezzarello)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 19:17:00 -0300
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
In-Reply-To: <484301919.2996751241714997733.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <484301919.2996751241714997733.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU144-W326FD091FE43D4B150CF06BE670@phx.gbl>


HI      I WOULD BORE YOUR 289.,, AND PUT FLAT TOP PISTONS, AND CAM IT UP AND PUT 650 CFM CARB, YOUR 289 HAS MORE POWER STOCK THEN THE 351 WINDSOR, YOU COULD GET CLOSE TO 300 HP OUT OF THE 289 AND BOLT THE C6 TO IT AND I ASSUME THE 289 IS CORRECT FOR YOUR CAR AND HANG ON  TO YOUR C4 UNLESS YOU ARE GOING TO STROKE THE 351 I WOULD DO THE 289. I HAVE 400HP 69 MACH1AND THE NEED FOR SPEED IS NICE PUT A SET OF 355 GEARS WILL REALLY HELP YOUR CAUSE FOR POWER YOUR CAR WILL JUST CHEW UP THE PAVEMENT  LOTS OF LUCK  COBRA 351
 


Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 16:49:57 +0000
From: nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
To: derekpezzarello at hotmail.com




I just got a 351W and C6 trans to replace my 289 & C4 in my 1968 Mustang (which runs fine, I just want a bigger engine & trans & got a great deal on them). From what I understand, the engine and transmission (of which I will be rebuilding myself) came from a 1980's Lincoln. The casing # under the water pump looks like E0AE-6059-AA. I couldn't find an exact match online anywhere but if I go by what I've read so far about the series of numbers, E0AE is a 1980 Full-size Ford. I don't know what the other numbers denote. Does anyone have any information on this or can direct me to where I can find this information? It will be helpful when getting parts for it for the build project.  Thanks.

Julie Austad
Emerald City Mustangs
425-353-1535
425-418-9217

_________________________________________________________________
Internet explorer 8 lets you browse the web faster.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9655582
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From mkupec at blueovalcorral.com  Thu May  7 19:45:19 2009
From: mkupec at blueovalcorral.com (Michael J. Kupec)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 18:45:19 -0400
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
In-Reply-To: <BLU144-W326FD091FE43D4B150CF06BE670@phx.gbl>
References: <484301919.2996751241714997733.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<BLU144-W326FD091FE43D4B150CF06BE670@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <3BF944EC807C4D3CA4553461908692DA@thunkpudborg>

Put the C6 behind the 289?!!!   Why?  
 
The C6 is great for Grandpop's old landbarge or for your mud-sliging 4X4,
but the extra HP it'll take to spin it behind the 289 cancels all the extra
HP improvements you'll gain building the 289. 
 
A nicely built C4 is a better choice for the 351W or even a stroked 289.
The stock rebuild you have will work, but if you're trying to push 500HP and
have not done the required enhancements to the C4, you'll easily trash the
transsmission.  Enhancements would include the hardened input shaft, heavy
duty low/reverse band (kevlar coating even better), forward clutch upgrade
form 5 friction plates to 6, etc...  To get a real idea, just look here:
http://www.broaderperformance.com/c4_transmission_parts.htm
 
After a typical rebuild to handle the 500Hp motor, about the only thing that
could improve a C4 would be a cast iron case! 
 
Michael J. Kupec
mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
http://www.blueovalcorral.com <http://www.blueovalcorral.com/> 

I work for the fun of it.
    It sure ain't for the pay! 

 
 


  _____  

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Derek
Pezzarello
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 6:17 PM
To: Michael J. Kupec
Subject: Re: [CM] 351W casting codes


HI      I WOULD BORE YOUR 289.,, AND PUT FLAT TOP PISTONS, AND CAM IT UP AND
PUT 650 CFM CARB, YOUR 289 HAS MORE POWER STOCK THEN THE 351 WINDSOR, YOU
COULD GET CLOSE TO 300 HP OUT OF THE 289 AND BOLT THE C6 TO IT AND I ASSUME
THE 289 IS CORRECT FOR YOUR CAR AND HANG ON  TO YOUR C4 UNLESS YOU ARE GOING
TO STROKE THE 351 I WOULD DO THE 289. I HAVE 400HP 69 MACH1AND THE NEED FOR
SPEED IS NICE PUT A SET OF 355 GEARS WILL REALLY HELP YOUR CAUSE FOR POWER
YOUR CAR WILL JUST CHEW UP THE PAVEMENT  LOTS OF LUCK  COBRA 351
 

  _____  

Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 16:49:57 +0000
From: nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
To: derekpezzarello at hotmail.com


I just got a 351W and C6 trans to replace my 289 & C4 in my 1968 Mustang
(which runs fine, I just want a bigger engine & trans & got a great deal on
them). From what I understand, the engine and transmission (of which I will
be rebuilding myself) came from a 1980's Lincoln. The casing # under the
water pump looks like E0AE-6059-AA. I couldn't find an exact match online
anywhere but if I go by what I've read so far about the series of numbers,
E0AE is a 1980 Full-size Ford. I don't know what the other numbers denote.
Does anyone have any information on this or can direct me to where I can
find this information? It will be helpful when getting parts for it for the
build project.  Thanks.

Julie Austad
Emerald City Mustangs
425-353-1535
425-418-9217


  _____  

Internet Explorer 8 makes surfing easier. Get it now!
<http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9655264> 

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From nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net  Thu May  7 19:47:10 2009
From: nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net (nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 22:47:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
In-Reply-To: <3BF944EC807C4D3CA4553461908692DA@thunkpudborg>
Message-ID: <2070457337.3126621241736430333.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

No, the C6 and the 351W came as a matched set. The rebuilt 289 has a rebuilt C4. 

Julie Austad 
Emerald City Mustangs 
425-353-1535 
425-418-9217 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael J. Kupec" <mkupec at blueovalcorral.com> 
To: "Julie Austad" <nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net> 
Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2009 3:45:19 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [CM] 351W casting codes 


Put the C6 behind the 289?!!!?? Why?? 

The C6 is great for Grandpop's old landbarge or for your mud-sliging 4X4, but the extra HP it'll take to spin it behind the 289 cancels all the extra HP improvements you'll gain building the 289. 

A nicely built C4 is a better choice for the 351W or even a stroked 289.? The stock rebuild you have will work, but if you're trying to push 500HP and have not done the required enhancements to the C4, you'll easily trash the transsmission.? Enhancements would include the hardened input shaft, heavy duty low/reverse band (kevlar coating even better), forward clutch upgrade form 5 friction plates to 6, etc...? To get a real idea, just look here: 
http://www.broaderperformance.com/c4_transmission_parts.htm 

After a typical rebuild to handle the 500Hp motor, about the only thing that could improve a C4 would be?a cast iron case! 



Michael J. Kupec 
mkupec at blueovalcorral.com 
http://www.blueovalcorral.com 

I work for the fun of it. 
??? It sure ain't for the pay! 






From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Derek Pezzarello 
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 6:17 PM 
To: Michael J. Kupec 
Subject: Re: [CM] 351W casting codes 


HI????? I WOULD BORE YOUR 289.,, AND PUT FLAT TOP PISTONS, AND CAM IT UP AND PUT?650 CFM CARB, YOUR 289 HAS MORE POWER STOCK THEN THE 351 WINDSOR, YOU COULD GET CLOSE TO 300 HP OUT OF THE 289 AND BOLT THE C6 TO IT AND I ASSUME THE 289 IS CORRECT FOR YOUR CAR AND HANG ON? TO YOUR C4 UNLESS YOU ARE GOING TO STROKE THE 351 I WOULD DO THE 289. I HAVE 400HP 69 MACH1AND THE NEED FOR SPEED IS NICE?PUT A SET OF 355 GEARS WILL REALLY HELP YOUR CAUSE FOR POWER YOUR CAR WILL JUST CHEW UP THE PAVEMENT??LOTS OF LUCK? COBRA 351 
? 

Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 16:49:57 +0000 
From: nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net 
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes 
To: derekpezzarello at hotmail.com 


I just got a 351W and C6 trans to replace my 289 & C4 in my 1968 Mustang (which runs fine, I just want a bigger engine & trans & got a great deal on them). From what I understand, the engine and transmission (of which I will be rebuilding myself) came from a 1980's Lincoln. The casing # under the water pump?looks like E0AE-6059-AA. I couldn't find an exact match online anywhere but if I go by what I've read so far about the series of numbers, E0AE is a 1980 Full-size Ford. I don't know what the other numbers denote. Does anyone have any information on this or can direct me?to where I can find this information? It will be helpful when getting parts for it for the build project. ?Thanks. 

Julie Austad 
Emerald City Mustangs 
425-353-1535 
425-418-9217 


Internet Explorer 8 makes surfing easier. Get it now! 
_______________________________________________ Classic-mustangs mailing list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
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From ckelly at raceabilene.com  Thu May  7 22:05:50 2009
From: ckelly at raceabilene.com (raceabilene)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 20:05:50 -0500
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
In-Reply-To: <2070457337.3126621241736430333.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2070457337.3126621241736430333.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1ACE10FC-7D58-4EB0-B093-082DDB5A1DB8@raceabilene.com>

What to watch for here - if the C4 has a small bell ( a case fill  
should be a small bell ) you will need the 289 motor plate, flex plate  
and a C4 10.5" bolt patten converter to bolt to yhe 351.  The  
converter with the 289 should work.  The c6 parts can to with the  
trans if you like.

9" - you should be able to use the stock shaft with an FRPP conversion  
joint. You will possibly need a long yoke for the 9" pinion.

I'd trim the MSG but I,m at a ball game on my iPhone
On May 7, 2009, at 5:47 PM, nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net wrote:

> No, the C6 and the 351W came as a matched set. The rebuilt 289 has a  
> rebuilt C4.
>
> Julie Austad
> Emerald City Mustangs
> 425-353-1535
> 425-418-9217
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael J. Kupec" <mkupec at blueovalcorral.com>
> To: "Julie Austad" <nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2009 3:45:19 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: [CM] 351W casting codes
>
> Put the C6 behind the 289?!!!   Why?
>
> The C6 is great for Grandpop's old landbarge or for your mud-sliging  
> 4X4, but the extra HP it'll take to spin it behind the 289 cancels  
> all the extra HP improvements you'll gain building the 289.
>
> A nicely built C4 is a better choice for the 351W or even a stroked  
> 289.  The stock rebuild you have will work, but if you're trying to  
> push 500HP and have not done the required enhancements to the C4,  
> you'll easily trash the transsmission.  Enhancements would include  
> the hardened input shaft, heavy duty low/reverse band (kevlar  
> coating even better), forward clutch upgrade form 5 friction plates  
> to 6, etc...  To get a real idea, just look here:
> http://www.broaderperformance.com/c4_transmission_parts.htm
>
> After a typical rebuild to handle the 500Hp motor, about the only  
> thing that could improve a C4 would be a cast iron case!
>
> Michael J. Kupec
> mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
> http://www.blueovalcorral.com
>
> I work for the fun of it.
>     It sure ain't for the pay!
>
>
>
>
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca 
> ] On Behalf Of Derek Pezzarello
> Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 6:17 PM
> To: Michael J. Kupec
> Subject: Re: [CM] 351W casting codes
>
> HI      I WOULD BORE YOUR 289.,, AND PUT FLAT TOP PISTONS, AND CAM  
> IT UP AND PUT 650 CFM CARB, YOUR 289 HAS MORE POWER STOCK THEN THE  
> 351 WINDSOR, YOU COULD GET CLOSE TO 300 HP OUT OF THE 289 AND BOLT  
> THE C6 TO IT AND I ASSUME THE 289 IS CORRECT FOR YOUR CAR AND HANG  
> ON  TO YOUR C4 UNLESS YOU ARE GOING TO STROKE THE 351 I WOULD DO THE  
> 289. I HAVE 400HP 69 MACH1AND THE NEED FOR SPEED IS NICE PUT A SET  
> OF 355 GEARS WILL REALLY HELP YOUR CAUSE FOR POWER YOUR CAR WILL  
> JUST CHEW UP THE PAVEMENT  LOTS OF LUCK  COBRA 351
>
> Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 16:49:57 +0000
> From: nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net
> Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
> To: derekpezzarello at hotmail.com
>
> I just got a 351W and C6 trans to replace my 289 & C4 in my 1968  
> Mustang (which runs fine, I just want a bigger engine & trans & got  
> a great deal on them). From what I understand, the engine and  
> transmission (of which I will be rebuilding myself) came from a  
> 1980's Lincoln. The casing # under the water pump looks like  
> E0AE-6059-AA. I couldn't find an exact match online anywhere but if  
> I go by what I've read so far about the series of numbers, E0AE is a  
> 1980 Full-size Ford. I don't know what the other numbers denote.  
> Does anyone have any information on this or can direct me to where I  
> can find this information? It will be helpful when getting parts for  
> it for the build project.  Thanks.
>
> Julie Austad
> Emerald City Mustangs
> 425-353-1535
> 425-418-9217
>
> Internet Explorer 8 makes surfing easier. Get it now!
>
> _______________________________________________ Classic-mustangs  
> mailing list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs 
>  Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
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From mkupec at blueovalcorral.com  Thu May  7 23:26:38 2009
From: mkupec at blueovalcorral.com (Michael J. Kupec)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 22:26:38 -0400
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
In-Reply-To: <2070457337.3126621241736430333.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <3BF944EC807C4D3CA4553461908692DA@thunkpudborg>
	<2070457337.3126621241736430333.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B4C2C706A6204679AD4A82A2B084C5CE@thunkpudborg>

Was responding to Derek's comment about bolting the C6 up to a built 289.  
 

Michael J. Kupec
mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
http://www.blueovalcorral.com <http://www.blueovalcorral.com/> 

Everything I say is fully substantiated by my own opinion! 

  _____  

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 6:47 PM
To: Michael J. Kupec
Subject: Re: [CM] 351W casting codes


No, the C6 and the 351W came as a matched set. The rebuilt 289 has a rebuilt
C4.

Julie Austad
Emerald City Mustangs
425-353-1535
425-418-9217

----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael J. Kupec" <mkupec at blueovalcorral.com>
To: "Julie Austad" <nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2009 3:45:19 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [CM] 351W casting codes


Put the C6 behind the 289?!!!   Why?  
 
The C6 is great for Grandpop's old landbarge or for your mud-sliging 4X4,
but the extra HP it'll take to spin it behind the 289 cancels all the extra
HP improvements you'll gain building the 289. 
 
A nicely built C4 is a better choice for the 351W or even a stroked 289.
The stock rebuild you have will work, but if you're trying to push 500HP and
have not done the required enhancements to the C4, you'll easily trash the
transsmission.  Enhancements would include the hardened input shaft, heavy
duty low/reverse band (kevlar coating even better), forward clutch upgrade
form 5 friction plates to 6, etc...  To get a real idea, just look here:
http://www.broaderperformance.com/c4_transmission_parts.htm
 
After a typical rebuild to handle the 500Hp motor, about the only thing that
could improve a C4 would be a cast iron case! 
 
Michael J. Kupec
mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
http://www.blueovalcorral.com <http://www.blueovalcorral.com/> 

I work for the fun of it.
    It sure ain't for the pay! 

 
 


  _____  

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Derek
Pezzarello
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 6:17 PM
To: Michael J. Kupec
Subject: Re: [CM] 351W casting codes


HI      I WOULD BORE YOUR 289.,, AND PUT FLAT TOP PISTONS, AND CAM IT UP AND
PUT 650 CFM CARB, YOUR 289 HAS MORE POWER STOCK THEN THE 351 WINDSOR, YOU
COULD GET CLOSE TO 300 HP OUT OF THE 289 AND BOLT THE C6 TO IT AND I ASSUME
THE 289 IS CORRECT FOR YOUR CAR AND HANG ON  TO YOUR C4 UNLESS YOU ARE GOING
TO STROKE THE 351 I WOULD DO THE 289. I HAVE 400HP 69 MACH1AND THE NEED FOR
SPEED IS NICE PUT A SET OF 355 GEARS WILL REALLY HELP YOUR CAUSE FOR POWER
YOUR CAR WILL JUST CHEW UP THE PAVEMENT  LOTS OF LUCK  COBRA 351
 

  _____  

Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 16:49:57 +0000
From: nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
To: derekpezzarello at hotmail.com


I just got a 351W and C6 trans to replace my 289 & C4 in my 1968 Mustang
(which runs fine, I just want a bigger engine & trans & got a great deal on
them). From what I understand, the engine and transmission (of which I will
be rebuilding myself) came from a 1980's Lincoln. The casing # under the
water pump looks like E0AE-6059-AA. I couldn't find an exact match online
anywhere but if I go by what I've read so far about the series of numbers,
E0AE is a 1980 Full-size Ford. I don't know what the other numbers denote.
Does anyone have any information on this or can direct me to where I can
find this information? It will be helpful when getting parts for it for the
build project.  Thanks.

Julie Austad
Emerald City Mustangs
425-353-1535
425-418-9217


  _____  

Internet Explorer 8 makes surfing easier. Get it now!
<http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9655264> 


_______________________________________________ Classic-mustangs mailing
list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs Visit the
Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/ 

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From W427 at comcast.net  Fri May  8 00:19:40 2009
From: W427 at comcast.net (David)
Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 20:19:40 -0700
Subject: [CM] 351W casting codes
In-Reply-To: <850205241.3117361241734789241.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <850205241.3117361241734789241.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A03A4CC.508@comcast.net>

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From ckelly at raceabilene.com  Fri May  8 01:41:08 2009
From: ckelly at raceabilene.com (Chris Kelly)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 23:41:08 -0500
Subject: [CM] 500HP 351W
In-Reply-To: <850205241.3117361241734789241.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1383621288.3116351241734583433.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<850205241.3117361241734789241.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <007101c9cf97$359f8d70$a0dea850$@com>

Sing it, sister!

Alrighty then, now we?re getting somewhere.

 

Not sure how much ?hands on? you want to do here, so I?ll just run with this and you can clarify as you like.  Probably TMI, but what the hey?

 

Without knowing the condition of the W and your whole plan as it may be, consider a stroker build to get closer to your goals with a little less stress on the components.  There are numerous kits available.  A 393 is probably the easiest ? that uses a 3.85 stroke 351W bearing crank, a set of 351W length rods and a set of the appropriate 302 pistons (piston crown choice might be modified by cylinder head choice).  There are also a lot of good 408 CID kits available.  The main thing to have handy is a trusted machine shop.  Cylinder bore finish and good machining for decking, balancing, etc is critical to helping you create a powerful, reliable engine.  

This guy can help with stroker kits http://mmeracing.com/ and there are others.  Mark isn?t cheap, but you?ll get quality parts.  Another benefit from building extra displacement into the engine is that you don?t have to spin the motor as hard to make the power and that saves wear and tear along with protecting your investment.  

 

A good shop can advise you on clearances ? things like the importance of having the pistons on the deck, clearances on the crank, bore clearance and finish to match the selected rings, etc.  A good set of moly rings with the proper wall finish in a clean engine will break in and seat in a matter of minutes.  Taking care of the details is where the power and reliability can be found.  

 

Scat and Eagle can also supply kits.  Ask about balancing and see if you can get a kit with a crank designed for the right bob weight.  You will hear stuff like ?oh, just take a 400 crank and cut it down, it?ll fit no problem?  and it will ? after you spend nearly $1000 to modify the crank and balance it to the other components.  Source stuff meant to work together ? it?s cheaper in the long run.  Example - My 351C uses a stock crank that is zero balanced.  I used a friend?s balancer and his advice.  Took 8 hours of work and four pieces of tungsten at $40 a pop.  If I had to just pay for the work, It would have been about $500 for the balancing.  Plus the crank turning.  Almost what a new steel crank would have cost.  Figure the angles so you don?t get blindsided by unexpected costs.

 

There?s a billion cylinder heads available ? Edelbrock Victor series is one good set of components, Trick Flow produces some excellent cylinder heads for Ford engines.  

 

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/heads/ford_sb_victor_jr.shtml

http://www.trickflow.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400098+4294925232+301941+4294840125+115+4294867028 <http://www.trickflow.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400098+4294925232+301941+4294840125+115+4294867028&autoview=sku> &autoview=sku

 

Cam selection will be dictated by fuel and compression, which is controlled by stroke, pistons design and cylinder head design and chamber volume.  Do your research, talk to the various companies about your goals and learn what you can ? before you spend a dime.  After some time in the ?library?, you?ll have a plan and then you just work the plan and bada-bing, you?re puttin? the fear in all the boys LOL.  

 

For the trans, check with Broader Performance http://broaderperformance.com/   he can sell you a kit to upgrade the C4 to the 500 HP level. If you don?t want to go through the trans yourself, he can supply a trans ready to go.  

 

If the trans is a pre 1970, you will want to change some parts like the input shaft and front drum to get better parts.  You might also consider sourcing a 1970+ model trans ? the other parts will swap in, but post 70 transmissions have all the performance parts available and can be easily upgraded to 500+ HP level.  

 

After all that, you will want to pick a converter company that can provide you with a performance converter that matches your engine build and car setup.  A converter can make or break the entire setup in the car.  A slight tweak of 200 RPM on my converter was good for a tenth in the 1/8 mile ? that?s like 30 or so free HP.  

 

Building a performance engine is an enjoyable and satisfying activity.  Good luck and be sure to have fun.  

 

=====================================
 Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
 http://raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
          Merkel, Texas
             Member:
 International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
      Falcon Club of America
=====================================

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 5:20 PM
To: Chris Kelly
Cc: Tom Wynne
Subject: Re: [CM] 351W casting codes

 

.

 

And lastly, yes I am interested in achieving a naturally-aspirated 500hp on this car. I really don't intend to race it. It's that darn bragging rights thing. You boys aren't the only ones who love that stuff. If there is a  list for 400 hp C4 easy cheap, I am interested in that as well.

 

This will be my first engine rebuild. The engine is on a stand in my garage, the starter and the water pump are already off of it. I was planning on pulling off the valve covers & if things go well, maybe removing the heads and seeing what kind of shape things are in. Not sure exactly when the engine was taken out of service & stored.


Julie Austad
Emerald City Mustangs
425-353-1535
425-418-9217



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From keven at ti.com  Fri May  8 10:09:35 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 08:09:35 -0500
Subject: [CM] 500HP 351W
In-Reply-To: <007101c9cf97$359f8d70$a0dea850$@com>
References: <1383621288.3116351241734583433.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<850205241.3117361241734789241.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<007101c9cf97$359f8d70$a0dea850$@com>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA570C22FA5@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

Here's another data point.  I wanted nearly what you want, a reliable engine with lots of HP and torque down low where you can enjoy it every day.  Ultimate HP was not my goal, but torque and a decent amount of gas mileage.  Because of that I spent money on AFR heads (the 185s) and kept the cam reasonable (targeting ~400 HP).  500 HP would be a simple cam change though I would think since all the rest of the stuff is there.

I did this:
351W block with standard prep (60 over bore, etc.)
351W crank offset ground for 360 (?) Chrysler rods and dished pistons
We actually ended up going with 3.9L Chrysler V6 rods since they didn't need narrowing
AFR 185 CNC machined heads from Keith Craft.
Victor Jr. intake modified for fuel injection
Hooker headers and 2.5" dual exhaust through ultra flo mufflers.
This resulted in 375 ci.

The engine is still sitting in my garage unfortunately, so I can't tell you much about how it ended up, but I think it was the best direction for me.  I had a friend (who was a professional) rebuild the engine and it cost very little.  I don't think this combo would cost a lot if you can find someone who knows how to do it.  In fact it didn't cost me much more than a standard rebuild, but I got a better rod ratio (the Chrysler rods are much stronger and longer).

One "weak" point of the stroker 393 kits is the 351W rods.  They aren't as strong as some people think they should be.  Also the rod ratio is pretty poor.  This is the ratio between the rod and the stroke.  This causes increased side load on the cylinders and some people think this will wear the engine faster.  My friend Dave Williamson points out that the Chevy 400 small block has a worse rod ratio and it had no reliability problems.

I personally think you'd probably be fine with the stroker kits if that's what you want.  I just wanted to prepare you for what some people will say in discussion about them.  I don't think there's a lot of actual data on this out there, but there are a lot of bench racers who think they know...including me I suppose, but I did put my money where my mouth is!

By the way, you'll have to get some sort of dished or heavily indented pistons if you want your compression to be something you can use with pump gas.  Stroked windsors make a lot of compression because of the stroke.  Make sure to keep the quench high no matter what.  This means making sure you keep the TDC height close to the heads.

http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=39
http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=36

Read any of these interesting articles and they all harp on quench.  I think it's one thing a lot of stroker builders forget.

Keven

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From jeffsubs at shanholtz.com  Fri May  8 12:24:02 2009
From: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com (Jeff Shanholtz)
Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 08:24:02 -0700
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
In-Reply-To: <4A02FC10.3050201@adc.com>
References: <4A02FC10.3050201@adc.com>
Message-ID: <002d01c9cff1$0469a470$0d3ced50$@com>

I plan on doing a front disc conversion sometime in the next year, so I'm
holding off on the master cylinder for now. Thanks for the advice though!

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Rick
Larson
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 8:20 AM
To: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com
Subject: Re: [CM] brakes locking up

 > Heck, the first thing I do when I start restoring a car (even before 
the engine) is to go thru the brakes.

Me too.  When I got my 66 out of storage, the first thing was to get the 
brakes working. 

If you plan to keep the 4 wheel drums, this is a great time to add a 
dual reservoir master cylinder.

I converted to front discs using Granada bits but getting the brakes in 
top shape should be the top priority.

rick


_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/


From mustang at peskin.org  Fri May  8 13:36:30 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 09:36:30 -0700
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
In-Reply-To: <002d01c9cff1$0469a470$0d3ced50$@com>
References: <4A02FC10.3050201@adc.com> <002d01c9cff1$0469a470$0d3ced50$@com>
Message-ID: <E9AC0574-4729-4B59-8101-457844586702@peskin.org>

Likewise. My next major purchase is the disc swap + new hard lines +  
dual bowl master cylinder and brake booster (I like power brakes --  
what can I say?)


On May 8, 2009, at 8:24 AM, Jeff Shanholtz wrote:

> I plan on doing a front disc conversion sometime in the next year,  
> so I'm
> holding off on the master cylinder for now. Thanks for the advice  
> though!


From RRobaldo at WLTSoftware.com  Fri May  8 13:50:37 2009
From: RRobaldo at WLTSoftware.com (Lance Robaldo)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 12:50:37 -0400
Subject: [CM] brakes locking up
In-Reply-To: <E9AC0574-4729-4B59-8101-457844586702@peskin.org>
References: <4A02FC10.3050201@adc.com> <002d01c9cff1$0469a470$0d3ced50$@com>
	<E9AC0574-4729-4B59-8101-457844586702@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <52E98619E29F4E67B04B9BB5D63F2F25@morena>

I agree 100% on the power brakes! All 250lbs of me have to practically stand on
the brakes to come to an abrupt stop! 

The first thing I did to my son's 66 coupe was put in a dual M/C and a power
booster.

Now if I can only find a booster that will fit a 65 with a manual tranny!  

Lance Robaldo

Sr. Software Developer
WLT Software of Florida
RRobaldo at WLTSoftware.com
(727)442-9296 



From wal at nzmustang.co.nz  Fri May  8 20:00:34 2009
From: wal at nzmustang.co.nz (Wal Marshall)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 11:00:34 +1200
Subject: [CM] Oil info on breaking in camms
In-Reply-To: <52E98619E29F4E67B04B9BB5D63F2F25@morena>
References: <4A02FC10.3050201@adc.com>
	<002d01c9cff1$0469a470$0d3ced50$@com><E9AC0574-4729-4B59-8101-457844586702@peskin.org>
	<52E98619E29F4E67B04B9BB5D63F2F25@morena>
Message-ID: <A263552946754DD08BF05E4AC008BEEF@Walslaptop>

  
Some good info on oils here.. Focused on making sure your new cam and
lifters survive a rebuild ....

http://editions.amospublishing.com/MNGE/Default.aspx?d=20090701&pagenum=80

Wal Marshall


From ckelly at raceabilene.com  Sat May  9 12:01:06 2009
From: ckelly at raceabilene.com (Chris Kelly)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 10:01:06 -0500
Subject: [CM] Oil info on breaking in camms
In-Reply-To: <A263552946754DD08BF05E4AC008BEEF@Walslaptop>
References: <4A02FC10.3050201@adc.com>	<002d01c9cff1$0469a470$0d3ced50$@com><E9AC0574-4729-4B59-8101-457844586702@peskin.org>	<52E98619E29F4E67B04B9BB5D63F2F25@morena>
	<A263552946754DD08BF05E4AC008BEEF@Walslaptop>
Message-ID: <004001c9d0b6$fc0fa9c0$f42efd40$@com>

All I get is an advert for a Mustang magazine.  No links or anything else.

=====================================
 Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
 http://raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
          Merkel, Texas
             Member:
 International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
      Falcon Club of America
=====================================
> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-
> bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Wal Marshall
> Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 6:01 PM
> To: Chris Kelly
> Subject: [CM] Oil info on breaking in camms
> 
> 
> Some good info on oils here.. Focused on making sure your new cam and
> lifters survive a rebuild ....
> 
> http://editions.amospublishing.com/MNGE/Default.aspx?d=20090701&pagenum=80
> 
> Wal Marshall
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/


From wal at nzmustang.co.nz  Sat May  9 19:02:33 2009
From: wal at nzmustang.co.nz (Wal Marshall)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 10:02:33 +1200
Subject: [CM] Oil info on breaking in camms
In-Reply-To: <004001c9d0b6$fc0fa9c0$f42efd40$@com>
References: <4A02FC10.3050201@adc.com>	<002d01c9cff1$0469a470$0d3ced50$@com><E9AC0574-4729-4B59-8101-457844586702@peskin.org>	<52E98619E29F4E67B04B9BB5D63F2F25@morena><A263552946754DD08BF05E4AC008BEEF@Walslaptop>
	<004001c9d0b6$fc0fa9c0$f42efd40$@com>
Message-ID: <18DD082080114FCA9FA3934E480E3D7D@Walslaptop>

Chris,

Its looks like the page # was lost off the link when it wrapped. .(see
below) .  Go to page 80 in the mag to read the article.

Cheers, Wal

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Chris
Kelly
Sent: Sunday, 10 May 2009 3:01 a.m.
To: Wal Marshall
Subject: Re: [CM] Oil info on breaking in camms

All I get is an advert for a Mustang magazine.  No links or anything else.

=====================================
 Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
 http://raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
          Merkel, Texas
             Member:
 International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
      Falcon Club of America
=====================================
> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-
> bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Wal Marshall
> Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 6:01 PM
> To: Chris Kelly
> Subject: [CM] Oil info on breaking in camms
> 
> 
> Some good info on oils here.. Focused on making sure your new cam and 
> lifters survive a rebuild ....
> 
> http://editions.amospublishing.com/MNGE/Default.aspx?d=20090701&pagenu
> m=80
> 
> Wal Marshall
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/ No virus found
in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.12.22/2105 - Release Date: 05/08/09
11:43:00


From ckelly at raceabilene.com  Sun May 10 12:29:09 2009
From: ckelly at raceabilene.com (Chris Kelly)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 10:29:09 -0500
Subject: [CM] Oil info on breaking in camms
In-Reply-To: <18DD082080114FCA9FA3934E480E3D7D@Walslaptop>
References: <4A02FC10.3050201@adc.com>	<002d01c9cff1$0469a470$0d3ced50$@com><E9AC0574-4729-4B59-8101-457844586702@peskin.org>	<52E98619E29F4E67B04B9BB5D63F2F25@morena><A263552946754DD08BF05E4AC008BEEF@Walslaptop>	<004001c9d0b6$fc0fa9c0$f42efd40$@com>
	<18DD082080114FCA9FA3934E480E3D7D@Walslaptop>
Message-ID: <005501c9d184$11907d60$34b17820$@com>

Well, duh - I sound have seen that.  After registering for the digital
edition, it's actually on page 84.  Weird.

Good article, think they covered that very well.  I use VR-1 in everything
here, so far so good.  And on my flat tappet solid lift cams, I use Isky's
EDM lifters with some EOS for break-in and leave the springs as installed.
No problems yet.  The current 351C has 130 seat, 380 open spring pressure -
doubles with a damper.  

=====================================
 Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
 http://raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
          Merkel, Texas
             Member:
 International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
      Falcon Club of America
=====================================
> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-
> bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Wal Marshall
> Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 5:03 PM
> To: Chris Kelly
> Subject: Re: [CM] Oil info on breaking in camms
> 
> Chris,
> 
> Its looks like the page # was lost off the link when it wrapped. .(see
> below) .  Go to page 80 in the mag to read the article.
> 
> Cheers, Wal
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Chris
> Kelly
> Sent: Sunday, 10 May 2009 3:01 a.m.
> To: Wal Marshall
> Subject: Re: [CM] Oil info on breaking in camms
> 
> All I get is an advert for a Mustang magazine.  No links or anything else.
> 
> =====================================
>  Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
>  http://raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
>           Merkel, Texas
>              Member:
>  International Hot Rod Association
> Abilene Performance Car Association
>       Falcon Club of America
> =====================================
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-
> > bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Wal Marshall
> > Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 6:01 PM
> > To: Chris Kelly
> > Subject: [CM] Oil info on breaking in camms
> >
> >
> > Some good info on oils here.. Focused on making sure your new cam and
> > lifters survive a rebuild ....
> >
> > http://editions.amospublishing.com/MNGE/Default.aspx?d=20090701&pagenu
> > m=80
> >
> > Wal Marshall
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classic-mustangs mailing list
> > Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> > http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> >
> > Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/ No virus
found
> in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.12.22/2105 - Release Date: 05/08/09
> 11:43:00
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/


From Lance at Robaldo.com  Tue May 12 11:55:02 2009
From: Lance at Robaldo.com (Lance Robaldo)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 10:55:02 -0400
Subject: [CM] Nordskog Gauges.
Message-ID: <E7C2B6E0FD9345F487F68D4156F8B613@morena>

 

So after 5 months, my Nordskog digital gauges arrived last week.  This week (in
between mom's day festivities) I tried to install them in my 65 ragtop.

 

They were surprisingly easy to hook up.  

 

I only had to run a few new wires, the rest are already present to use.

1.	I needed to run switched 12V (+) from the ignition switch down to the
transmission speedometer sender unit.  
2.	I also had to provide a switched 12V (+) to the panel itself
3.	I had to run a wire from the negative (-) side of the ignition coil to
the new panel for the tachometer readout.
4.	I had to provide a ground wire for the panel. 

 

I also had to install a new oil pressure sender, and a new water temp sender.
Both use the existing wiring and took less than 5 minutes for both.

 

The speedo sender took about another 5 minutes and hooks up very simply.  

1.	The cable removes from the tranny with one screw.
2.	I removed the clip holding the gear to the speedo cable.
3.	I put the gear on the new sending unit and re-installed the clip.
4.	Then I stuck the sender into the tranny and re-installed the screw to
hold it in.

 

After that I hooked up the shielded wire that Nordskog provided, along with the
switched 12V that I referred to earlier and ran them up into the dash through
the same hole that the cable came out of. (I did stick a grommet in the hole to
prevent the wires from being cut).

 

The entire install itself was fairly quick (less than 2 hours) and I didn't run
into any unexpected surprises.  Most of the time was spent in preparation so
that the actual hook up was almost "plug & play".  

 

I STRONGLY recommend preparing things first.  I took several steps to ensure
that the actual install would only take a few minutes.

1.	I labeled all my existing wires as to their function (turn signals,
bright indicator, fuel, oil pressure, etc.)
2.	I then put bullet connectors on all the existing wires. (socket side on
anything carrying voltage, bullet side on anything grounded)
3.	I put the other side of the bullet connectors on the matching wires on
the instrument panel.

 

Doing this took most of my time, but in the long run it will make it MUCH easier
to remove the panel in the future.

Note: when I do it again, I'm going to use a block connector so I can plug all
the wires in at once with one simple connector.

 

After all that preparation I hooked up the car battery and turned on the
ignition. The odometer was displaying wacky characters and the fuel gauge was
displaying "FF"!!!!!!

 

I called tech support and they determined that a dip switch was pre-set
incorrectly at the factory for the stock fuel sender.  I set the dip switches
per his instructions and the fuel gauge responded with "75", which is 3/4 of a
tank full and pretty much what I already know is in the tank.

 

However, the odometer was still displaying wacky characters, and the speedometer
was very inconsistent when driven.  The tech quickly determined that one of the
chips on the board was defective and issued me an RMA to send it back for
repair.

 

So now my car is out of commission until I get the gauges back from Nordskog!

 

Sigh. 5 months.. and counting..  One day I'll have those gauges installed in my
car!

 

 

 

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From jkessell at mac.com  Tue May 12 15:51:18 2009
From: jkessell at mac.com (Jim Kessell)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 14:51:18 -0400
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
Message-ID: <17364111162660494041540137568854204079-Webmail@me.com>

Anyone have any experience with this outfit?

http://www.stangerssite.com/

I think I'm gonna give them a try to rebuild/restore my power steering pump.  Looks like a decent value and there are more parts than I thought in there!

Jim


From dano at process.com  Tue May 12 16:02:16 2009
From: dano at process.com (Dan O'Reilly)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 13:02:16 -0600
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <17364111162660494041540137568854204079-Webmail@me.com>
References: <17364111162660494041540137568854204079-Webmail@me.com>
Message-ID: <6.1.2.0.2.20090512130105.0b46e088@raptor.psccos.com>

I've used Precision Products to do pumps for both my '66 coupe and '71 
Mach, and been VERY satisfied with their work.  You can reach them at:

Precision Products
24165 IH 10 West
San Antonio, TX 79257-1159
201-687-1313

At 12:51 PM 5/12/2009, Jim Kessell wrote:
>Anyone have any experience with this outfit?
>
>http://www.stangerssite.com/
>
>I think I'm gonna give them a try to rebuild/restore my power steering 
>pump.  Looks like a decent value and there are more parts than I thought 
>in there!
>
>Jim
>
>_______________________________________________
>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

------
+-------------------------------+----------------------------------------+
| Dan O'Reilly                  |  "There are 10 types of people in this |
| Principal Engineer            |   world: those who understand binary   |
| Process Software              |   and those who don't."                |
| http://www.process.com        |                                        |
+-------------------------------+----------------------------------------+


From dano at process.com  Tue May 12 16:15:59 2009
From: dano at process.com (Dan O'Reilly)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 13:15:59 -0600
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <6.1.2.0.2.20090512130105.0b46e088@raptor.psccos.com>
References: <17364111162660494041540137568854204079-Webmail@me.com>
	<6.1.2.0.2.20090512130105.0b46e088@raptor.psccos.com>
Message-ID: <6.1.2.0.2.20090512131538.0b46eea0@raptor.psccos.com>

...which, of course, I just realized is what stangerssite.com is...

At 01:02 PM 5/12/2009, Dan O'Reilly wrote:
>I've used Precision Products to do pumps for both my '66 coupe and '71
>Mach, and been VERY satisfied with their work.  You can reach them at:
>
>Precision Products
>24165 IH 10 West
>San Antonio, TX 79257-1159
>201-687-1313
>
>At 12:51 PM 5/12/2009, Jim Kessell wrote:
> >Anyone have any experience with this outfit?
> >
> >http://www.stangerssite.com/
> >
> >I think I'm gonna give them a try to rebuild/restore my power steering
> >pump.  Looks like a decent value and there are more parts than I thought
> >in there!
> >
> >Jim
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Classic-mustangs mailing list
> >Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> >http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> >
> >Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>------
>+-------------------------------+----------------------------------------+
>| Dan O'Reilly                  |  "There are 10 types of people in this |
>| Principal Engineer            |   world: those who understand binary   |
>| Process Software              |   and those who don't."                |
>| http://www.process.com        |                                        |
>+-------------------------------+----------------------------------------+
>
>_______________________________________________
>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

---

Dan O'Reilly
1971 Bright Red Mach 1
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO



From jkessell at mac.com  Tue May 12 15:47:18 2009
From: jkessell at mac.com (Jim Kessell)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 14:47:18 -0400
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
Message-ID: <4269703125807267966311661213546473785-Webmail@me.com>

Anyone have any experience with this outfit?

http://www.stangerssite.com/

I think I'm gonna give them a try to rebuild/restore my power steering pump.  Looks like a decent value and there are more parts than I thought in there!

Jim


From dano at process.com  Tue May 12 16:54:05 2009
From: dano at process.com (Dan O'Reilly)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 13:54:05 -0600
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <4269703125807267966311661213546473785-Webmail@me.com>
References: <4269703125807267966311661213546473785-Webmail@me.com>
Message-ID: <6.1.2.0.2.20090512135037.0b472470@raptor.psccos.com>

Great people.  Used them twice for 2 different cars.  They stand behind 
their work, but turnaround time ain't always the fastest.

At 12:47 PM 5/12/2009, Jim Kessell wrote:
>Anyone have any experience with this outfit?
>
>http://www.stangerssite.com/
>
>I think I'm gonna give them a try to rebuild/restore my power steering 
>pump.  Looks like a decent value and there are more parts than I thought 
>in there!
>
>Jim
>
>_______________________________________________
>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

---

Dan O'Reilly
1971 Bright Red Mach 1
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO



From nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net  Tue May 12 17:09:35 2009
From: nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net (nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 20:09:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <17364111162660494041540137568854204079-Webmail@me.com>
Message-ID: <527982186.4424161242158975185.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Any place up here in the Pacific NW that does that sort of stuff? I need a new power steering pump & steering box rebuild. 

Julie Austad 
Emerald City Mustangs 
425-353-1535 
425-418-9217 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Kessell" <jkessell at mac.com> 
To: "Julie Austad" <nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 11:51:18 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service 

Anyone have any experience with this outfit? 

http://www.stangerssite.com/ 

I think I'm gonna give them a try to rebuild/restore my power steering pump. ?Looks like a decent value and there are more parts than I thought in there! 

Jim 

_______________________________________________ 
Classic-mustangs mailing list 
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca 
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs 

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/ 
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From W427 at comcast.net  Tue May 12 18:07:57 2009
From: W427 at comcast.net (David)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 14:07:57 -0700
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <527982186.4424161242158975185.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <527982186.4424161242158975185.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A09E52D.1000503@comcast.net>

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From nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net  Tue May 12 19:29:10 2009
From: nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net (nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 22:29:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <4A09E52D.1000503@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <329302108.4474451242167350913.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Thanks David. I just emailed them for a couple of price quotes. They are really local to me. I asked about rebuilding my current steering box and also for a rack and pinion set up for it (ideally, that is what I'd like to put on it, but I'm sure it's a bit pricey). 

Julie Austad 
Emerald City Mustangs 
425-353-1535 
425-418-9217 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David" <W427 at comcast.net> 
To: "Julie Austad" <nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 2:07:57 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service 

Julie - check with these guys: http://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/Index.html 
I haven't used them but they have a decent rep online from those that have. 

David 

nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net wrote: 


Any place up here in the Pacific NW that does that sort of stuff? I need a new power steering pump & steering box rebuild. 

Julie Austad 
Emerald City Mustangs 
425-353-1535 
425-418-9217 

_______________________________________________ Classic-mustangs mailing list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/ 
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From mustang at peskin.org  Tue May 12 19:37:36 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 15:37:36 -0700
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <329302108.4474451242167350913.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <329302108.4474451242167350913.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5C7EAB7A-9F4F-4180-BD37-5341B14DDA8B@peskin.org>

The stock power steering setup on my '65 makes my blood boil more  
often than I appreciate its convenience. I'm two steps from manual  
conversion to go cheap on it.

HOWEVER:

I've been told by some on this list that a R&P setup isn't worth the  
price paid for it + the lingering issues after (bump steer, etc) but I  
haven't verified any of that. Mustangs Plus employees assert that this  
can all be overcome with the Total Control Products setup -- though  
they also semi-endorse the Flaming River setup which I've heard is  
trash.

I'm also researching the Toyota conversion for which ABS Power Brake  
makes a conversion (link can be found on Wal's joint):

http://www.nzmustang.com/Newintoold/newintoold.htm


On May 12, 2009, at 3:29 PM, nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net wrote:

> t (ideally, that is what I'd like to put on it, but I'm sure it's a  
> bit pricey).


From pboggini at gmail.com  Tue May 12 19:55:47 2009
From: pboggini at gmail.com (Pete Boggini)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 15:55:47 -0700
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <5C7EAB7A-9F4F-4180-BD37-5341B14DDA8B@peskin.org>
References: <329302108.4474451242167350913.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<5C7EAB7A-9F4F-4180-BD37-5341B14DDA8B@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <a3b3b5980905121555x480c51aby75e4f5765bd8e0e4@mail.gmail.com>

  So, I've had an '83 Cressida box for many years now and I even
investigated getting a stock '65 pitman arm resplined to fit the Toyota
box.  Has anyone found out for sure what the pitman arm from ABS is?  And,
has anyone found a cost?  I'd be a bit nervous about a cut and welded pitman
arm which is why mine isn't done yet.  Well, that and a couple of young kids
has slowed my progress significantly.

peterb

On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 3:37 PM, Brandon Peskin <mustang at peskin.org> wrote:

> The stock power steering setup on my '65 makes my blood boil more
> often than I appreciate its convenience. I'm two steps from manual
> conversion to go cheap on it.
>
> HOWEVER:
>
> I've been told by some on this list that a R&P setup isn't worth the
> price paid for it + the lingering issues after (bump steer, etc) but I
> haven't verified any of that. Mustangs Plus employees assert that this
> can all be overcome with the Total Control Products setup -- though
> they also semi-endorse the Flaming River setup which I've heard is
> trash.
>
> I'm also researching the Toyota conversion for which ABS Power Brake
> makes a conversion (link can be found on Wal's joint):
>
> http://www.nzmustang.com/Newintoold/newintoold.htm
>
>
> On May 12, 2009, at 3:29 PM, nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net wrote:
>
> > t (ideally, that is what I'd like to put on it, but I'm sure it's a
> > bit pricey).
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/<http://sauce.donair.org/%7Ecm/>
>
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From JCool289 at aol.com  Tue May 12 20:31:21 2009
From: JCool289 at aol.com (Jason)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 19:31:21 -0400
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
References: <329302108.4474451242167350913.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<5C7EAB7A-9F4F-4180-BD37-5341B14DDA8B@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <7482F19D78BE409AA52A46CEADD9A55A@home2f1db246f2>

dont switch it to manual......i did it to my 66 and regret it big time. the 
steering effort is rediculous, although i do still have the power idler 
arm.....that may be adding more effort to it. when going down the road 
though it feels great , i like the "road feel" it gives. the slow turns 
arent bad either. its when you're stopped that you wanna cry while turning 
the wheel.

Jason


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brandon Peskin" <mustang at peskin.org>
To: <JCOOL289 at aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 6:37 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service


> The stock power steering setup on my '65 makes my blood boil more
> often than I appreciate its convenience. I'm two steps from manual
> conversion to go cheap on it.
>
> HOWEVER:
>
> I've been told by some on this list that a R&P setup isn't worth the
> price paid for it + the lingering issues after (bump steer, etc) but I
> haven't verified any of that. Mustangs Plus employees assert that this
> can all be overcome with the Total Control Products setup -- though
> they also semi-endorse the Flaming River setup which I've heard is
> trash.
>
> I'm also researching the Toyota conversion for which ABS Power Brake
> makes a conversion (link can be found on Wal's joint):
>
> http://www.nzmustang.com/Newintoold/newintoold.htm
>
>
> On May 12, 2009, at 3:29 PM, nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net wrote:
>
>> t (ideally, that is what I'd like to put on it, but I'm sure it's a
>> bit pricey).
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> 


From shawkins777 at comcast.net  Tue May 12 21:02:00 2009
From: shawkins777 at comcast.net (Steve Hawkins)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 19:02:00 -0500
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <5C7EAB7A-9F4F-4180-BD37-5341B14DDA8B@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <6D110192F566432D98B3524C64BCE103@VAIO>

I have the Flamming River Rack and Pinion conversion on my 68 Fastback.  It
does have a lot of bump steer but that's the position of it's mounting.
Someone makes a bump steer kit I may try next time the front end needs
alignment.  It's actually a fairly beefy setup.  

I also just installed their stainless steel collapsable tilt steering column
because my stock column had too much movement in it.  A pain to put in but I
can now see all my gauges without having to look around the steering wheel.

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Brandon
Peskin
Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 5:38 PM
To: shawkins777 at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service


The stock power steering setup on my '65 makes my blood boil more  
often than I appreciate its convenience. I'm two steps from manual  
conversion to go cheap on it.

HOWEVER:

I've been told by some on this list that a R&P setup isn't worth the  
price paid for it + the lingering issues after (bump steer, etc) but I  
haven't verified any of that. Mustangs Plus employees assert that this  
can all be overcome with the Total Control Products setup -- though  
they also semi-endorse the Flaming River setup which I've heard is  
trash.

I'm also researching the Toyota conversion for which ABS Power Brake  
makes a conversion (link can be found on Wal's joint):

http://www.nzmustang.com/Newintoold/newintoold.htm


On May 12, 2009, at 3:29 PM, nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net wrote:

> t (ideally, that is what I'd like to put on it, but I'm sure it's a
> bit pricey).

_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/


From W427 at comcast.net  Wed May 13 00:03:20 2009
From: W427 at comcast.net (David)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 20:03:20 -0700
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <7482F19D78BE409AA52A46CEADD9A55A@home2f1db246f2>
References: <329302108.4474451242167350913.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>	<5C7EAB7A-9F4F-4180-BD37-5341B14DDA8B@peskin.org>
	<7482F19D78BE409AA52A46CEADD9A55A@home2f1db246f2>
Message-ID: <4A0A3878.9070004@comcast.net>

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From W427 at comcast.net  Wed May 13 00:05:02 2009
From: W427 at comcast.net (David)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 20:05:02 -0700
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <329302108.4474451242167350913.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <329302108.4474451242167350913.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A0A38DE.8000806@comcast.net>

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From mustang at wabba.net  Wed May 13 01:14:09 2009
From: mustang at wabba.net (Bryan Fuller)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 21:14:09 -0700
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <5C7EAB7A-9F4F-4180-BD37-5341B14DDA8B@peskin.org>
References: <329302108.4474451242167350913.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<5C7EAB7A-9F4F-4180-BD37-5341B14DDA8B@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <003601c9d381$44129440$cc37bcc0$@net>

The TCP setup is one of the nicest and has the least amount of bumpsteer
compared to the rest due to the long rack length, it's also one of the most
expensive, but you get what you pay for. Having installed many units from of
all the brands, the Randall's gets my (current) vote for easy install,
excellent fitment, and it functions well too. Best bang-for-the-buck,
nothing fancy, just fits and works. Flaming River is down on the list a ways
- Poor header clearance with their stalk positioning, bad bumpsteer. It's a
short rack that they use in many applications and doesn't suit the Mustang
well. FWIW anyway.

And yes Redhead is a good choice, and one of the only for that matter :P ..
Although for the price, you are close to an entirely new box rather than
rebuilding. Yes the Flaming River boxes are nice, had good experience with
them.

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Brandon
Peskin
Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 3:38 PM
To: MUSTANG at wabba.net
Subject: Re: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service

The stock power steering setup on my '65 makes my blood boil more  
often than I appreciate its convenience. I'm two steps from manual  
conversion to go cheap on it.

HOWEVER:

I've been told by some on this list that a R&P setup isn't worth the  
price paid for it + the lingering issues after (bump steer, etc) but I  
haven't verified any of that. Mustangs Plus employees assert that this  
can all be overcome with the Total Control Products setup -- though  
they also semi-endorse the Flaming River setup which I've heard is  
trash.

I'm also researching the Toyota conversion for which ABS Power Brake  
makes a conversion (link can be found on Wal's joint):

http://www.nzmustang.com/Newintoold/newintoold.htm


On May 12, 2009, at 3:29 PM, nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net wrote:

> t (ideally, that is what I'd like to put on it, but I'm sure it's a  
> bit pricey).

_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/



From gregm at xmission.com  Wed May 13 01:26:09 2009
From: gregm at xmission.com (Greg McArthur)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 22:26:09 -0600
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <003601c9d381$44129440$cc37bcc0$@net>
References: <329302108.4474451242167350913.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>	<5C7EAB7A-9F4F-4180-BD37-5341B14DDA8B@peskin.org>
	<003601c9d381$44129440$cc37bcc0$@net>
Message-ID: <001701c9d382$f2d22f80$d8768e80$@com>

Just cut out the towers et al and put in a Heidt system...

Greg McArthur
gregm at xmission.com

|-----Original Message-----
|From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-
|mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Bryan Fuller
|Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 10:14 PM
|To: gregm at xmission.com
|Subject: Re: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
|
|The TCP setup is one of the nicest and has the least amount of bumpsteer
|compared to the rest due to the long rack length, it's also one of the
|most
|expensive, but you get what you pay for. Having installed many units
|from of
|all the brands, the Randall's gets my (current) vote for easy install,
|excellent fitment, and it functions well too. Best bang-for-the-buck,
|nothing fancy, just fits and works. Flaming River is down on the list a
|ways
|- Poor header clearance with their stalk positioning, bad bumpsteer.
|It's a
|short rack that they use in many applications and doesn't suit the
|Mustang
|well. FWIW anyway.
|
|And yes Redhead is a good choice, and one of the only for that matter :P
|..
|Although for the price, you are close to an entirely new box rather than
|rebuilding. Yes the Flaming River boxes are nice, had good experience
|with
|them.
|
|-----Original Message-----
|From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
|[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
|Brandon
|Peskin
|Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 3:38 PM
|To: MUSTANG at wabba.net
|Subject: Re: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
|
|The stock power steering setup on my '65 makes my blood boil more
|often than I appreciate its convenience. I'm two steps from manual
|conversion to go cheap on it.
|
|HOWEVER:
|
|I've been told by some on this list that a R&P setup isn't worth the
|price paid for it + the lingering issues after (bump steer, etc) but I
|haven't verified any of that. Mustangs Plus employees assert that this
|can all be overcome with the Total Control Products setup -- though
|they also semi-endorse the Flaming River setup which I've heard is
|trash.
|
|I'm also researching the Toyota conversion for which ABS Power Brake
|makes a conversion (link can be found on Wal's joint):
|
|http://www.nzmustang.com/Newintoold/newintoold.htm
|
|
|On May 12, 2009, at 3:29 PM, nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net wrote:
|
|> t (ideally, that is what I'd like to put on it, but I'm sure it's a
|> bit pricey).
|
|_______________________________________________
|Classic-mustangs mailing list
|Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
|http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
|
|Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
|
|
|_______________________________________________
|Classic-mustangs mailing list
|Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
|http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
|
|Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/


From keven at ti.com  Wed May 13 10:18:52 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 08:18:52 -0500
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <003601c9d381$44129440$cc37bcc0$@net>
References: <329302108.4474451242167350913.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<5C7EAB7A-9F4F-4180-BD37-5341B14DDA8B@peskin.org>
	<003601c9d381$44129440$cc37bcc0$@net>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5711E317F@dlee02.ent.ti.com>


Ahh, the steering debate.

I've been studying this for many years.  It seems I have plenty of time to think about it, but little time to do any change on it. ;-)

I've studied and modified my suspension thoroughly and I've studied bump steer and alignments and feel I have a very good grasp on what causes everything and how it all works.

My $0.02: 
1.  You need a short rack to get good bump steer.  For a 1967-69 Mustang, the inner tie rod to inner tie rod length is about 19".  For a steering rack mounted in roughly the same position as the current steering linkage (the only place it can go), the pivot point needs to match pretty closely.  Believe it or not, the stock steering setup really does have pretty good bump steer.  I've measured it roughly at about +/-.1" (at the tie rod end) through a pretty good range of travel.  It's not totally centered at the ride height of my car, but it's not bad.

That means you need a steering rack with pivots about 18"-19" apart (probably closer for '65-'66 cars.  This is a smaller rack than just about any production rack, but the old GM rack with center pivots can be adapted (as some kits have).  This is where the flaming river kit fails. It will steer the car just fine, but the bump steer from the long rack length makes it an suboptimal solution.  Bump steer isn't the end of the world, but should be avoided if possible.

2.  I try to avoid products that have proprietary replacement parts.  I like the total control setup, but I'd like to be able to replace the rack at the parts store.  The Speed Direct kit uses an off the shelf rack and pinion from what I understand.  Maybe some other kits do too.

3.  Some have scrapped the whole thing and put on a Mustang II/Pinto setup.  The usefulness of this depends on your goals.  This is a nice compact setup, but results in reduced wheel travel, etc.  If you want a great handling car and a big engine compartment/drag racing is not highest on your list, the MII setup wouldn't be my first choice.  The adjustability and ease of working on the stock early Mustang setup is really nice.  I can change springs in an hour, and shocks quickly too, and it's a pretty major operation for little benefit (for me at least).  Plus if you want really good handling the stock setup with a 2" drop and neg wedge kit on the upper control arm results in excellent tire wear and fantastic handling due to a great dynamic camber curve you won't be able to reproduce on an MII setup.

There you have it.  Your mileage may vary ;-)
Keven

From keven at ti.com  Wed May 13 10:30:51 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 08:30:51 -0500
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <4A0A3878.9070004@comcast.net>
References: <329302108.4474451242167350913.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<5C7EAB7A-9F4F-4180-BD37-5341B14DDA8B@peskin.org>
	<7482F19D78BE409AA52A46CEADD9A55A@home2f1db246f2>
	<4A0A3878.9070004@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5711E31A3@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

>Remember, the manual and power steering boxes are the same - just that the power setups help the manual steering.

Is this true on the '65-'66 cars?  For the '67-'68 cars it's not.  The power boxes in those years have a reduced ratio for quicker steering which would definitely result in harder steering.

Keven
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From jlennard at gmail.com  Wed May 13 11:30:53 2009
From: jlennard at gmail.com (jonathan lennard)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 16:30:53 +0200
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5711E317F@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <C630A63D.115A9%jlennard@gmail.com>

I've also done my own steering research.  I've got a 67 fastback, with a RRS
power rack, Heidts adjustable valve, and a Pump from Randals.
I had a lot of problem getting this system to where I want it.
But to sum it up, the camber is the trick to make it feel the way you want
it.
The details.
The rack itself is supposed to have the best bumpsteer correction.  The car
drives straight as an arrow...and is very sensitive and comfortable to
drive.  Here's what I don't like about it.  The rack broke suddenly, and out
of the blue in a traffic circle. Steve Ford, the RRS rep, replaced it for me
at no cost, and with a great attitude. They said that they had had a bad
batch of racks from which they build their systems...and this would never
happen again. I drove in a big race this weekend, and put the car through
some really rough turns...no problems at all.
You really need the pump to go with the rack, however I was not happy with
the feel I was getting...too much power, not enough road feel.  The heidts
valve helped, but not much, we drilled out the flow valve a tiny bit, which
improved the whole set up (honestly, you could skip the valve, it makes
maybe 10% difference).  I still feel it's a bit too much like power
steering, but to be honest, that's in comparison to my 2005 mustang GT,
which feels heavier in my hands.  Really this set up is pretty damn nice...I
have driven a lot of other mustangs recently, and it's nicer then the Total
Control rack...which a friend of mine has (although the TC rack may be
sturdier).  I think Randals rack might also be a very good set up, at a
reasonable cost...he told me his rack has the same bumpsteer correction as
the RRS.  


The rack itself was an easy install.
> Ahh, the steering debate.
> 
> I've been studying this for many years.  It seems I have plenty of time to
> think about it, but little time to do any change on it. ;-)
> 
> I've studied and modified my suspension thoroughly and I've studied bump steer
> and alignments and feel I have a very good grasp on what causes everything and
> how it all works.
> 
> My $0.02: 
> 1.  You need a short rack to get good bump steer.  For a 1967-69 Mustang, the
> inner tie rod to inner tie rod length is about 19".  For a steering rack
> mounted in roughly the same position as the current steering linkage (the only
> place it can go), the pivot point needs to match pretty closely.  Believe it
> or not, the stock steering setup really does have pretty good bump steer.
> I've measured it roughly at about +/-.1" (at the tie rod end) through a pretty
> good range of travel.  It's not totally centered at the ride height of my car,
> but it's not bad.
> 
> That means you need a steering rack with pivots about 18"-19" apart (probably
> closer for '65-'66 cars.  This is a smaller rack than just about any
> production rack, but the old GM rack with center pivots can be adapted (as
> some kits have).  This is where the flaming river kit fails. It will steer the
> car just fine, but the bump steer from the long rack length makes it an
> suboptimal solution.  Bump steer isn't the end of the world, but should be
> avoided if possible.
> 
> 2.  I try to avoid products that have proprietary replacement parts.  I like
> the total control setup, but I'd like to be able to replace the rack at the
> parts store.  The Speed Direct kit uses an off the shelf rack and pinion from
> what I understand.  Maybe some other kits do too.
> 
> 3.  Some have scrapped the whole thing and put on a Mustang II/Pinto setup.
> The usefulness of this depends on your goals.  This is a nice compact setup,
> but results in reduced wheel travel, etc.  If you want a great handling car
> and a big engine compartment/drag racing is not highest on your list, the MII
> setup wouldn't be my first choice.  The adjustability and ease of working on
> the stock early Mustang setup is really nice.  I can change springs in an
> hour, and shocks quickly too, and it's a pretty major operation for little
> benefit (for me at least).  Plus if you want really good handling the stock
> setup with a 2" drop and neg wedge kit on the upper control arm results in
> excellent tire wear and fantastic handling due to a great dynamic camber curve
> you won't be able to reproduce on an MII setup.
> 
> There you have it.  Your mileage may vary ;-)
> Keven
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/



From keven at ti.com  Wed May 13 13:33:26 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 11:33:26 -0500
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <C630A63D.115A9%jlennard@gmail.com>
References: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5711E317F@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
	<C630A63D.115A9%jlennard@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5711E34EB@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

I'm glad you have your car where you want it.  I've never heard of RRS, but after googling it looks very similar to the speed direct kit.  It has the center section with the correct distance between the tie rods, so bump steer should be good.  All the racks with the center section like this have the capability to have the best bump steer.

How much is it?

Randalls rack looks about the same.  I still like the Speed direct systems.  The price is about $300-$400 cheaper for the same thing.

How is it nicer than the Total Control rack?  Better feel?

Keven

-----Original Message-----
>it's nicer then the Total
Control rack...which a friend of mine has 

From jlennard at gmail.com  Wed May 13 14:45:14 2009
From: jlennard at gmail.com (jonathan lennard)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 19:45:14 +0200
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5711E34EB@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <C630D3CA.115B3%jlennard@gmail.com>

It feels more precise...maybe a bit lighter in hand..nice on the
highway..but like I think you said..it's all about the camber
adjustment...and I'm not sure how my friend's is adjusted...whatever else
you do won't make a difference if the camber is not pushed a bit.
jonathan

I'm glad you have your car where you want it.  I've never heard of RRS, but
> after googling it looks very similar to the speed direct kit.  It has the
> center section with the correct distance between the tie rods, so bump steer
> should be good.  All the racks with the center section like this have the
> capability to have the best bump steer.
> 
> How much is it?
> 
> Randalls rack looks about the same.  I still like the Speed direct systems.
> The price is about $300-$400 cheaper for the same thing.
> 
> How is it nicer than the Total Control rack?  Better feel?
> 
> Keven
> 
> -----Original Message-----
>> it's nicer then the Total
> Control rack...which a friend of mine has
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/



From JCool289 at aol.com  Wed May 13 17:08:25 2009
From: JCool289 at aol.com (Jason)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 16:08:25 -0400
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
References: <329302108.4474451242167350913.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>	<5C7EAB7A-9F4F-4180-BD37-5341B14DDA8B@peskin.org><7482F19D78BE409AA52A46CEADD9A55A@home2f1db246f2>
	<4A0A3878.9070004@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AB6561E8313A44C18F94E073E0248F89@home2f1db246f2>

it was supposedly aligned to manual specs. the idler arm is still the power one, and from what i understand is what helped the power setup to re-center. it has small teeth in the middle of the bushing that keep the inner part of the rubber from turning on the idler arm bracket, while the rubber actually twists. then when you let go of the wheel , the rubber snaps back....returning the wheels to center. can anyone affirm this , or do have it all wrong? i know there is definitely a difference between power and manual idler arms , though some of the catalogs show them to be the same part (wrong).
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: David 
  To: JCOOL289 at aol.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 11:03 PM
  Subject: Re: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service


  Jason, you probably still have the power-steering alignment.  Re-align with the manual spec's and you'll be much happier.  Remember, the manual and power steering boxes are the same - just that the power setups help the manual steering.  If you've driven comparable power and non-power cars, you may have noticed the steering wheel virtually self-centers after a turn with power steering, but has to be 'helped' back to center on a manual.  This is due to the excess caster in the alignment that is possible with power assist, but is a royal pain when the power stops.

  I have manual steering and I can use my right hand on the passenger seatback to help twist to look behind me while parking and turn the wheel with just my left hand.  Not in a continuous movement mind you, but repeated strokes while stopped.  Even the smallest vehicle movement makes it quite easy.  Kind-of funny now, but my Mom taught me to always eek the car while parking to make it easier, and my Dad always told me to eek the car so it was easier on the parts.  

  Anyway, if yours is harder than that, you probably need a re-alignment.  These cars were intended to be driven by all types of men and women, and when properly adjusted, should be.  No, it's not power, but the 'typical 1960's secretary' the car was designed to be marketed to should be able to handle it.  Hope that helps.

  David

  Jason wrote: 
dont switch it to manual......i did it to my 66 and regret it big time. the 
steering effort is rediculous, although i do still have the power idler 
arm.....that may be adding more effort to it. when going down the road 
though it feels great , i like the "road feel" it gives. the slow turns 
arent bad either. its when you're stopped that you wanna cry while turning 
the wheel.

Jason

------------------------------------------------------------------------------


  _______________________________________________
  Classic-mustangs mailing list
  Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
  http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

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From keven at ti.com  Wed May 13 17:40:28 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 15:40:28 -0500
Subject: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service
In-Reply-To: <AB6561E8313A44C18F94E073E0248F89@home2f1db246f2>
References: <329302108.4474451242167350913.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<5C7EAB7A-9F4F-4180-BD37-5341B14DDA8B@peskin.org><7482F19D78BE409AA52A46CEADD9A55A@home2f1db246f2>
	<4A0A3878.9070004@comcast.net>
	<AB6561E8313A44C18F94E073E0248F89@home2f1db246f2>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5711E384C@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

I'm pretty sure the idler arm for power steering is as you say.  Like most of the suspension, they used twisting rubber to act like a "bearing".  In theory this sounds good, but requires a pretty high force to turn.  This may very well be a source of some of your trouble.

I've seen "poor man's power steering" rebuilds of these using bearings.  There's someone out there selling these.

Keven
________________________________
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Jason
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 3:08 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] Power Steering Rebuild Service

it was supposedly aligned to manual specs. the idler arm is still the power one, and from what i understand is what helped the power setup to re-center.
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From jeffsubs at shanholtz.com  Wed May 13 21:58:18 2009
From: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com (Jeff Shanholtz)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 17:58:18 -0700
Subject: [CM] vent dampers
Message-ID: <00ce01c9d42f$124edf00$36ec9d00$@com>

When I installed my aftermarket AC, one of the things it had me do was to
seal off the right cowl vent. Now I'm thinking it would be cool to have a
"fresh air" mode where air would be routed from the right cowl vent to the
intake of the evaporator unit (where the blower is). I think this could be
pretty easy to do by letting a short duct hang above the intake, but the one
thing I'd want to do is add a damper to close the vent when I don't want
fresh air.

 

I've tried googling to see if I can find something that would fit the bill
and am having zero luck. I'm hoping someone here might know where I can find
small dampers - ideally for a 2.5" plastic flexible duct, but if it's
somewhere in the ballpark I'm sure I could make it work.

 

Any ideas? Is "damper" the right term to use for this or is there some
better term I could use for searching?

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From keven at ti.com  Wed May 13 23:17:38 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 21:17:38 -0500
Subject: [CM] vent dampers
In-Reply-To: <00ce01c9d42f$124edf00$36ec9d00$@com>
References: <00ce01c9d42f$124edf00$36ec9d00$@com>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5711E3A37@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

2.5" seems kind of small, right?  The intake to an AC unit is typically about 4".

Check out "dust collector hardware" on google.  In woodworking they use a suction system that uses a 2.5"- 4" pipe that needs a shut off.  They come in metal and plastic.  Perhaps you could rig a wire to open and close it remotely, although it's not a Y type setup.  Maybe that helps anyway.

Here's one:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=149578&FamilyID=899

Here's a bigger plastic one:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=149577&FamilyID=899

Keven
________________________________
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Jeff Shanholtz
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 7:58 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: [CM] vent dampers

When I installed my aftermarket AC, one of the things it had me do was to seal off the right cowl vent. Now I'm thinking it would be cool to have a "fresh air" mode where air would be routed from the right cowl vent to the intake of the evaporator unit (where the blower is). I think this could be pretty easy to do by letting a short duct hang above the intake, but the one thing I'd want to do is add a damper to close the vent when I don't want fresh air.

I've tried googling to see if I can find something that would fit the bill and am having zero luck. I'm hoping someone here might know where I can find small dampers - ideally for a 2.5" plastic flexible duct, but if it's somewhere in the ballpark I'm sure I could make it work.

Any ideas? Is "damper" the right term to use for this or is there some better term I could use for searching?
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From mahilly at gmail.com  Thu May 14 01:32:53 2009
From: mahilly at gmail.com (Mike H)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 21:32:53 -0700
Subject: [CM] Speaking of A/C...
Message-ID: <ed3b22350905132132m3391f071oe21ebc0a09c12866@mail.gmail.com>

...not for my Mustang but for my wife's Nissan Altima...hoping one of the
experts on this list can provide some guidance.  I seem to have a leak
somewhere that my local shop can't find.  I have had the system recharged
with refrigerant twice in two years.  Both times by the same shop, and both
times they said they used fluorescent die and an ultra violet light to try
and identify the leak.  That has not worked, and each time they re-charge it
they tell me "see if that works, if not bring it back and we'll re charge
it" (for a fee of course).  Well, I can hear the refrigerant hissing
and bubbling through the coils once again so I know it's leaking out again.
Is there something different my shop should be doing?  Is it time to find
another service shop?  I have absolutely no experience or expertise with A/C
so I am at their mercy.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Coates, Keven <keven at ti.com>
Date: Wed, May 13, 2009 at 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] vent dampers
To: mike <mahilly at gmail.com>
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From mustangpaul at gmail.com  Thu May 14 01:38:40 2009
From: mustangpaul at gmail.com (Paul Sawyer)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 23:38:40 -0500
Subject: [CM] Speaking of A/C...
In-Reply-To: <ed3b22350905132132m3391f071oe21ebc0a09c12866@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ed3b22350905132132m3391f071oe21ebc0a09c12866@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <929e6daa0905132138j4d8914c4t268e316c859218c8@mail.gmail.com>

Get a 10 buck recharger pistol and several cans of 134a. You can do it
yourself through the low pressure side.  When you get tired of that,
ask the street rod guys who does their ac work and go there.


On Wednesday, May 13, 2009, Mike H <mahilly at gmail.com> wrote:
> ...not for my Mustang but for my wife's Nissan Altima...hoping one of the experts on this list can provide some guidance.? I seem to have a leak somewhere that my local shop can't find.? I have had the system recharged with refrigerant twice in two years.? Both times by the same shop, and both times they said they used fluorescent die and an ultra violet light to try and identify the leak.? That has not worked, and each time they re-charge it they tell me "see if that works, if not bring it back and we'll re charge it" (for a fee of course).? Well, I can hear the refrigerant hissing and?bubbling through the coils once again so I know it's leaking out again.? Is there something different my shop should be doing?? Is it time to find another service shop?? I have absolutely no experience or expertise with A/C so I am at their mercy.
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Coates, Keven <keven at ti.com>
> Date: Wed, May 13, 2009 at 7:17 PM
> Subject: Re: [CM] vent dampers
> To: mike <mahilly at gmail.com>
>
>
>

From michael.dinn at airfire.ca  Thu May 14 07:33:32 2009
From: michael.dinn at airfire.ca (Michael 'Moose' Dinn)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 07:33:32 -0300
Subject: [CM] Speaking of A/C...
In-Reply-To: <ed3b22350905132132m3391f071oe21ebc0a09c12866@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ed3b22350905132132m3391f071oe21ebc0a09c12866@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090514103332.GQ5334@blend.twistedpair.ca>

> it" (for a fee of course).  Well, I can hear the refrigerant hissing
> and bubbling through the coils once again so I know it's leaking out again.

If you can actually hear it coming out, try and pinpoint it with a
stethoscope, then go back to the shop and tell them you're not paying unless
they can find it - since its the 3rd time around. If you can hear it
happening, I can't see them not being able to find it.


From jkessell at mac.com  Thu May 14 08:32:17 2009
From: jkessell at mac.com (James Kessell)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 07:32:17 -0400
Subject: [CM] Speaking of A/C...
In-Reply-To: <ed3b22350905132132m3391f071oe21ebc0a09c12866@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ed3b22350905132132m3391f071oe21ebc0a09c12866@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D1F326A4-7A7D-43F4-9254-B7937A4EC993@mac.com>

What are anyones thoughts on using teflon tape on both AC and power  
steering threaded connections.  Is there any reason why it should not  
be done? Other than the obvious of getting it inside the system?

While I have the PS tore down I am also go to convert my AC to 134a.  
All new parts and hoses except the evaporator.  Sending the compressor  
off this week for rebuild. Shipped the PS pump yesterday.  My goal -  
systems that work with no leaks.

Jim

On May 14, 2009, at 12:32 AM, Mike H wrote:

> ...not for my Mustang but for my wife's Nissan Altima...hoping one  
> of the experts on this list can provide some guidance.  I seem to  
> have a leak somewhere that my local shop can't find.  I have had the  
> system recharged with refrigerant twice in two years.  Both times by  
> the same shop, and both times they said they used fluorescent die  
> and an ultra violet light to try and identify the leak.  That has  
> not worked, and each time they re-charge it they tell me "see if  
> that works, if not bring it back and we'll re charge it" (for a fee  
> of course).  Well, I can hear the refrigerant hissing and bubbling  
> through the coils once again so I know it's leaking out again.  Is  
> there something different my shop should be doing?  Is it time to  
> find another service shop?  I have absolutely no experience or  
> expertise with A/C so I am at their mercy.
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Coates, Keven <keven at ti.com>
> Date: Wed, May 13, 2009 at 7:17 PM
> Subject: Re: [CM] vent dampers
> To: mike <mahilly at gmail.com>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

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From RRobaldo at WLTSoftware.com  Thu May 14 11:12:38 2009
From: RRobaldo at WLTSoftware.com (Lance Robaldo)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 10:12:38 -0400
Subject: [CM] Speaking of A/C...
In-Reply-To: <ed3b22350905132132m3391f071oe21ebc0a09c12866@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ed3b22350905132132m3391f071oe21ebc0a09c12866@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C09D09E57BF242D7B0177B36F31C60D4@morena>

Yes, there is more they can do.  They need to use an electronic leak detector,
not just the ultraviolet fluorescent dye.  

Most likely your leak is at one of the valves or at a hose coupling.   They need
to check each one with the leak detector and then fix it by either replacing the
valve core, or replacing an o-ring on the hose coupling.  Sometimes the hose
itself leaks which would require the entire hose be replaced.

 

One recharge in 2 years isn't unheard of, and can be very hard to detect.  

But having to recharge yearly is too much and should be at a high enough level
to be detectible.

 

Also, you didn't say what year Altima.  Is this a conversion car from R-12 to
R-134/A?  

R-12 is a larger molecule than R-134/A and hoses made for R-12 systems are
often porous to R-134A and it can actually leak out through the hose walls
themselves.  

 

Lance Robaldo

 

Sr. Software Developer

WLT Software of Florida

RRobaldo at WLTSoftware.com

(727)442-9296 

 

  _____  

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Mike H
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 12:33 AM
To: RRobaldo at wltsoftware.com
Subject: [CM] Speaking of A/C...

 

...not for my Mustang but for my wife's Nissan Altima...hoping one of the
experts on this list can provide some guidance.  I seem to have a leak somewhere
that my local shop can't find.  I have had the system recharged with refrigerant
twice in two years.  Both times by the same shop, and both times they said they
used fluorescent die and an ultra violet light to try and identify the leak.
That has not worked, and each time they re-charge it they tell me "see if that
works, if not bring it back and we'll re charge it" (for a fee of course).
Well, I can hear the refrigerant hissing and bubbling through the coils once
again so I know it's leaking out again.  Is there something different my shop
should be doing?  Is it time to find another service shop?  I have absolutely no
experience or expertise with A/C so I am at their mercy.  

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Coates, Keven <keven at ti.com>
Date: Wed, May 13, 2009 at 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] vent dampers
To: mike <mahilly at gmail.com>

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From Lance at Robaldo.com  Thu May 14 11:45:22 2009
From: Lance at Robaldo.com (Lance Robaldo)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 10:45:22 -0400
Subject: [CM] Speaking of A/C...
In-Reply-To: <D1F326A4-7A7D-43F4-9254-B7937A4EC993@mac.com>
References: <ed3b22350905132132m3391f071oe21ebc0a09c12866@mail.gmail.com>
	<D1F326A4-7A7D-43F4-9254-B7937A4EC993@mac.com>
Message-ID: <B1EF74A0752541BE9AA845E4E4669A23@morena>

No never use Teflon tape in an A/C system.  It can actually be broken down by
the refrigerants and contaminate your system and cause more leaks as it
degenerates.

  

And if it does manage to break off inside the system, it can clog orifices &
foul valves.

 

I assume much of the same would be true for power steering pumps, but I'll defer
to someone who is more of an expert than I on that matter.

 

As far as conversion to 134/A, keep the following in mind and you'll be happy:

*	Keeping the evaporator is fine. 
*	Replacing hoses & dryer are pretty much an absolute must.  (some may
argue about the hoses being necessary)
*	Replacing the condenser is optional, but it will be MUCH cooler if you
use a larger condenser which is designed for 134/A. 
*	If it's a more modern "Sanden" style compressor, you can usually keep
the compressor, but you need to know if the seals are compatible with 134/A,
otherwise it may not last as long as it should.

 

Lance

 

 

  _____  

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of James
Kessell
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 7:32 AM
To: RRobaldo at wltsoftware.com
Subject: Re: [CM] Speaking of A/C...

 

What are anyones thoughts on using teflon tape on both AC and power steering
threaded connections.  Is there any reason why it should not be done? Other than
the obvious of getting it inside the system?

 

While I have the PS tore down I am also go to convert my AC to 134a. All new
parts and hoses except the evaporator.  Sending the compressor off this week for
rebuild. Shipped the PS pump yesterday.  My goal - systems that work with no
leaks.

 

Jim

 

On May 14, 2009, at 12:32 AM, Mike H wrote:





...not for my Mustang but for my wife's Nissan Altima...hoping one of the
experts on this list can provide some guidance.  I seem to have a leak somewhere
that my local shop can't find.  I have had the system recharged with refrigerant
twice in two years.  Both times by the same shop, and both times they said they
used fluorescent die and an ultra violet light to try and identify the leak.
That has not worked, and each time they re-charge it they tell me "see if that
works, if not bring it back and we'll re charge it" (for a fee of course).
Well, I can hear the refrigerant hissing and bubbling through the coils once
again so I know it's leaking out again.  Is there something different my shop
should be doing?  Is it time to find another service shop?  I have absolutely no
experience or expertise with A/C so I am at their mercy.  

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Coates, Keven <keven at ti.com>
Date: Wed, May 13, 2009 at 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] vent dampers
To: mike <mahilly at gmail.com>

_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

 

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From jeffsubs at shanholtz.com  Thu May 14 16:38:32 2009
From: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com (Jeff Shanholtz)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 12:38:32 -0700
Subject: [CM] vent dampers
In-Reply-To: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5711E3A37@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
References: <00ce01c9d42f$124edf00$36ec9d00$@com>
	<8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5711E3A37@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <003f01c9d4cb$9391b820$bab52860$@com>

That looks promising! I say 2.5" because I have extra 2.5" duct tubing from
my AC install. Plus depending on how the damper is implemented, a larger
duct could mean the damper has to be longer too (imagine a circular plate
inside a duct that rotates to open or close - this is what I envisioned),
and since there isn't a whole lot of room to work with between the cowl vent
opening and the evaporator, I didn't want it to be too big.

 

But I'm not picky one way or the other provided I can find a way to get a
little fresh air flowing through my registers. J

 

Thanks for the leads!

 

If anyone else has other ideas, I'd still like to hear 'em!

 

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Coates,
Keven
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 7:18 PM
To: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com
Subject: Re: [CM] vent dampers

 

2.5" seems kind of small, right?  The intake to an AC unit is typically
about 4".

 

Check out "dust collector hardware" on google.  In woodworking they use a
suction system that uses a 2.5"- 4" pipe that needs a shut off.  They come
in metal and plastic.  Perhaps you could rig a wire to open and close it
remotely, although it's not a Y type setup.  Maybe that helps anyway.

 

Here's one:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=149578
<http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=149578&FamilyID=899>
&FamilyID=899

 

Here's a bigger plastic one:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=149577
<http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=149577&FamilyID=899>
&FamilyID=899

 

Keven

  _____  

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Jeff
Shanholtz
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 7:58 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: [CM] vent dampers

 

When I installed my aftermarket AC, one of the things it had me do was to
seal off the right cowl vent. Now I'm thinking it would be cool to have a
"fresh air" mode where air would be routed from the right cowl vent to the
intake of the evaporator unit (where the blower is). I think this could be
pretty easy to do by letting a short duct hang above the intake, but the one
thing I'd want to do is add a damper to close the vent when I don't want
fresh air.

 

I've tried googling to see if I can find something that would fit the bill
and am having zero luck. I'm hoping someone here might know where I can find
small dampers - ideally for a 2.5" plastic flexible duct, but if it's
somewhere in the ballpark I'm sure I could make it work.

 

Any ideas? Is "damper" the right term to use for this or is there some
better term I could use for searching?

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From ckelly at raceabilene.com  Thu May 14 23:37:59 2009
From: ckelly at raceabilene.com (Chris Kelly)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 21:37:59 -0500
Subject: [CM] Speaking of A/C...
In-Reply-To: <ed3b22350905132132m3391f071oe21ebc0a09c12866@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ed3b22350905132132m3391f071oe21ebc0a09c12866@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <006c01c9d506$2aec7770$80c56650$@com>

Do not use anything but o-rings on an AC system.  Only the old systems use
flare connections - everything now (since probably mid 80s) uses o-ring
seals.  No sealer required. 

 

Take it to another shop.  I would replace every o-ring in the system first
then think about replacing the hoses.  It could be anywhere - pinhole leak
in the evaporator or some such.  That would run into big $$$$.  

 

=====================================
 Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
 http://raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
          Merkel, Texas
             Member:
 International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
      Falcon Club of America
=====================================

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Mike H
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 11:33 PM
To: Chris Kelly
Subject: [CM] Speaking of A/C...

 

...not for my Mustang but for my wife's Nissan Altima...hoping one of the
experts on this list can provide some guidance.  I seem to have a leak
somewhere that my local shop can't find.  I have had the system recharged
with refrigerant twice in two years.  Both times by the same shop, and both
times they said they used fluorescent die and an ultra violet light to try
and identify the leak.  That has not worked, and each time they re-charge it
they tell me "see if that works, if not bring it back and we'll re charge
it" (for a fee of course).  Well, I can hear the refrigerant hissing and
bubbling through the coils once again so I know it's leaking out again.  Is
there something different my shop should be doing?  Is it time to find
another service shop?  I have absolutely no experience or expertise with A/C
so I am at their mercy.  

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Coates, Keven <keven at ti.com>
Date: Wed, May 13, 2009 at 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] vent dampers
To: mike <mahilly at gmail.com>

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From mustang at peskin.org  Fri May 15 01:46:58 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 21:46:58 -0700
Subject: [CM] Speaking of A/C...
In-Reply-To: <B1EF74A0752541BE9AA845E4E4669A23@morena>
References: <ed3b22350905132132m3391f071oe21ebc0a09c12866@mail.gmail.com>
	<D1F326A4-7A7D-43F4-9254-B7937A4EC993@mac.com>
	<B1EF74A0752541BE9AA845E4E4669A23@morena>
Message-ID: <FBF76F5E-4FE7-4C9F-992A-EE80D7E2C7A0@peskin.org>

I had to teflon the hose connections on the ram cylinder when I  
installed it a few years ago. It would dribble without it.

On May 14, 2009, at 7:45 AM, Lance Robaldo wrote:

> I assume much of the same would be true for power steering pumps,  
> but I'll defer to someone who is more of an expert than I on that  
> matter.


From mahilly at gmail.com  Fri May 15 01:55:01 2009
From: mahilly at gmail.com (Mike H)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 21:55:01 -0700
Subject: [CM] Speaking of A/C...
In-Reply-To: <C09D09E57BF242D7B0177B36F31C60D4@morena>
References: <ed3b22350905132132m3391f071oe21ebc0a09c12866@mail.gmail.com>
	<C09D09E57BF242D7B0177B36F31C60D4@morena>
Message-ID: <ed3b22350905142155g9e99c90xade228e70132763a@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks guys!

Moose, the noise I'm hearing is not the actual leak, rather the refrigerant
circulating through the coils while running and for a few seconds after I
turn the AC off.  I've noticed that this happens after some refrigerant has
leaked out leaving air space in the system.

Lance, the Altima is a 2002 with a stock AC system.  Not sure if it's R-12
or 134A?  And I should have clarified that it's been re-charged twice in one
year not two (once last summer and again a couple months ago).  They haven't
mentioned anything about an electronic leak detector so I assume they don't
have one.  The shop I have been taking it to is my local Midas.  They do my
brake work which I am happy with, so asked them to check the AC while I was
there for brake work.  Looks like I just need to find an AC specialist.

Thanks again!

On Thu, May 14, 2009 at 7:12 AM, Lance Robaldo <RRobaldo at wltsoftware.com>wrote:

>  Yes, there is more they can do.  They need to use an electronic leak
> detector, not just the ultraviolet fluorescent dye.
>
> Most likely your leak is at one of the valves or at a hose coupling.   They
> need to check each one with the leak detector and then fix it by either
> replacing the valve core, or replacing an o-ring on the hose coupling.
> Sometimes the hose itself leaks which would require the entire hose be
> replaced.
>
>
>
> One recharge in 2 years isn't unheard of, and can be very hard to detect.
>
> But having to recharge yearly is too much and should be at a high enough
> level to be detectible.
>
>
>
> Also, you didn't say what year Altima.  Is this a conversion car from R-12
> to R-134/A?
>
> R-12 is a larger molecule than R-134/A and hoses made for R-12 systems are
>  often porous to R-134A and it can actually leak out through the hose walls
> themselves.
>
>
>
> Lance Robaldo
>
>
>
> *Sr. Software Developer*
>
> *WLT Software of Florida*
>
> *RRobaldo at WLTSoftware.com*
>
> *(727)442-9296 *
>
>
>   ------------------------------
>
> *From:* classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:
> classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] *On Behalf Of *Mike H
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 14, 2009 12:33 AM
> *To:* RRobaldo at wltsoftware.com
> *Subject:* [CM] Speaking of A/C...
>
>
>
> ...not for my Mustang but for my wife's Nissan Altima...hoping one of the
> experts on this list can provide some guidance.  I seem to have a leak
> somewhere that my local shop can't find.  I have had the system recharged
> with refrigerant twice in two years.  Both times by the same shop, and both
> times they said they used fluorescent die and an ultra violet light to try
> and identify the leak.  That has not worked, and each time they re-charge it
> they tell me "see if that works, if not bring it back and we'll re charge
> it" (for a fee of course).  Well, I can hear the refrigerant hissing
> and bubbling through the coils once again so I know it's leaking out again.
> Is there something different my shop should be doing?  Is it time to find
> another service shop?  I have absolutely no experience or expertise with A/C
> so I am at their mercy.
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: *Coates, Keven* <keven at ti.com>
> Date: Wed, May 13, 2009 at 7:17 PM
> Subject: Re: [CM] vent dampers
> To: mike <mahilly at gmail.com>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>
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From keven at ti.com  Fri May 15 10:03:40 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 08:03:40 -0500
Subject: [CM] Speaking of A/C...
In-Reply-To: <ed3b22350905142155g9e99c90xade228e70132763a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ed3b22350905132132m3391f071oe21ebc0a09c12866@mail.gmail.com>
	<C09D09E57BF242D7B0177B36F31C60D4@morena>
	<ed3b22350905142155g9e99c90xade228e70132763a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5712AE552@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

It's R134 since it's newer than 1994.

Keven
________________________________
>Lance, the Altima is a 2002 with a stock AC system.  Not sure if it's R-12 or 134A?
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From Lance at Robaldo.com  Fri May 15 11:40:08 2009
From: Lance at Robaldo.com (Lance Robaldo)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 10:40:08 -0400
Subject: [CM] Speaking of A/C...
In-Reply-To: <ed3b22350905142155g9e99c90xade228e70132763a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ed3b22350905132132m3391f071oe21ebc0a09c12866@mail.gmail.com><C09D09E57BF242D7B0177B36F31C60D4@morena>
	<ed3b22350905142155g9e99c90xade228e70132763a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <115BA2AEC5EB436892C7A5DDBD6700EF@morena>

As Keven said, since it's a 2002 you have R-134/A in it.   That confirms that at
least it isn't an issue with "porosity" of the hoses. 

I would place my money on it being a leaky fill valve.

   

And that is the problem with the fluorescent dyes.   

The valves ALWAYS have the dye on them since that's where the system is filled. 

So the tech expects to find the dye there and overlooks that the valve is the
problem.

 

Lance.

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From mustang at peskin.org  Fri May 15 18:46:47 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 14:46:47 -0700
Subject: [CM] 289: Replacing the main seals?
Message-ID: <93C27A29-418F-49F1-BC3A-B89947760A5C@peskin.org>

I've got a little oil dribble along what I believe is the front main  
seal on my 289. Everything I've heard suggests the oil seals on these  
old boys needs to be changed every few years. Since I've had the car 4  
years, (and the owner for the 5 previous years before that gave me all  
his receipts and there's no mention of changing the seals), that'd put  
my seals at 9 years old -- or older.

One person once told me these seals come with the oil pan gasket (and  
I have an oil pan gasket kit with 2 rubber smiley-face shaped seals in  
addition to the cork pan seals), but I don't know that for sure.

Has anyone done this before? What is the procedure/correct parts? Do I  
need to pull the harmonic?



From mustang at peskin.org  Sun May 17 04:02:30 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 00:02:30 -0700
Subject: [CM] What is the magic goo for holding the water shields on inside
	the doors/quarter panels?
Message-ID: <BEE88A3A-5D8B-46AF-867F-68DCD79173E9@peskin.org>

I know its consistency but unable to figure out its name. Anyone out  
there know off the tops of their heads?

Thanks in advance.

From JCool289 at aol.com  Sun May 17 18:03:04 2009
From: JCool289 at aol.com (Jason)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 17:03:04 -0400
Subject: [CM] 289: Replacing the main seals?
References: <93C27A29-418F-49F1-BC3A-B89947760A5C@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <61EF668F32D94B65822D5A0A2EBD7A3D@home2f1db246f2>

yes , the two rubber smiley face thing is correct. there is also a seal in 
the front timing cover, where the crankshaft sticks through for the harmonic 
balancer to mount. it is a round seal like the transmission tailshaft uses 
(for the driveshaft yoke). it just gets tapped in like the trans seal does. 
i suppose they call this the front main seal???  that seal could be a source 
of your leak too. the rubber smiley faces are part of the oil pan gasket.

Jason
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brandon Peskin" <mustang at peskin.org>
To: <JCOOL289 at aol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 5:46 PM
Subject: [CM] 289: Replacing the main seals?


> I've got a little oil dribble along what I believe is the front main
> seal on my 289. Everything I've heard suggests the oil seals on these
> old boys needs to be changed every few years. Since I've had the car 4
> years, (and the owner for the 5 previous years before that gave me all
> his receipts and there's no mention of changing the seals), that'd put
> my seals at 9 years old -- or older.
>
> One person once told me these seals come with the oil pan gasket (and
> I have an oil pan gasket kit with 2 rubber smiley-face shaped seals in
> addition to the cork pan seals), but I don't know that for sure.
>
> Has anyone done this before? What is the procedure/correct parts? Do I
> need to pull the harmonic?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> 


From walt at boeninger.net  Sun May 17 18:05:19 2009
From: walt at boeninger.net (Walt Boeninger)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 14:05:19 -0700
Subject: [CM] 289: Replacing the main seals?
In-Reply-To: <93C27A29-418F-49F1-BC3A-B89947760A5C@peskin.org>
References: <93C27A29-418F-49F1-BC3A-B89947760A5C@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <4A107C0F.7010501@boeninger.net>

The front main seal is in the timing cover, pressed in like a
rear axle seal.  The rear main is in the bearing cap.

The rubber seals with the pan gasket are what seals the pan to
bottom of the timing cover and rear main bearing cap.

So ... I guess the first thing is to verify what is actually leaking
when you say "front main seal" ......

Changing the pan gaskets is simple. Pull pan, clean, replace.

Front main seal requires pulling the damper so you can remove
the timing cover.  The timing cover gasket set includes the front
rubber smiley-face, and also the front two corners of the pan gasket..
You do not need to remove the oil pan to r&r the timing cover.
The front main seal is installed similar to a front axle grease seal.
Tap it in place.

The tricky part is getting the timing cover properly aligned/concentric
with the crankshaft when you are reinstalling it.  Ford actually mentions
an alignment fixture in the shop manual. I've never seen one.....



Regards
--------------
Walt Boeninger
webmaster at vintagemustang.org
webmaster at norcal-saac.org
http://shelbytransam.com

Brandon Peskin wrote:
> I've got a little oil dribble along what I believe is the front main  
> seal on my 289. Everything I've heard suggests the oil seals on these  
> old boys needs to be changed every few years. Since I've had the car 4  
> years, (and the owner for the 5 previous years before that gave me all  
> his receipts and there's no mention of changing the seals), that'd put  
> my seals at 9 years old -- or older.
> 
> One person once told me these seals come with the oil pan gasket (and  
> I have an oil pan gasket kit with 2 rubber smiley-face shaped seals in  
> addition to the cork pan seals), but I don't know that for sure.
> 
> Has anyone done this before? What is the procedure/correct parts? Do I  
> need to pull the harmonic?
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> 

--

From dschmi at ix.netcom.com  Sun May 17 18:57:55 2009
From: dschmi at ix.netcom.com (Dave)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 17:57:55 -0400
Subject: [CM] What is the magic goo for holding the water shields on
 inside the doors/quarter panels?
In-Reply-To: <BEE88A3A-5D8B-46AF-867F-68DCD79173E9@peskin.org>
References: <BEE88A3A-5D8B-46AF-867F-68DCD79173E9@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <4A108863.9050607@ix.netcom.com>

3M Automotive Bedding & Glazing Compound.  Black is part number 08509
It comes in caulking gun tubes.
Dave

Brandon Peskin wrote:
> I know its consistency but unable to figure out its name. Anyone out  
> there know off the tops of their heads?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>
>   


From mustangpaul at gmail.com  Sun May 17 19:22:06 2009
From: mustangpaul at gmail.com (Paul Sawyer)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 17:22:06 -0500
Subject: [CM] What is the magic goo for holding the water shields on
	inside the doors/quarter panels?
In-Reply-To: <4A108863.9050607@ix.netcom.com>
References: <BEE88A3A-5D8B-46AF-867F-68DCD79173E9@peskin.org>
	<4A108863.9050607@ix.netcom.com>
Message-ID: <929e6daa0905171522g48dc9e3bgccc20f30176519d@mail.gmail.com>

I use spray adhesive where needed.  My doors have enough of the stuff left
on the doors to hold it in place.

On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 4:57 PM, Dave <dschmi at ix.netcom.com> wrote:

> 3M Automotive Bedding & Glazing Compound.  Black is part number 08509
> It comes in caulking gun tubes.
> Dave
>
> Brandon Peskin wrote:
> > I know its consistency but unable to figure out its name. Anyone out
> > there know off the tops of their heads?
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classic-mustangs mailing list
> > Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> > http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> >
> > Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/<http://sauce.donair.org/%7Ecm/>
> >
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/<http://sauce.donair.org/%7Ecm/>
>
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From W427 at comcast.net  Sun May 17 19:52:40 2009
From: W427 at comcast.net (David)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 15:52:40 -0700
Subject: [CM] What is the magic goo for holding the water shields on
 inside the doors/quarter panels?
In-Reply-To: <4A108863.9050607@ix.netcom.com>
References: <BEE88A3A-5D8B-46AF-867F-68DCD79173E9@peskin.org>
	<4A108863.9050607@ix.netcom.com>
Message-ID: <4A109538.9090509@comcast.net>

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From mustang at peskin.org  Sun May 17 20:23:11 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 16:23:11 -0700
Subject: [CM] What is the magic goo for holding the water shields on
	inside the doors/quarter panels?
In-Reply-To: <4A109538.9090509@comcast.net>
References: <BEE88A3A-5D8B-46AF-867F-68DCD79173E9@peskin.org>
	<4A108863.9050607@ix.netcom.com> <4A109538.9090509@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5E44E190-7EBC-4165-85A9-563E2111D727@peskin.org>

That has to be the most awesome product recommendation I've ever  
received.
On May 17, 2009, at 3:52 PM, David wrote:

> Although it's not the "right stuff", if you're planning on going  
> into your doors in the future, I found that 'casket gasket' works  
> very well to hold and seal the plastic sheets, but allows removal  
> and replacement.  I asked the funeral home what it was called and  
> they said it was only known to them as casket gasket - a sticky  
> black putty strip that comes in rolls on double-sided wax paper.  I  
> use a razor to cut thin strips for things like this.  Tenacious  
> stuff - wear disposable gloves.


From mustangpaul at gmail.com  Sun May 17 21:41:53 2009
From: mustangpaul at gmail.com (Paul Sawyer)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 19:41:53 -0500
Subject: [CM] What is the magic goo for holding the water shields on
	inside the doors/quarter panels?
In-Reply-To: <5E44E190-7EBC-4165-85A9-563E2111D727@peskin.org>
References: <BEE88A3A-5D8B-46AF-867F-68DCD79173E9@peskin.org>
	<4A108863.9050607@ix.netcom.com> <4A109538.9090509@comcast.net>
	<5E44E190-7EBC-4165-85A9-563E2111D727@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <929e6daa0905171741y18f91e17y5a673cf4a62a4938@mail.gmail.com>

Ewwwww. . . . .

8)

On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 6:23 PM, Brandon Peskin <mustang at peskin.org> wrote:

> That has to be the most awesome product recommendation I've ever
> received.
> On May 17, 2009, at 3:52 PM, David wrote:
>
> > Although it's not the "right stuff", if you're planning on going
> > into your doors in the future, I found that 'casket gasket' works
> > very well to hold and seal the plastic sheets, but allows removal
> > and replacement.  I asked the funeral home what it was called and
> > they said it was only known to them as casket gasket - a sticky
> > black putty strip that comes in rolls on double-sided wax paper.  I
> > use a razor to cut thin strips for things like this.  Tenacious
> > stuff - wear disposable gloves.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/<http://sauce.donair.org/%7Ecm/>
>
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From mahilly at gmail.com  Sun May 17 23:42:06 2009
From: mahilly at gmail.com (Mike H)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 19:42:06 -0700
Subject: [CM] What is the magic goo for holding the water shields on
	inside the doors/quarter panels?
In-Reply-To: <4A109538.9090509@comcast.net>
References: <BEE88A3A-5D8B-46AF-867F-68DCD79173E9@peskin.org>
	<4A108863.9050607@ix.netcom.com> <4A109538.9090509@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ed3b22350905171942x327300ffr7e1607a347fc724e@mail.gmail.com>

Where does one purchase such a product?  My local 'Graveyard Depot' is
closed on Sundays ;>

On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 3:52 PM, David <W427 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Although it's not the "right stuff", if you're planning on going into your
> doors in the future, I found that 'casket gasket' works very well to hold
> and seal the plastic sheets, but allows removal and replacement.  I asked
> the funeral home what it was called and they said it was only known to them
> as casket gasket - a sticky black putty strip that comes in rolls on
> double-sided wax paper.  I use a razor to cut thin strips for things like
> this.  Tenacious stuff - wear disposable gloves.
>
> David
>
> Dave wrote:
>
> 3M Automotive Bedding & Glazing Compound.  Black is part number 08509
> It comes in caulking gun tubes.
> Dave
>
> Brandon Peskin wrote:
>
>
> I know its consistency but unable to figure out its name. Anyone out
> there know off the tops of their heads?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>
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From dano at process.com  Sun May 17 23:57:45 2009
From: dano at process.com (Dan O'Reilly)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 20:57:45 -0600
Subject: [CM] What is the magic goo for holding the water shields
 on	inside the doors/quarter panels?
In-Reply-To: <ed3b22350905171942x327300ffr7e1607a347fc724e@mail.gmail.co
 m>
References: <BEE88A3A-5D8B-46AF-867F-68DCD79173E9@peskin.org>
	<4A108863.9050607@ix.netcom.com> <4A109538.9090509@comcast.net>
	<ed3b22350905171942x327300ffr7e1607a347fc724e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6.1.2.0.2.20090517205245.03f248e8@raptor.psccos.com>

This is just a plain old 3M product called "3M Strip Caulk" and it comes in 
12" strips, about 60' or so to a pack, or in a 65' roll.  Just about any 
parts house or place that sells automotive paints and sealants should have 
it for less than $20.

Be advised: this stuff is WAY sticky.  I usually roll it out a bit thinner 
than it comes in the pack (roll it like clay).  Once you stick a water 
shield on, it's STUCK.  It will unstick easier if you warm it up, and you 
can usually work a watershield off without doing major damage to it.

At 08:42 PM 5/17/2009, Mike H wrote:
>Where does one purchase such a product?  My local 'Graveyard Depot' is 
>closed on Sundays ;>
>
>On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 3:52 PM, David 
><<mailto:W427 at comcast.net>W427 at comcast.net> wrote:
>Although it's not the "right stuff", if you're planning on going into your 
>doors in the future, I found that 'casket gasket' works very well to hold 
>and seal the plastic sheets, but allows removal and replacement.  I asked 
>the funeral home what it was called and they said it was only known to 
>them as casket gasket - a sticky black putty strip that comes in rolls on 
>double-sided wax paper.  I use a razor to cut thin strips for things like 
>this.  Tenacious stuff - wear disposable gloves.
>
>David
>
>
>Dave wrote:
>>
>>3M Automotive Bedding & Glazing Compound.  Black is part number 08509
>>
>>It comes in caulking gun tubes.
>>
>>Dave
>>
>>
>>Brandon Peskin wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>I know its consistency but unable to figure out its name. Anyone out
>>>
>>>there know off the tops of their heads?
>>>
>>>
>>>Thanks in advance.
>>
>>---
>>
>>Dan O'Reilly
>>1971 Bright Red Mach 1
>>2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
>>Colorado Springs, CO
>>


From mustang at peskin.org  Mon May 18 00:11:02 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 20:11:02 -0700
Subject: [CM] What is the magic goo for holding the water shields
	on	inside the doors/quarter panels?
In-Reply-To: <6.1.2.0.2.20090517205245.03f248e8@raptor.psccos.com>
References: <BEE88A3A-5D8B-46AF-867F-68DCD79173E9@peskin.org>
	<4A108863.9050607@ix.netcom.com> <4A109538.9090509@comcast.net>
	<ed3b22350905171942x327300ffr7e1607a347fc724e@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.1.2.0.2.20090517205245.03f248e8@raptor.psccos.com>
Message-ID: <596DC488-FF03-4E65-95E5-40046F5422C5@peskin.org>

You're the man.

 From 3M's website:

 > Used for car body openings where a soft, non-hardening material is  
needed. Waterproof; will not shrink.

Works for me.


On May 17, 2009, at 7:57 PM, Dan O'Reilly wrote:

> This is just a plain old 3M product called "3M Strip Caulk" and it  
> comes in
> 12" strips, about 60' or so to a pack, or in a 65' roll.  Just about  
> any
> parts house or place that sells automotive paints and sealants  
> should have
> it for less than $20.
>
> Be advised: this stuff is WAY sticky.  I usually roll it out a bit  
> thinner
> than it comes in the pack (roll it like clay).  Once you stick a water
> shield on, it's STUCK.  It will unstick easier if you warm it up,  
> and you
> can usually work a watershield off without doing major damage to it.


From jeffsubs at shanholtz.com  Mon May 18 00:57:54 2009
From: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com (Jeff Subs)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 20:57:54 -0700
Subject: [CM] What is the magic goo for holding the water
 shields	on	inside the doors/quarter panels?
In-Reply-To: <596DC488-FF03-4E65-95E5-40046F5422C5@peskin.org>
References: <BEE88A3A-5D8B-46AF-867F-68DCD79173E9@peskin.org>
	<4A108863.9050607@ix.netcom.com> <4A109538.9090509@comcast.net>
	<ed3b22350905171942x327300ffr7e1607a347fc724e@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.1.2.0.2.20090517205245.03f248e8@raptor.psccos.com>
	<596DC488-FF03-4E65-95E5-40046F5422C5@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <001f01c9d76c$d2d453a0$787cfae0$@com>

Here is what Mustangs Unlimited sells specifically for the water shields:

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=8051+01

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Brandon Peskin
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 8:11 PM
To: Jeff Subs
Subject: Re: [CM] What is the magic goo for holding the water shields on inside the doors/quarter panels?

You're the man.

 From 3M's website:

 > Used for car body openings where a soft, non-hardening material is
needed. Waterproof; will not shrink.

Works for me.


On May 17, 2009, at 7:57 PM, Dan O'Reilly wrote:

> This is just a plain old 3M product called "3M Strip Caulk" and it
> comes in
> 12" strips, about 60' or so to a pack, or in a 65' roll.  Just about
> any
> parts house or place that sells automotive paints and sealants
> should have
> it for less than $20.
>
> Be advised: this stuff is WAY sticky.  I usually roll it out a bit
> thinner
> than it comes in the pack (roll it like clay).  Once you stick a water
> shield on, it's STUCK.  It will unstick easier if you warm it up,
> and you
> can usually work a watershield off without doing major damage to it.

_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

From mustang at peskin.org  Mon May 18 11:42:55 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 07:42:55 -0700
Subject: [CM] fan shroud installation
Message-ID: <A39B6DF9-B572-45F9-AA04-3734F08F1B9A@peskin.org>

Got myself a fan shroud (finally)

The installation is straightforward: bolt to the radiator...OK no  
problem.

*How* do I get it on there? Should I pull the water pump + fan install  
the shroud and then wedge the fan back in there?

Any ideas are appreciated. This is a deep (3.5") shroud and I've got a  
razor-sharp flex-a-lite fan.



From walt at boeninger.net  Mon May 18 11:48:11 2009
From: walt at boeninger.net (Walt Boeninger)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 07:48:11 -0700
Subject: [CM] fan shroud installation
In-Reply-To: <A39B6DF9-B572-45F9-AA04-3734F08F1B9A@peskin.org>
References: <A39B6DF9-B572-45F9-AA04-3734F08F1B9A@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <4A11752B.5040106@boeninger.net>



Brandon Peskin wrote:
> Got myself a fan shroud (finally)
> 
> The installation is straightforward: bolt to the radiator...OK no  
> problem.
> 
> *How* do I get it on there? Should I pull the water pump + fan install  
> the shroud and then wedge the fan back in there?

I would remove the fan alone as a start ......



From mustangpaul at gmail.com  Mon May 18 12:08:56 2009
From: mustangpaul at gmail.com (Paul Sawyer)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 10:08:56 -0500
Subject: [CM] fan shroud installation
In-Reply-To: <4A11752B.5040106@boeninger.net>
References: <A39B6DF9-B572-45F9-AA04-3734F08F1B9A@peskin.org>
	<4A11752B.5040106@boeninger.net>
Message-ID: <929e6daa0905180808y2467b5c5ra94238208cf1d84b@mail.gmail.com>

That's what I have to do to get my shroud on.  I don't have the "deep dish"
one that you have, but it's a juggle to get them all in there.

On Mon, May 18, 2009 at 9:48 AM, Walt Boeninger <walt at boeninger.net> wrote:

>
>
> Brandon Peskin wrote:
> > Got myself a fan shroud (finally)
> >
> > The installation is straightforward: bolt to the radiator...OK no
> > problem.
> >
> > *How* do I get it on there? Should I pull the water pump + fan install
> > the shroud and then wedge the fan back in there?
>
> I would remove the fan alone as a start ......
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/<http://sauce.donair.org/%7Ecm/>
>
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From mustangpaul at gmail.com  Mon May 18 12:09:12 2009
From: mustangpaul at gmail.com (Paul Sawyer)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 10:09:12 -0500
Subject: [CM] fan shroud installation
In-Reply-To: <929e6daa0905180808y2467b5c5ra94238208cf1d84b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <A39B6DF9-B572-45F9-AA04-3734F08F1B9A@peskin.org>
	<4A11752B.5040106@boeninger.net>
	<929e6daa0905180808y2467b5c5ra94238208cf1d84b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <929e6daa0905180809vdb06a75rbd29f6266378595@mail.gmail.com>

I wasn't clear--I have to pull the fan, not the pump.

On Mon, May 18, 2009 at 10:08 AM, Paul Sawyer <mustangpaul at gmail.com> wrote:

> That's what I have to do to get my shroud on.  I don't have the "deep dish"
> one that you have, but it's a juggle to get them all in there.
>
>
> On Mon, May 18, 2009 at 9:48 AM, Walt Boeninger <walt at boeninger.net>wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Brandon Peskin wrote:
>> > Got myself a fan shroud (finally)
>> >
>> > The installation is straightforward: bolt to the radiator...OK no
>> > problem.
>> >
>> > *How* do I get it on there? Should I pull the water pump + fan install
>> > the shroud and then wedge the fan back in there?
>>
>> I would remove the fan alone as a start ......
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Classic-mustangs mailing list
>> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>>
>> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/<http://sauce.donair.org/%7Ecm/>
>>
>
>
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From mustang at peskin.org  Mon May 18 12:15:23 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 08:15:23 -0700
Subject: [CM] fan shroud installation
In-Reply-To: <4A11752B.5040106@boeninger.net>
References: <A39B6DF9-B572-45F9-AA04-3734F08F1B9A@peskin.org>
	<4A11752B.5040106@boeninger.net>
Message-ID: <401183CB-2F61-49D9-9332-7B7430A798E4@peskin.org>

I thought about that initially, but I definitely wouldn't be able to  
reach the bolts to re-attach it. Hmm...
On May 18, 2009, at 7:48 AM, Walt Boeninger wrote:

> I would remove the fan alone as a start ......


From benw at bgwcomp.com  Mon May 18 12:18:48 2009
From: benw at bgwcomp.com (Ben Witso)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 10:18:48 -0500
Subject: [CM] fan shroud installation
In-Reply-To: <401183CB-2F61-49D9-9332-7B7430A798E4@peskin.org>
References: <A39B6DF9-B572-45F9-AA04-3734F08F1B9A@peskin.org>
	<4A11752B.5040106@boeninger.net>
	<401183CB-2F61-49D9-9332-7B7430A798E4@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <1B7DFFEA-A6F0-4B04-ADD0-7D5D1FC22439@bgwcomp.com>

You can with a box or open end wrench. Remove the fan, slide the  
shroud on but don't mount it (slide it back toward the water pump),  
re-attach the fan, then mount the shroud.

On May 18, 2009, at 10:15 AM, Brandon Peskin wrote:

> I thought about that initially, but I definitely wouldn't be able to
> reach the bolts to re-attach it. Hmm...
> On May 18, 2009, at 7:48 AM, Walt Boeninger wrote:
>
>> I would remove the fan alone as a start ......
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/


From walt at boeninger.net  Mon May 18 12:22:39 2009
From: walt at boeninger.net (Walt Boeninger)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 08:22:39 -0700
Subject: [CM] fan shroud installation
In-Reply-To: <401183CB-2F61-49D9-9332-7B7430A798E4@peskin.org>
References: <A39B6DF9-B572-45F9-AA04-3734F08F1B9A@peskin.org>	<4A11752B.5040106@boeninger.net>
	<401183CB-2F61-49D9-9332-7B7430A798E4@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <4A117D3F.9030503@boeninger.net>

hmmmmmm.......

Brandon Peskin wrote:
> I thought about that initially, but I definitely wouldn't be able to  
> reach the bolts to re-attach it. Hmm...
> On May 18, 2009, at 7:48 AM, Walt Boeninger wrote:
> 
>> I would remove the fan alone as a start ......
> 

From mustang at peskin.org  Mon May 18 12:23:27 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 08:23:27 -0700
Subject: [CM] fan shroud installation
In-Reply-To: <1B7DFFEA-A6F0-4B04-ADD0-7D5D1FC22439@bgwcomp.com>
References: <A39B6DF9-B572-45F9-AA04-3734F08F1B9A@peskin.org>
	<4A11752B.5040106@boeninger.net>
	<401183CB-2F61-49D9-9332-7B7430A798E4@peskin.org>
	<1B7DFFEA-A6F0-4B04-ADD0-7D5D1FC22439@bgwcomp.com>
Message-ID: <A90379FD-A18C-47EE-AB60-21F66C821325@peskin.org>

Excellent idea.

I'll try that -- thanks Ben!

On May 18, 2009, at 8:18 AM, Ben Witso wrote:

> You can with a box or open end wrench. Remove the fan, slide the
> shroud on but don't mount it (slide it back toward the water pump),
> re-attach the fan, then mount the shroud.


From rick at adc.com  Mon May 18 12:27:55 2009
From: rick at adc.com (Rick Larson)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 10:27:55 -0500
Subject: [CM] fan shroud installation
Message-ID: <4A117E7B.5060502@adc.com>

Follow Ben's advice.  I just did this last week.

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca 
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Ben 
Witso
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 10:19 AM
To: Larson, Rick
Subject: Re: [CM] fan shroud installation

You can with a box or open end wrench. Remove the fan, slide the shroud 
on but don't mount it (slide it back toward the water pump), re-attach 
the fan, then mount the shroud.

On May 18, 2009, at 10:15 AM, Brandon Peskin wrote:

 > I thought about that initially, but I definitely wouldn't be able to
 > reach the bolts to re-attach it. Hmm...


From keven at ti.com  Mon May 18 12:28:43 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 10:28:43 -0500
Subject: [CM] fan shroud installation
In-Reply-To: <A90379FD-A18C-47EE-AB60-21F66C821325@peskin.org>
References: <A39B6DF9-B572-45F9-AA04-3734F08F1B9A@peskin.org>
	<4A11752B.5040106@boeninger.net>
	<401183CB-2F61-49D9-9332-7B7430A798E4@peskin.org>
	<1B7DFFEA-A6F0-4B04-ADD0-7D5D1FC22439@bgwcomp.com>
	<A90379FD-A18C-47EE-AB60-21F66C821325@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA571345956@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

That's kind of like what I've always done.  My shroud was custom built, but I never had to unbolt it to get the fan out.  I had room to get my hands in there to bolt the fan on.  If you use an offset box end wrench it will work.  It's a bit of contortion, but it gets the job done.

Keven
-----Original Message-----
> You can with a box or open end wrench. Remove the fan, slide the
> shroud on but don't mount it (slide it back toward the water pump),
> re-attach the fan, then mount the shroud.

From jdettori at optonline.net  Mon May 18 14:52:55 2009
From: jdettori at optonline.net (John Dettori)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 13:52:55 -0400
Subject: [CM] fan shroud installation
References: <A39B6DF9-B572-45F9-AA04-3734F08F1B9A@peskin.org>
	<4A11752B.5040106@boeninger.net>
	<401183CB-2F61-49D9-9332-7B7430A798E4@peskin.org>
	<1B7DFFEA-A6F0-4B04-ADD0-7D5D1FC22439@bgwcomp.com>
Message-ID: <CA52FAB03D23463A9A5F4A04C3AC2350@dettori01>

Ben described it spot on.  
Especially if you're using an NOS Ford plastic fan shround - like the one I broke on my 70 Mach I (and had to pay $90 to replace in the '90s) or the NOS one I just found for my 70 Boss 302.

By the numbers:
0. Engine in chasis
1. Water pump install
2. Fan Shroud (over water pump on engine).  You may "rig" cardboard or styrofoam bricks to protect
3. Accessories (obviously skip anything you don't have)
    A. Lower Smog (Fuel vapor canisters) - hoses later  } California Emissions only 
    B. Lower Smog (Air pump)  - hoses later                 }  I believe
    C. Power Steering
    D. Power Steering Cooler
    E. Alternator
4. Belts (I'd leave them loose)
6. Fan
7. Radiator (with cardboard protecting the fins as you slide it into place); top bracket
8. Lower radiator hose
9. Fan shroud attach - don't worry about alignment; trust NOS Ford mounting holes/clips
10.Tighten belts
11.Upper Radiator hose
12.Upper Smog (Thermactor)
13.Fan Shroud decal

Hope this helps!

John Dettori                                      2001 SVT Cobra               
Smithtown, NY 11787  USA                       1986 Mustang SVO
 jdettori at optonline.net                             1970 Mustang Boss 302
Mustang Shelby Club of LI                       1967 Mustang GT Vert
MCA # 65589

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ben Witso" <benw at bgwcomp.com>
To: "John Dettori" <jdettori at optonline.net>
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: [CM] fan shroud installation


> You can with a box or open end wrench. Remove the fan, slide the  
> shroud on but don't mount it (slide it back toward the water pump),  
> re-attach the fan, then mount the shroud.
> 
> On May 18, 2009, at 10:15 AM, Brandon Peskin wrote:
> 
>> I thought about that initially, but I definitely wouldn't be able to
>> reach the bolts to re-attach it. Hmm...
>> On May 18, 2009, at 7:48 AM, Walt Boeninger wrote:
>>
>>> I would remove the fan alone as a start ......
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Classic-mustangs mailing list
>> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>>
>> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.336 / Virus Database: 270.12.33/2120 - Release Date: 05/18/09 06:28:00
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From W427 at comcast.net  Mon May 18 15:57:48 2009
From: W427 at comcast.net (David)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 11:57:48 -0700
Subject: [CM] fan shroud installation
In-Reply-To: <CA52FAB03D23463A9A5F4A04C3AC2350@dettori01>
References: <A39B6DF9-B572-45F9-AA04-3734F08F1B9A@peskin.org>	<4A11752B.5040106@boeninger.net>	<401183CB-2F61-49D9-9332-7B7430A798E4@peskin.org>	<1B7DFFEA-A6F0-4B04-ADD0-7D5D1FC22439@bgwcomp.com>
	<CA52FAB03D23463A9A5F4A04C3AC2350@dettori01>
Message-ID: <4A11AFAC.9090106@comcast.net>

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From jdettori at optonline.net  Mon May 18 21:01:07 2009
From: jdettori at optonline.net (John Dettori)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 20:01:07 -0400
Subject: [CM] fan shroud installation
References: <A39B6DF9-B572-45F9-AA04-3734F08F1B9A@peskin.org>
	<4A11752B.5040106@boeninger.net>
	<401183CB-2F61-49D9-9332-7B7430A798E4@peskin.org>
	<1B7DFFEA-A6F0-4B04-ADD0-7D5D1FC22439@bgwcomp.com>
	<CA52FAB03D23463A9A5F4A04C3AC2350@dettori01>
	<4A11AFAC.9090106@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D1E2A3D4F6954A6BA87E46C3BBE4F6B2@dettori01>

Ah Tetris! 
The only video game I actually like; maybe your reasoning is why!
John
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: David 
  To: John Dettori 
  Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 2:57 PM
  Subject: Re: [CM] fan shroud installation


  Agreed - in cases like this I usually put it all together with the radiator out and slide it in last.  Often easier to get to the bolts from the front that way.  Some installations are like Tetris. ;-)

  David

  John Dettori wrote: 
    6. Fan
    7. Radiator (with cardboard protecting the fins as you slide it into place); top bracket


------------------------------------------------------------------------------


  _______________________________________________
  Classic-mustangs mailing list
  Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
  http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

  Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/



------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
  Version: 8.5.336 / Virus Database: 270.12.34/2121 - Release Date: 05/18/09 17:55:00
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From forjp at videotron.ca  Mon May 18 22:26:24 2009
From: forjp at videotron.ca (Jean-Paul Fortier)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 21:26:24 -0400
Subject: [CM] E-MAIL LIST
Message-ID: <79DA23D93A6348EEA3C263B1B48D440F@PCdeAdmin>

Hi.
I would like to be removed from the e-mail list.
Thank you   
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From ckelly at raceabilene.com  Mon May 18 22:35:53 2009
From: ckelly at raceabilene.com (Chris Kelly)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 20:35:53 -0500
Subject: [CM] fan shroud installation
In-Reply-To: <4A117E7B.5060502@adc.com>
References: <4A117E7B.5060502@adc.com>
Message-ID: <004501c9d822$26fb2250$74f166f0$@com>

Oh, that's all backwards.  You just unbolt the engine and trans (4 bolts
total), slide them back, bolt on the shroud and slide the motor/trans back
in place.  Easy pie.  

OK - hit me. ;)

=====================================
 Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
 http://raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
          Merkel, Texas
             Member:
 International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
      Falcon Club of America
=====================================

> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-
> bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Rick Larson
> Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 10:28 AM
> To: Chris Kelly
> Subject: Re: [CM] fan shroud installation
> 
> Follow Ben's advice.  I just did this last week.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Ben
> Witso
> Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 10:19 AM
> To: Larson, Rick
> Subject: Re: [CM] fan shroud installation
> 
> You can with a box or open end wrench. Remove the fan, slide the shroud
> on but don't mount it (slide it back toward the water pump), re-attach
> the fan, then mount the shroud.
> 
> On May 18, 2009, at 10:15 AM, Brandon Peskin wrote:
> 
>  > I thought about that initially, but I definitely wouldn't be able to
>  > reach the bolts to re-attach it. Hmm...
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/


From mustang at peskin.org  Mon May 18 22:57:00 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 18:57:00 -0700
Subject: [CM] fan shroud installation
In-Reply-To: <004501c9d822$26fb2250$74f166f0$@com>
References: <4A117E7B.5060502@adc.com> <004501c9d822$26fb2250$74f166f0$@com>
Message-ID: <A777D6B8-5FA9-4014-9B2F-88B148E07E14@peskin.org>

Actually, I have those Ron Morris adjustable motor mounts. I might be  
able to slide the engine back slightly.
On May 18, 2009, at 6:35 PM, Chris Kelly wrote:

> Oh, that's all backwards.  You just unbolt the engine and trans (4  
> bolts
> total), slide them back, bolt on the shroud and slide the motor/ 
> trans back
> in place.  Easy pie.


From jeffsubs at shanholtz.com  Thu May 21 21:51:41 2009
From: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com (Jeff Shanholtz)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 17:51:41 -0700
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
Message-ID: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com>

I have a zune, but I imagine there are similar products/issues with ipods: I
got one of those fm transmitters for listening to it in my car, but the
reception is poor at best. It works fantastic in our Jeep Grand Cherokee
though, so it's not so much that the transmitter is bad or weak, but that my
metal dash is interfering with the reception. It's not even much better if I
put as much of the cord on the dash as possible (the transmitter antenna is
in the cord), giving it line of sight to the radio's antenna. I'm guessing
that even with line of sight, being right on top of the metal dash is enough
to interfere with the reception.

 

So the question is, does anyone here have some creative idea for getting
good reception with this device?

 

I'm almost thinking I should replace my stereo with one that has some sort
of line in, but if I can come up with a good solution with what I already
have, I'd certainly prefer that.

 

A picture of the item is here, and the wire that plugs into the zune has a
zune style connector, so doing a long extension cord routed strategically to
give better reception unfortunately isn't an option.
http://images3.store.microsoft.com/prod/clustera/productAssets/US/EN-US/Zune
_Car_Pack_V2/US_Prd_ss_full_Zune_Car_Pack_V2_wht-090217-1.jpg

 

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From mustangpaul at gmail.com  Thu May 21 22:00:55 2009
From: mustangpaul at gmail.com (Paul Sawyer)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 20:00:55 -0500
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com>
Message-ID: <929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com>

I have one for my iPod and it works very well in all of my cars.  In the
Mustang, I put in a Alpine Stereo in the glove box.  It has an AUX in, so
the iPod is hard wired in there.

What I'd do before I buy a new radio is see which is the BEST FM transmitter
for the Zune and try it.  There are good ones and bad ones--even from the
same company--for the iPod, so I'd guess that the same thing holds true for
the Zune.  If not, you can get a pretty inexpensive radio with a line in.
Mine ran less than 150 installed.

I kept the AM in the dash and the one in the box is hidden.

--P

On Thu, May 21, 2009 at 7:51 PM, Jeff Shanholtz <jeffsubs at shanholtz.com>wrote:

>  I have a zune, but I imagine there are similar products/issues with
> ipods: I got one of those fm transmitters for listening to it in my car, but
> the reception is poor at best. It works fantastic in our Jeep Grand Cherokee
> though, so it?s not so much that the transmitter is bad or weak, but that my
> metal dash is interfering with the reception. It?s not even much better if I
> put as much of the cord on the dash as possible (the transmitter antenna is
> in the cord), giving it line of sight to the radio?s antenna. I?m guessing
> that even with line of sight, being right on top of the metal dash is enough
> to interfere with the reception.
>
>
>
> So the question is, does anyone here have some creative idea for getting
> good reception with this device?
>
>
>
> I?m almost thinking I should replace my stereo with one that has some sort
> of line in, but if I can come up with a good solution with what I already
> have, I?d certainly prefer that.
>
>
>
> A picture of the item is here, and the wire that plugs into the zune has a
> zune style connector, so doing a long extension cord routed strategically to
> give better reception unfortunately isn?t an option.
> http://images3.store.microsoft.com/prod/clustera/productAssets/US/EN-US/Zune_Car_Pack_V2/US_Prd_ss_full_Zune_Car_Pack_V2_wht-090217-1.jpg
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/<http://sauce.donair.org/%7Ecm/>
>
>
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From mustang at peskin.org  Fri May 22 02:11:07 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 22:11:07 -0700
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com>
Message-ID: <0B85083F-50EC-43D8-8EF7-C292C0D889C2@peskin.org>

Is your Mustang concourse/correct?

You -dont- have the AM-only radio, right? ;)


On May 21, 2009, at 5:51 PM, Jeff Shanholtz wrote:

> I?m almost thinking I should replace my stereo with one that has  
> some sort of line in, but if I can come up with a good solution with  
> what I already have, I?d certainly prefer that.


From mustang at peskin.org  Fri May 22 02:13:35 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 22:13:35 -0700
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com>
	<929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1D66B3C7-5E2E-46FE-B4BD-40974A59C17C@peskin.org>

Unless you want one that "fits" in the stock AM radio hole, those  
start about $240.

There are base model units at the local electronics/car stereo stores  
now that can be had for under $50 that have aux inputs.


On May 21, 2009, at 6:00 PM, Paul Sawyer wrote:

>  Mine ran less than 150 installed.


From W427 at comcast.net  Fri May 22 02:45:42 2009
From: W427 at comcast.net (David)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 22:45:42 -0700
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com>
Message-ID: <4A163C06.9010306@comcast.net>

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From benw at bgwcomp.com  Fri May 22 03:31:13 2009
From: benw at bgwcomp.com (Ben Witso)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 01:31:13 -0500
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com>
	<929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <923D932F-C708-46DF-9210-B4E091EDE003@bgwcomp.com>

This is the best advice - I have a couple that I use on my iPods -  
and some work better than others for sure. The other weird thing is  
that some work better for certain radios. If yours has adjustable  
frequencies - try changing them on each radio to see what works best  
- what sounds good on one doesn't necessarily work on the next. It  
isn't your dash - there is plenty of other metal around the car that  
would get in the way too.

Ben

On May 21, 2009, at 8:00 PM, Paul Sawyer wrote:

> I have one for my iPod and it works very well in all of my cars.   
> In the Mustang, I put in a Alpine Stereo in the glove box.  It has  
> an AUX in, so the iPod is hard wired in there.
>
> What I'd do before I buy a new radio is see which is the BEST FM  
> transmitter for the Zune and try it.  There are good ones and bad  
> ones--even from the same company--for the iPod, so I'd guess that  
> the same thing holds true for the Zune.  If not, you can get a  
> pretty inexpensive radio with a line in.  Mine ran less than 150  
> installed.
>
> I kept the AM in the dash and the one in the box is hidden.
>
> --P
>
> On Thu, May 21, 2009 at 7:51 PM, Jeff Shanholtz  
> <jeffsubs at shanholtz.com> wrote:
> I have a zune, but I imagine there are similar products/issues with  
> ipods: I got one of those fm transmitters for listening to it in my  
> car, but the reception is poor at best. It works fantastic in our  
> Jeep Grand Cherokee though, so it?s not so much that the  
> transmitter is bad or weak, but that my metal dash is interfering  
> with the reception. It?s not even much better if I put as much of  
> the cord on the dash as possible (the transmitter antenna is in the  
> cord), giving it line of sight to the radio?s antenna. I?m guessing  
> that even with line of sight, being right on top of the metal dash  
> is enough to interfere with the reception.
>
>
> So the question is, does anyone here have some creative idea for  
> getting good reception with this device?
>
>
> I?m almost thinking I should replace my stereo with one that has  
> some sort of line in, but if I can come up with a good solution  
> with what I already have, I?d certainly prefer that.
>
>
> A picture of the item is here, and the wire that plugs into the  
> zune has a zune style connector, so doing a long extension cord  
> routed strategically to give better reception unfortunately isn?t  
> an option. http://images3.store.microsoft.com/prod/clustera/ 
> productAssets/US/EN-US/Zune_Car_Pack_V2/ 
> US_Prd_ss_full_Zune_Car_Pack_V2_wht-090217-1.jpg
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

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From jlennard at gmail.com  Fri May 22 03:37:09 2009
From: jlennard at gmail.com (Jonathan Lennard)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 06:37:09 +0000
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <923D932F-C708-46DF-9210-B4E091EDE003@bgwcomp.com>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com><929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com><923D932F-C708-46DF-9210-B4E091EDE003@bgwcomp.com>
Message-ID: <1260385069-1242974272-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1091514976-@bxe1083.bisx.produk.on.blackberry>

I have an Alpine with Ipod interface in my 67..I can live with hand crank windows..no air..but I can't sacrifice the music while driving my 67..with regards to transmitters..there is no comparison with a hardwire...its worth every penny.
Jonathan Lennard
tel: +33612067942
jonathan at jonathanlennard.com
visit www.jonathanlennard.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Ben Witso <benw at bgwcomp.com>

Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 01:31:13 
To: johhney<jlennard at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters


_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/



From Lance at Robaldo.com  Fri May 22 07:48:23 2009
From: Lance at Robaldo.com (Lance Robaldo)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 06:48:23 -0400
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com>
Message-ID: <006401c9daca$d74b3910$85e1ab30$@com>

I use this one from the C. Crane company:

http://www.ccrane.com/radios/fm-transmitters/fm-transmitter.aspx  It is
easily picked up by my car (and any other car that happens to be tuned to
the right frequency within about ? mile.)

 

It?s a little steeper in price than the others, but it has a substantially
more powerful transmitter than the others.  

 

In fact it?s powerful enough that at Christmas time it broadcasts my Music
so that passing cars can tune-in to my ?Musical Light Show?!!!  (yeah, I?m
the local version of Mr. Griswold)  Wow, it?s almost June!  I?ve gotta start
planning things for this year?s display!

 

Lance.

 

 

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Jeff
Shanholtz
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 8:52 PM
To: Lance at robaldo.com
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters

 

I have a zune, but I imagine there are similar products/issues with ipods: I
got one of those fm transmitters for listening to it in my car, but the
reception is poor at best. It works fantastic in our Jeep Grand Cherokee
though, so it?s not so much that the transmitter is bad or weak, but that my
metal dash is interfering with the reception. It?s not even much better if I
put as much of the cord on the dash as possible (the transmitter antenna is
in the cord), giving it line of sight to the radio?s antenna. I?m guessing
that even with line of sight, being right on top of the metal dash is enough
to interfere with the reception.

 

So the question is, does anyone here have some creative idea for getting
good reception with this device?

 

I?m almost thinking I should replace my stereo with one that has some sort
of line in, but if I can come up with a good solution with what I already
have, I?d certainly prefer that.

 

A picture of the item is here, and the wire that plugs into the zune has a
zune style connector, so doing a long extension cord routed strategically to
give better reception unfortunately isn?t an option.
http://images3.store.microsoft.com/prod/clustera/productAssets/US/EN-US/Zune
_Car_Pack_V2/US_Prd_ss_full_Zune_Car_Pack_V2_wht-090217-1.jpg

 

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From keven at ti.com  Fri May 22 10:29:01 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 08:29:01 -0500
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311DDB3@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

If you're in the market for a new car stereo, I'd get one that connects with an ipod interface.  The sound quality is so much better, and the best part is you can control your iPod like you're pushing iPod buttons when you push the radio buttons.  I have the JVC HDR1.  It's excellent.  It's got HD radio, which is great because most stations (in Houston anyway) are in HD and most have a second channel that's commercial free.  Also for less than $50 I got an iPod interface and hid my iPod somewhere in the car.  Now I've got all my music and complete control for about $200.  I've had mine for about 2 years.  I was so impressed I bought another one for my Toyota.  I'm sure there are others that will do the same thing though.

If you listen to your ipod through FM, it's still FM.  You can get good reception with some tricks (that have been mentioned), but it's not going to be the same quality.

Keven
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From jeffsubs at shanholtz.com  Fri May 22 22:42:17 2009
From: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com (Jeff Shanholtz)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 18:42:17 -0700
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <1260385069-1242974272-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1091514976-@bxe1083.bisx.produk.on.blackberry>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com><929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com><923D932F-C708-46DF-9210-B4E091EDE003@bgwcomp.com>
	<1260385069-1242974272-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1091514976-@bxe1083.bisx.produk.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <01d701c9db47$b4de7a90$1e9b6fb0$@com>

Interesting suggestions guys. These will give me some things to consider for
sure.

I did mention I have a Zune, so stereos with ipod interfaces don't help me.
:) That thought did occur to me though - I have no idea if there are stereos
with zune interfaces or not. That would be cool, though I'm definitely not
looking to spend a big wad of cash.

The suggestion of an antenna inside the car is perhaps what I'm most
intrigued by. I don't want to give up the real antenna just for this, but if
there was some kind of antenna switcher product (cheap), I'd certainly
consider that. Is there such a thing?

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Jonathan
Lennard
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 11:37 PM
To: Jeff Shanholtz
Subject: Re: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters

I have an Alpine with Ipod interface in my 67..I can live with hand crank
windows..no air..but I can't sacrifice the music while driving my 67..with
regards to transmitters..there is no comparison with a hardwire...its worth
every penny.
Jonathan Lennard
tel: +33612067942
jonathan at jonathanlennard.com
visit www.jonathanlennard.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Ben Witso <benw at bgwcomp.com>

Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 01:31:13 
To: johhney<jlennard at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters


_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/


_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/


From keven at ti.com  Sat May 23 03:23:38 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 01:23:38 -0500
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <01d701c9db47$b4de7a90$1e9b6fb0$@com>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com><929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com><923D932F-C708-46DF-9210-B4E091EDE003@bgwcomp.com>
	<1260385069-1242974272-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1091514976-@bxe1083.bisx.produk.on.blackberry>
	<01d701c9db47$b4de7a90$1e9b6fb0$@com>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E337@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

There may be Zune interfaces.  I'm not sure how cheap they would be.  You did mention that, but I forgot.

FM antenna switcher?  Unlikely.  Radio waves are hard to contain electrically and the switcher would have to be specially designed (much more than a regular switch) and probably wouldn't be cheap.  Diversity systems exist (which are electrically operated switchers), but they wouldn't be cheap either.

Your best bet is probably to try to find a more powerful transmitter.  I haven't had great luck with them either, but I've only tried a few.

Keven

From mustang at peskin.org  Sat May 23 03:57:34 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 23:57:34 -0700
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <01d701c9db47$b4de7a90$1e9b6fb0$@com>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com><929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com><923D932F-C708-46DF-9210-B4E091EDE003@bgwcomp.com>
	<1260385069-1242974272-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1091514976-@bxe1083.bisx.produk.on.blackberry>
	<01d701c9db47$b4de7a90$1e9b6fb0$@com>
Message-ID: <DBD26BE3-D46E-4D3A-A270-658462F8A5AF@peskin.org>

Generally speaking, when we say "ipod interface" some of us usually  
mean "the stereo has two RCA aux inputs on the back of it, or a 1/8"  
stereo connector on the front". Both of these would work with your Zune.

My Custom Autosound USA-5 has the RCA's on the back, which I run a 3  
foot RCA-to-1/8" Y adapter to my plug-n-play Belkin iPod charger/ 
player into a 12v socket I've installed at the bottom of the dash. The  
Belkin portion is the only thing proprietary to the ipod itself. I've  
actually connected it upto my laptop to listen to streaming radio at  
some point while working on the car itself.
On May 22, 2009, at 6:42 PM, Jeff Shanholtz wrote:

> I did mention I have a Zune, so stereos with ipod interfaces don't  
> help me.


From jeffsubs at shanholtz.com  Sat May 23 04:27:51 2009
From: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com (Jeff Shanholtz)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 00:27:51 -0700
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <DBD26BE3-D46E-4D3A-A270-658462F8A5AF@peskin.org>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com><929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com><923D932F-C708-46DF-9210-B4E091EDE003@bgwcomp.com>
	<1260385069-1242974272-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1091514976-@bxe1083.bisx.produk.on.blackberry>
	<01d701c9db47$b4de7a90$1e9b6fb0$@com>
	<DBD26BE3-D46E-4D3A-A270-658462F8A5AF@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <01fe01c9db77$fb0575c0$f1106140$@com>

I know that some car stereos will actually control your ipod, so that's why
I made the distinction that I have a zune.

Anyway, I just settled on my solution. I just ordered an Eclipse CD3414G to
replace my CD3414 - you read that right, the only difference is the "G"! I
like my stereo a lot, but the only thing it lacks that this updated version
has is the line in. I like the fact that it's not a bling radio - it's
simple and clean looking, with just the right number of features, and it has
great sound. All that for $75 shipped. :)

In addition, I'm getting a zune docking station ($18 shipped) that will plug
into the line in, and has a usb cable for power, which I'll plug into my cig
lighter to usb power plug. And in fact I'll probably take it apart so I can
just hard wire it into my secondary fuse panel rather than installing some
behind the dash cig lighter outlet. Best part about the docking station is
the trivial hook up, and not having to let it dangle from an fm transmitter
cable! And if for some reason I don't like this in the mustang, I'll use it
at work instead.

So a bit more than I initially wanted to spend, but I think I'll be very
happy with the result. And my wife gets the fm transmitter for her zune in
our Jeep (like I said it works GREAT in the jeep) so she's happy too. :)

I appreciate all the input - it helped me a lot in my decision.

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Brandon
Peskin
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 11:58 PM
To: Jeff Shanholtz
Subject: Re: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters

Generally speaking, when we say "ipod interface" some of us usually  
mean "the stereo has two RCA aux inputs on the back of it, or a 1/8"  
stereo connector on the front". Both of these would work with your Zune.

My Custom Autosound USA-5 has the RCA's on the back, which I run a 3  
foot RCA-to-1/8" Y adapter to my plug-n-play Belkin iPod charger/ 
player into a 12v socket I've installed at the bottom of the dash. The  
Belkin portion is the only thing proprietary to the ipod itself. I've  
actually connected it upto my laptop to listen to streaming radio at  
some point while working on the car itself.
On May 22, 2009, at 6:42 PM, Jeff Shanholtz wrote:

> I did mention I have a Zune, so stereos with ipod interfaces don't  
> help me.

_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/


From JCool289 at aol.com  Sat May 23 09:59:04 2009
From: JCool289 at aol.com (Jason)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 08:59:04 -0400
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com><929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com><923D932F-C708-46DF-9210-B4E091EDE003@bgwcomp.com><1260385069-1242974272-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1091514976-@bxe1083.bisx.produk.on.blackberry><01d701c9db47$b4de7a90$1e9b6fb0$@com>
	<8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E337@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <9B45793E93F1463FB2DEDB5B13A9276C@home2f1db246f2>

i had the opposite problem , two radios , one antenna. i wanted to use my 
main antenna for the modern radio i mounted in my console , and still have 
the original AM radio working in the dash. i took psrts from old radios. a 
female antenna plug for the antenna to plug into, wired to two male antenna 
plugs (one for each radio). works great. maybe you could do a version of 
this to work for your situation ???

Jason
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Coates, Keven" <keven at ti.com>
To: <JCOOL289 at aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 2:23 AM
Subject: Re: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters


> There may be Zune interfaces.  I'm not sure how cheap they would be.  You 
> did mention that, but I forgot.
>
> FM antenna switcher?  Unlikely.  Radio waves are hard to contain 
> electrically and the switcher would have to be specially designed (much 
> more than a regular switch) and probably wouldn't be cheap.  Diversity 
> systems exist (which are electrically operated switchers), but they 
> wouldn't be cheap either.
>
> Your best bet is probably to try to find a more powerful transmitter.  I 
> haven't had great luck with them either, but I've only tried a few.
>
> Keven
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> 


From brandon at peskin.org  Tue May 26 02:52:52 2009
From: brandon at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 22:52:52 -0700
Subject: [CM] Fan shroud mounting issues (could also be dumb mechanic issues)
Message-ID: <4805827B-1182-459E-A67B-6BFD9BF8C0A3@peskin.org>

Figured I'd start digging into the parts I just received and install  
my fan shroud today.

Instructions say to take radiator out (all of you say take the fan  
out). Figured I needed to do both to change over to a chrome  
alternator bracket I've had sitting in the garage for a few years,  
flush out the cooling system (been almost 4  years) and so I did.

Problem is that I can't figure out how the fan shroud brackets attach  
to the radiator. I seem to have figured out their orientation but am  
stumped on the attachment point to the radiator.

I have this shroud:

http://tinyurl.com/qyvkqs

and this mounting kit:

http://tinyurl.com/r8s9p3

I understand the screw clips fit into the smaller holes in the  
brackets (or so I hope) and I understand the orientation of the  
brackets in relation to the radiator mounting holes -- I just don't  
understand how to attach the brackets to the mounting points on the  
radiator (I've got the screw clips in the mounting holes there, too)

Any help would be appreciated. I can't seem to find my Chiltons manual  
(and I thought there was a diagram in there).

Sometimes I dislike Scott Drake products for this very reason (they  
come with little-to-no-documentation whatsoever).



I'm sure I'll have an issue with my chrome cylinder overflow tank too  
- but that's something I can figure out.



From brandon at peskin.org  Tue May 26 02:54:07 2009
From: brandon at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 22:54:07 -0700
Subject: [CM] Gasket sealer on the C4 pan gasket?
Message-ID: <50419ECE-3B96-45DE-9418-51185AD13B34@peskin.org>

I've got a rubber-looking gasket to go with my new transmission pan.  
Does anyone know if this seal requires gasket sealer or is the rubber  
gasket torqued between the metal pan and transmission body good enough?

From mkupec at blueovalcorral.com  Tue May 26 11:04:54 2009
From: mkupec at blueovalcorral.com (Michael J. Kupec)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 10:04:54 -0400
Subject: [CM] Gasket sealer on the C4 pan gasket?
In-Reply-To: <50419ECE-3B96-45DE-9418-51185AD13B34@peskin.org>
References: <50419ECE-3B96-45DE-9418-51185AD13B34@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <6FF0C136B3614331B72CEC19200E499E@thunkpudborg>

Lay it out in the sun to warm up and flatten out (if you have sunshine
today) then using dental floss, tie the gasket to the pan using the bolt
holes. Just needs enough points to hold the gasket to the pan in order to
get the two onto the trans. 

FWIW - last pan gasket I did, the holes were slightly smaller than the
bolts. That allowed me to use the bolts pushed through the pan holes and
then through the gasket to hold everything together. Just shows an engineer
with some experience was actually th8inking the day he liad out that gasket
pattern. Quite unusual in todays automotive industry!

Michael J. Kupec
mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
http://www.blueovalcorral.com

Everything I say is fully substantiated by my own opinion!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca 
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On 
> Behalf Of Brandon Peskin
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 1:54 AM
> To: Michael J. Kupec
> Subject: [CM] Gasket sealer on the C4 pan gasket?
> 
> I've got a rubber-looking gasket to go with my new transmission pan.  
> Does anyone know if this seal requires gasket sealer or is 
> the rubber gasket torqued between the metal pan and 
> transmission body good enough?
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> 


From W427 at comcast.net  Tue May 26 11:16:08 2009
From: W427 at comcast.net (David)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 07:16:08 -0700
Subject: [CM] Gasket sealer on the C4 pan gasket?
In-Reply-To: <50419ECE-3B96-45DE-9418-51185AD13B34@peskin.org>
References: <50419ECE-3B96-45DE-9418-51185AD13B34@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <4A1BF9A8.7020509@comcast.net>

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From keven at ti.com  Tue May 26 11:38:37 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 09:38:37 -0500
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <DBD26BE3-D46E-4D3A-A270-658462F8A5AF@peskin.org>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com><929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com><923D932F-C708-46DF-9210-B4E091EDE003@bgwcomp.com>
	<1260385069-1242974272-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1091514976-@bxe1083.bisx.produk.on.blackberry>
	<01d701c9db47$b4de7a90$1e9b6fb0$@com>
	<DBD26BE3-D46E-4D3A-A270-658462F8A5AF@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E7F0@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

>Generally speaking, when we say "ipod interface" some of us usually  
mean "the stereo has two RCA aux inputs on the back of it,

That would be just a line in (obviously).  I used to do it that way, and actually my Mustang is still wired like that, but all my daily drivers have an iPod hidden somewhere in the car that's wired.  That way I don't have to take my eyes off the road much to see what's playing or change songs.  It's really awesome since they all have all my music on it, so I can take it with me and access it all from the stereo.  Usually I just have it on random (on my playlist, since my wife likes country, and I'm not a big fan) and it's like my own radio station.

If you get your iPod on ebay like I did, for ~$100 you've got 40 GB of storage (enough for a heck of a lot of CDs) that plugs into your $200 car stereo and for $300 total (plus speakers and amp if you want one) you've got all your music with you all the time.  It's pretty nice.

Jason, I'm glad you found a good solution.  That does sound like it will work out nicely.  You'll enjoy the direct line in.  It sounds so much better than FM.

Keven

From mustang at peskin.org  Tue May 26 12:17:33 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 08:17:33 -0700
Subject: [CM] Gasket sealer on the C4 pan gasket?
In-Reply-To: <4A1BF9A8.7020509@comcast.net>
References: <50419ECE-3B96-45DE-9418-51185AD13B34@peskin.org>
	<4A1BF9A8.7020509@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A9366BA1-8B0F-44EB-AD41-EDF5627DE642@peskin.org>

Brand new pan so I hope not.

Thanks!
On May 26, 2009, at 7:16 AM, David wrote:

> If it does leak, it has been over-torqued in the past and has bent  
> the pan rail, or has warped.


From mustang at peskin.org  Tue May 26 12:20:27 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 08:20:27 -0700
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E7F0@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com><929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com><923D932F-C708-46DF-9210-B4E091EDE003@bgwcomp.com>
	<1260385069-1242974272-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1091514976-@bxe1083.bisx.produk.on.blackberry>
	<01d701c9db47$b4de7a90$1e9b6fb0$@com>
	<DBD26BE3-D46E-4D3A-A270-658462F8A5AF@peskin.org>
	<8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E7F0@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <7CE573A1-A652-422D-87D6-CCF7730C1CF2@peskin.org>

Err.

A bit confusing. :)

You 'used' to have an FM transmitter and now have a hardwire? Or you  
have the fancier setup that allows you to change tracks and what not  
through the head unit?

On May 26, 2009, at 7:38 AM, Coates, Keven wrote:

>  I used to do it that way, and actually my Mustang is still wired  
> like that, but all my daily drivers have an iPod hidden somewhere in  
> the car that's wired.


From mkupec at blueovalcorral.com  Tue May 26 12:27:31 2009
From: mkupec at blueovalcorral.com (Michael J. Kupec)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 11:27:31 -0400
Subject: [CM] Gasket sealer on the C4 pan gasket?
In-Reply-To: <A9366BA1-8B0F-44EB-AD41-EDF5627DE642@peskin.org>
References: <50419ECE-3B96-45DE-9418-51185AD13B34@peskin.org><4A1BF9A8.7020509@comcast.net>
	<A9366BA1-8B0F-44EB-AD41-EDF5627DE642@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <DB7AA35A56C54D84AF2C13E07A90B7AC@thunkpudborg>

If it's one of those cast pans, be very cautious with torque tightness on
the pan bolts. I've seen a lot of these break the sides off because of
excess torque. 

Cast pans look cute on show cars, but have no business on daily drivers. Any
claimed attempts at cooling because of the fins can be better done with a
stacked plate trans cooler. I'm not saying that is what you have since you
didn't mention if it is a cast pan or not, but if it is cast, just be
careful.

Michael J. Kupec
mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
http://www.blueovalcorral.com

Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca 
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On 
> Behalf Of Brandon Peskin
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 11:18 AM
> To: Michael J. Kupec
> Subject: Re: [CM] Gasket sealer on the C4 pan gasket?
> 
> Brand new pan so I hope not.
> 
> Thanks!
> On May 26, 2009, at 7:16 AM, David wrote:
> 
> > If it does leak, it has been over-torqued in the past and 
> has bent the 
> > pan rail, or has warped.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> 


From mustang at peskin.org  Tue May 26 12:41:06 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 08:41:06 -0700
Subject: [CM] Gasket sealer on the C4 pan gasket?
In-Reply-To: <DB7AA35A56C54D84AF2C13E07A90B7AC@thunkpudborg>
References: <50419ECE-3B96-45DE-9418-51185AD13B34@peskin.org><4A1BF9A8.7020509@comcast.net>
	<A9366BA1-8B0F-44EB-AD41-EDF5627DE642@peskin.org>
	<DB7AA35A56C54D84AF2C13E07A90B7AC@thunkpudborg>
Message-ID: <6DF24FF1-6F43-4F78-B3AC-7474A31C5321@peskin.org>

Not a cast pan here. Just a standard chrome-plated pan with a drain  
plug.

On May 26, 2009, at 8:27 AM, Michael J. Kupec wrote:

> Cast pans look cute on show cars, but have no business on daily  
> drivers. Any
> claimed attempts at cooling because of the fins can be better done  
> with a
> stacked plate trans cooler. I'm not saying that is what you have  
> since you
> didn't mention if it is a cast pan or not, but if it is cast, just be
> careful.


From mustang at peskin.org  Tue May 26 12:42:14 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 08:42:14 -0700
Subject: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
Message-ID: <1C78B2C7-86E6-4C8A-8397-1741FBC6351B@peskin.org>

Now that I've got my radiator out, and I will be replacing my C4  
transmission pan in the next few days I think I'm going to go the  
extra mile for my C4 and get a transmission cooler.

Any recommendations? Where is a good place to mount one of these? Any  
advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

From keven at ti.com  Tue May 26 13:06:40 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 11:06:40 -0500
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <7CE573A1-A652-422D-87D6-CCF7730C1CF2@peskin.org>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com><929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com><923D932F-C708-46DF-9210-B4E091EDE003@bgwcomp.com>
	<1260385069-1242974272-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1091514976-@bxe1083.bisx.produk.on.blackberry>
	<01d701c9db47$b4de7a90$1e9b6fb0$@com>
	<DBD26BE3-D46E-4D3A-A270-658462F8A5AF@peskin.org>
	<8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E7F0@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
	<7CE573A1-A652-422D-87D6-CCF7730C1CF2@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E993@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

Sorry.  I drove my '68 Mustang as a daily driver with a line in that I wired my iPod to.  Two years ago I bought a '91 Miata (ohh, the heresy!) as my daily driver since I drive 50 miles/day and gas was getting expensive.  

Since it had no stereo, I bought the JVC-HDR1 with an iPod interface so I can control the iPod through the stereo.

So I have both, but the only reason my Mustang doesn't have a stereo with the iPod interface is that it's already got a line in (which is good enough for an occasional driver) and is a great stereo and looks really nice with the interior (brushed aluminum), or will, once I get the interior in.

I'm an audiophile, although that part of my life is currently in recession, but still I have no patience for bad sound.  I couldn't deal with a fuzzy FM modulator for long.

Keven


From mkupec at blueovalcorral.com  Tue May 26 13:17:02 2009
From: mkupec at blueovalcorral.com (Michael J. Kupec)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 12:17:02 -0400
Subject: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
In-Reply-To: <1C78B2C7-86E6-4C8A-8397-1741FBC6351B@peskin.org>
References: <1C78B2C7-86E6-4C8A-8397-1741FBC6351B@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <367E96CF75C04466BE0DF6E69A26B185@thunkpudborg>

Stacked plate coolers are more efficient than the old condenser coil type
coolers. First one listed in this link is a good kit at a decent price:
http://www.jegs.com/p/B-M/B-M-SuperCooler-Transmission-Cooler/758370/10002/-
1

I've installed several on friends auto's over the years that is similar in
size to this kit, plus I have this same kit on our Expedition to supplement
the built in radiator trans cooler. 

For plumbing it, I run the trans oil through this cooler first then through
the radiator cooler. You can get trans oil as hot as 300+ degrees which
doesn't help the radiator much with cooling the engine! Sending it through
the external cooler first then through the radiator insures the oil is at a
suitable temp for the trans, even during winter driving. 

Michael J. Kupec
mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
http://www.blueovalcorral.com

A team effort is a lot of people doing what I say. 
 


 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca 
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On 
> Behalf Of Brandon Peskin
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 11:42 AM
> To: Michael J. Kupec
> Subject: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
> 
> Now that I've got my radiator out, and I will be replacing my 
> C4 transmission pan in the next few days I think I'm going to 
> go the extra mile for my C4 and get a transmission cooler.
> 
> Any recommendations? Where is a good place to mount one of 
> these? Any advice would be much appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> 


From mustang at peskin.org  Tue May 26 13:18:35 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 09:18:35 -0700
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E993@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com><929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com><923D932F-C708-46DF-9210-B4E091EDE003@bgwcomp.com>
	<1260385069-1242974272-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1091514976-@bxe1083.bisx.produk.on.blackberry>
	<01d701c9db47$b4de7a90$1e9b6fb0$@com>
	<DBD26BE3-D46E-4D3A-A270-658462F8A5AF@peskin.org>
	<8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E7F0@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
	<7CE573A1-A652-422D-87D6-CCF7730C1CF2@peskin.org>
	<8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E993@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <7D91BCE8-3B1F-48D6-A783-1922B5D044D4@peskin.org>

Don't be ashamed. We bought a 2008 Miata a few weeks ago. I work in  
San Francisco and nominally take BART to work. My girlfriend will be  
starting at the culinary academy in SF in July. BART for one beats the  
cost of driving to the city for one person. BART for two does not.  
Having a two-seater with two people in it means we don't pay the $4.00  
toll every morning across the Bay Bridge either (and can use the HOV/ 
carpool lanes)

I just ordered an audiolink unit for the Miata. Pull the head unit,  
affix this little device to the CD changer input and away we go. Lets  
you change iPod tracks with the steering wheel and head unit controls.

My Mustang still has the line-in method but CAS makes an iPod  
interface for it for about $100. Auto starts the iPod when the radio  
is powered up too so you can theoretically pretend you're Christine if  
your remote keyless entry has an extra channel to flip on the radio.


On May 26, 2009, at 9:06 AM, Coates, Keven wrote:

> Sorry.  I drove my '68 Mustang as a daily driver with a line in that  
> I wired my iPod to.  Two years ago I bought a '91 Miata (ohh, the  
> heresy!) as my daily driver since I drive 50 miles/day and gas was  
> getting expensive.


From mustang at peskin.org  Tue May 26 13:19:58 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 09:19:58 -0700
Subject: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
In-Reply-To: <367E96CF75C04466BE0DF6E69A26B185@thunkpudborg>
References: <1C78B2C7-86E6-4C8A-8397-1741FBC6351B@peskin.org>
	<367E96CF75C04466BE0DF6E69A26B185@thunkpudborg>
Message-ID: <674056A9-F4D8-4879-BE14-AD187C02551B@peskin.org>

What is the benefit of sending it to the radiator AFTER the cooler? I  
was under the impression I should just cap off the radiator cooler  
inlet/outlet when I ran an external transmission cooler.

On May 26, 2009, at 9:17 AM, Michael J. Kupec wrote:

> For plumbing it, I run the trans oil through this cooler first then  
> through
> the radiator cooler. You can get trans oil as hot as 300+ degrees  
> which
> doesn't help the radiator much with cooling the engine! Sending it  
> through
> the external cooler first then through the radiator insures the oil  
> is at a
> suitable temp for the trans, even during winter driving.


From mkupec at blueovalcorral.com  Tue May 26 13:30:13 2009
From: mkupec at blueovalcorral.com (Michael J. Kupec)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 12:30:13 -0400
Subject: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
In-Reply-To: <674056A9-F4D8-4879-BE14-AD187C02551B@peskin.org>
References: <1C78B2C7-86E6-4C8A-8397-1741FBC6351B@peskin.org><367E96CF75C04466BE0DF6E69A26B185@thunkpudborg>
	<674056A9-F4D8-4879-BE14-AD187C02551B@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <2B5FC857921641C782697ECDBF35944A@thunkpudborg>

Way it was explained to me was that in winter time, you could cool the fluid
down too much, especially with a stacked plate cooler. They apparently are
that efficient! By routing it through the radiator cooler afterwards, you
preheat it to a good working temp, just in case the stacked plate cooler has
cooled it down too much. 

Michael J. Kupec
mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
http://www.blueovalcorral.com

I work for the fun of it.
    It sure ain't for the pay!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca 
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On 
> Behalf Of Brandon Peskin
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 12:20 PM
> To: Michael J. Kupec
> Subject: Re: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
> 
> What is the benefit of sending it to the radiator AFTER the 
> cooler? I was under the impression I should just cap off the 
> radiator cooler inlet/outlet when I ran an external 
> transmission cooler.
> 
> On May 26, 2009, at 9:17 AM, Michael J. Kupec wrote:
> 
> > For plumbing it, I run the trans oil through this cooler first then 
> > through the radiator cooler. You can get trans oil as hot as 300+ 
> > degrees which doesn't help the radiator much with cooling 
> the engine! 
> > Sending it through the external cooler first then through 
> the radiator 
> > insures the oil is at a suitable temp for the trans, even during 
> > winter driving.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> 


From keven at ti.com  Tue May 26 13:30:58 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 11:30:58 -0500
Subject: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
In-Reply-To: <674056A9-F4D8-4879-BE14-AD187C02551B@peskin.org>
References: <1C78B2C7-86E6-4C8A-8397-1741FBC6351B@peskin.org>
	<367E96CF75C04466BE0DF6E69A26B185@thunkpudborg>
	<674056A9-F4D8-4879-BE14-AD187C02551B@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E9FB@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

You don't want your oil (all your oil, including the tranny fluid which is lubricant and hydraulic fluid) too hot, but you don't want it too cold either.  

The racing guys say ~90 C (194 F) is optimal for standard oil, and I'd guess tranny fluid would be about the same.  The radiator would warm up the fluid in the winter and provide some added level of temp control in the summer.

Cop cars often have oil/water heat exchangers for the same reason.

Keven

From ckelly at raceabilene.com  Tue May 26 14:04:20 2009
From: ckelly at raceabilene.com (raceabilene)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 12:04:20 -0500
Subject: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
In-Reply-To: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E9FB@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
References: <1C78B2C7-86E6-4C8A-8397-1741FBC6351B@peskin.org>
	<367E96CF75C04466BE0DF6E69A26B185@thunkpudborg>
	<674056A9-F4D8-4879-BE14-AD187C02551B@peskin.org>
	<8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E9FB@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <974F1ECB-6386-420F-A7D0-50F2E77CD4DB@raceabilene.com>

IMHO trans fluid will not stay cold for long, without regard to the  
type or size of the cooler.  So I wouldn't worry  too much about the  
temp- unless it's a really cold climate.  On the flip, if you ever saw  
it at 300F the trans is probably already dead.  I like to have the  
race trans at 100 to maybe 150 at staging and never over 200.  I use  
quart larger cast pans on both cars and they do radiate heat out of  
the trans quite effectively, especially sitting.  It is not unusual to  
see 100F drop out in under 30 minutes.

I glue the gasket to the pan and make sure the trans flange is clean  
and dry. I use pans with thick flanges and 15 ft/lbs with locktite.  I  
hate stamped steel pans, rather pay big money for a cast.  No leaks,  
bent flanges, etc.

On May 26, 2009, at 11:30 AM, "Coates, Keven" <keven at ti.com> wrote:

> You don't want your oil (all your oil, including the tranny fluid  
> which is lubricant and hydraulic fluid) too hot, but you don't want  
> it too cold either.
>
> The racing guys say ~90 C (194 F) is optimal for standard oil, and  
> I'd guess tranny fluid would be about the same.  The radiator would  
> warm up the fluid in the winter and provide some added level of temp  
> control in the summer.
>
> Cop cars often have oil/water heat exchangers for the same reason.
>
> Keven
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

From mkupec at blueovalcorral.com  Tue May 26 16:45:17 2009
From: mkupec at blueovalcorral.com (Michael J. Kupec)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 15:45:17 -0400
Subject: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
In-Reply-To: <974F1ECB-6386-420F-A7D0-50F2E77CD4DB@raceabilene.com>
References: <1C78B2C7-86E6-4C8A-8397-1741FBC6351B@peskin.org><367E96CF75C04466BE0DF6E69A26B185@thunkpudborg><674056A9-F4D8-4879-BE14-AD187C02551B@peskin.org><8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E9FB@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
	<974F1ECB-6386-420F-A7D0-50F2E77CD4DB@raceabilene.com>
Message-ID: <BE7B79F863464BF7960949A8612A27F6@thunkpudborg>

This is what happens when I don't proof-read what I type, prior to sending!
Blame it on the fact that the "3" is too stinking close to the "2" on the
keyboard! (Yeah, that's it!)

Ideally, trans fluid should be no more than 195F, but with today's engine
cooling system it can get as high as 230-240 on a hot summer's day. That's
not good for trany fluid since above 250 degrees, rubber seals start to
harden which causes leaks and pressure losses. 

Today with the typical engine thermostat being 192F degrees, a pressurized
cooling system capable of allowing the coolant temp to get up to 240
degrees, with a radiator typically at a bare minimum size for cooling, it's
not hard to see the trans fluid being maintained above that 195F. You'd
think that because of this, your auto manufacturer would quit using the in
tank cooling method for the trans and just put in a stacked plate cooler,
but it's a cost thing in that the in tank cooler is just cheaper to
implement. 

Now, next thing to discuss is, where do you put the temp sender if you wish
to monitor your trans temp? Varying answers have been: in the oil pan, on
the line feeding the cooler or on the return line from the cooler to the
trans. What's your preference?

Michael J. Kupec
mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
http://www.blueovalcorral.com

Youth would be an ideal state if it came a little later in life. ~Herbert
Henry Asquith

> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca 
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On 
> Behalf Of raceabilene
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 1:04 PM
> To: Michael J. Kupec
> Subject: Re: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
> 
> IMHO trans fluid will not stay cold for long, without regard 
> to the type or size of the cooler.  So I wouldn't worry  too 
> much about the
> temp- unless it's a really cold climate.  On the flip, if you 
> ever saw it at 300F the trans is probably already dead.  I 
> like to have the race trans at 100 to maybe 150 at staging 
> and never over 200.  I use quart larger cast pans on both 
> cars and they do radiate heat out of the trans quite 
> effectively, especially sitting.  It is not unusual to see 
> 100F drop out in under 30 minutes.
> 
> I glue the gasket to the pan and make sure the trans flange 
> is clean and dry. I use pans with thick flanges and 15 ft/lbs 
> with locktite.  I hate stamped steel pans, rather pay big 
> money for a cast.  No leaks, bent flanges, etc.
> 
> On May 26, 2009, at 11:30 AM, "Coates, Keven" <keven at ti.com> wrote:
> 
> > You don't want your oil (all your oil, including the tranny fluid 
> > which is lubricant and hydraulic fluid) too hot, but you 
> don't want it 
> > too cold either.
> >
> > The racing guys say ~90 C (194 F) is optimal for standard 
> oil, and I'd 
> > guess tranny fluid would be about the same.  The radiator 
> would warm 
> > up the fluid in the winter and provide some added level of temp 
> > control in the summer.
> >
> > Cop cars often have oil/water heat exchangers for the same reason.
> >
> > Keven
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classic-mustangs mailing list
> > Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> > http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> >
> > Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> 


From jkessell at mac.com  Tue May 26 20:28:15 2009
From: jkessell at mac.com (James Kessell)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 19:28:15 -0400
Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
Message-ID: <89046563-EBAD-4EAF-8564-6B02E44DAF7B@mac.com>

After solving some logistics issues I finally got my air compressor up  
and running again.

I want to purchase an impact wrench and am not sure what I really need  
for use on my car.  Seems like you get what you pay for.  My current  
need is to remove the bolts holding the crossmember brace under the  
oil pan.  Just can't break them loose with elbow grease.  Without  
going overboard what kind of ft lbs of torque do we need to remove  
some of these 40 year stuck bolts.

I've got a 60 gal 5hp 2 stage upright 240v compressor so I've got  
plenty of air.

Jim



From Lance at Robaldo.com  Tue May 26 22:49:50 2009
From: Lance at Robaldo.com (Lance Robaldo)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 21:49:50 -0400
Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
In-Reply-To: <89046563-EBAD-4EAF-8564-6B02E44DAF7B@mac.com>
References: <89046563-EBAD-4EAF-8564-6B02E44DAF7B@mac.com>
Message-ID: <001601c9de6d$6ee06110$4ca12330$@com>

If that's the hardest thing you'll have to break free, I wouldn't invest too
terribly much in an impact wrench.   I used a 3/4" breaker bar & socket with
about  3' of pipe slid on the breaker bar and broke my crossmember bolts
free with only a little elbow grease.  

Actually, knee grease to be exact.  I drove the car up on my ramps and laid
on my back under it.  I put my feet against the pipe and pushed with my legs
until the bolt(s) broke free.

Other than that, an impact wrench with enough torque to break lugnuts free
is about all I've ever needed, and even the $15-$25 cheap harbor freight
impact wrenches work fine for that.

Lance.
 


-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of James
Kessell
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 7:28 PM
To: Lance at robaldo.com
Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation

After solving some logistics issues I finally got my air compressor up  
and running again.

I want to purchase an impact wrench and am not sure what I really need  
for use on my car.  Seems like you get what you pay for.  My current  
need is to remove the bolts holding the crossmember brace under the  
oil pan.  Just can't break them loose with elbow grease.  Without  
going overboard what kind of ft lbs of torque do we need to remove  
some of these 40 year stuck bolts.

I've got a 60 gal 5hp 2 stage upright 240v compressor so I've got  
plenty of air.

Jim


_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/



From mustangpaul at gmail.com  Tue May 26 23:23:43 2009
From: mustangpaul at gmail.com (Paul Sawyer)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 21:23:43 -0500
Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
In-Reply-To: <001601c9de6d$6ee06110$4ca12330$@com>
References: <89046563-EBAD-4EAF-8564-6B02E44DAF7B@mac.com>
	<001601c9de6d$6ee06110$4ca12330$@com>
Message-ID: <929e6daa0905261923i5ee01994tfd0363d713e3a08b@mail.gmail.com>

I never thought I'd need an Impact Wrench, but now that I have a good
one--sears model about $75--I use the hell out of it!  From loosening rusted
bolts on my lawn mower deck to all sorts of items on the Mustang, I love
mine.  I'd say to pay attention to the torque they advertise.  The cheap
ones have about 240.  I'd try to get one with more ooomph than that.

You don't need one of those Thunder Guns that they use in NASCAR, but a good
one is really nice to have when you need it.

On Tue, May 26, 2009 at 8:49 PM, Lance Robaldo <Lance at robaldo.com> wrote:

> If that's the hardest thing you'll have to break free, I wouldn't invest
> too
> terribly much in an impact wrench.   I used a 3/4" breaker bar & socket
> with
> about  3' of pipe slid on the breaker bar and broke my crossmember bolts
> free with only a little elbow grease.
>
> Actually, knee grease to be exact.  I drove the car up on my ramps and laid
> on my back under it.  I put my feet against the pipe and pushed with my
> legs
> until the bolt(s) broke free.
>
> Other than that, an impact wrench with enough torque to break lugnuts free
> is about all I've ever needed, and even the $15-$25 cheap harbor freight
> impact wrenches work fine for that.
>
> Lance.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of James
> Kessell
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 7:28 PM
> To: Lance at robaldo.com
> Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
>
> After solving some logistics issues I finally got my air compressor up
> and running again.
>
> I want to purchase an impact wrench and am not sure what I really need
> for use on my car.  Seems like you get what you pay for.  My current
> need is to remove the bolts holding the crossmember brace under the
> oil pan.  Just can't break them loose with elbow grease.  Without
> going overboard what kind of ft lbs of torque do we need to remove
> some of these 40 year stuck bolts.
>
> I've got a 60 gal 5hp 2 stage upright 240v compressor so I've got
> plenty of air.
>
> Jim
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/<http://sauce.donair.org/%7Ecm/>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/<http://sauce.donair.org/%7Ecm/>
>
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From ckelly at raceabilene.com  Wed May 27 00:38:34 2009
From: ckelly at raceabilene.com (Chris Kelly)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 22:38:34 -0500
Subject: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
In-Reply-To: <BE7B79F863464BF7960949A8612A27F6@thunkpudborg>
References: <1C78B2C7-86E6-4C8A-8397-1741FBC6351B@peskin.org><367E96CF75C04466BE0DF6E69A26B185@thunkpudborg><674056A9-F4D8-4879-BE14-AD187C02551B@peskin.org><8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E9FB@dlee02.ent.ti.com>	<974F1ECB-6386-420F-A7D0-50F2E77CD4DB@raceabilene.com>
	<BE7B79F863464BF7960949A8612A27F6@thunkpudborg>
Message-ID: <004001c9de7c$9e4bab80$dae30280$@com>

Doggone those funky keyboards!  Mine does that a lot also.  Spot on
discussion.  

I put our sensors at the rear of the pan.

=====================================
 Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
 http://raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
          Merkel, Texas
             Member:
 International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
      Falcon Club of America
=====================================
> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-
> bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Michael J. Kupec
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 2:45 PM
> To: Chris Kelly
> Subject: Re: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
> 
> This is what happens when I don't proof-read what I type, prior to
sending!
> Blame it on the fact that the "3" is too stinking close to the "2" on the
> keyboard! (Yeah, that's it!)

....

> Now, next thing to discuss is, where do you put the temp sender if you
wish
> to monitor your trans temp? Varying answers have been: in the oil pan, on
> the line feeding the cooler or on the return line from the cooler to the
> trans. What's your preference?
> 
> Michael J. Kupec
> mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
> http://www.blueovalcorral.com
> 
> Youth would be an ideal state if it came a little later in life. ~Herbert
> Henry Asquith
> 
> > -----Original Mes


From ckelly at raceabilene.com  Wed May 27 00:42:35 2009
From: ckelly at raceabilene.com (Chris Kelly)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 22:42:35 -0500
Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
In-Reply-To: <89046563-EBAD-4EAF-8564-6B02E44DAF7B@mac.com>
References: <89046563-EBAD-4EAF-8564-6B02E44DAF7B@mac.com>
Message-ID: <004101c9de7d$2db0f5a0$8912e0e0$@com>

I bought one like this on sale on Black Friday
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00919983000P?keyword=impact+wrench

It may not be this exact model, but the ft/lbs and price are close.  Good
gun, use it a lot.  100 times better than a cheap Campbell-Hausfeld.

=====================================
 Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
 http://raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
          Merkel, Texas
             Member:
 International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
      Falcon Club of America
=====================================

> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-
> bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of James Kessell
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 6:28 PM
> To: Chris Kelly
> Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
> 
> After solving some logistics issues I finally got my air compressor up
> and running again.
> 
> I want to purchase an impact wrench and am not sure what I really need
> for use on my car.  Seems like you get what you pay for.  My current
> need is to remove the bolts holding the crossmember brace under the
> oil pan.  Just can't break them loose with elbow grease.  Without
> going overboard what kind of ft lbs of torque do we need to remove
> some of these 40 year stuck bolts.
> 
> I've got a 60 gal 5hp 2 stage upright 240v compressor so I've got
> plenty of air.
> 
> Jim
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/


From mkupec at blueovalcorral.com  Wed May 27 01:29:45 2009
From: mkupec at blueovalcorral.com (Michael J. Kupec)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 00:29:45 -0400
Subject: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
In-Reply-To: <004001c9de7c$9e4bab80$dae30280$@com>
References: <1C78B2C7-86E6-4C8A-8397-1741FBC6351B@peskin.org><367E96CF75C04466BE0DF6E69A26B185@thunkpudborg><674056A9-F4D8-4879-BE14-AD187C02551B@peskin.org><8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E9FB@dlee02.ent.ti.com>	<974F1ECB-6386-420F-A7D0-50F2E77CD4DB@raceabilene.com><BE7B79F863464BF7960949A8612A27F6@thunkpudborg>
	<004001c9de7c$9e4bab80$dae30280$@com>
Message-ID: <61200E5B893F498D9BA9BAF868FE4B02@thunkpudborg>

FWIW - not really Mustang related, but I've had a windshield column dual pod
with oil pressure and trans oil temp gauges and a pair of sensors for the
trans guage, that I've yet to install on my Expedition, it's been five years
since I bought them. Intent was to have one temp sensor in the pan and one
on the line feeding oil to the cooler with a switch to select either sensor.
I figured, I have to run wiring down there for one sensor, why not include
one for a second sensor and see just how well the cooler is working. 

I was going to just use two trans temp gauges, but I discovered that the oil
pressure gauge on all new Ford vehicles really doesn't show pressure, but is
a go-no-go indicator. It flips up into the good range with pressure above 5
PSI and drops to zero when below that pressure. Might as well just have an
idiot light on the dash. I prefer to have a actual gauge that shows just how
much oil pressure the engine currently has vs a idiot light gauge.

Michael J. Kupec
mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
http://www.blueovalcorral.com

Be careful about reading health books. You may die of a misprint. ~Mark
Twain

> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca 
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On 
> Behalf Of Chris Kelly
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 11:39 PM
> To: Michael J. Kupec
> Subject: Re: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
> 
> Doggone those funky keyboards!  Mine does that a lot also.  
> Spot on discussion.  
> 
> I put our sensors at the rear of the pan.
> 
> =====================================
>  Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
>  http://raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
>           Merkel, Texas
>              Member:
>  International Hot Rod Association
> Abilene Performance Car Association
>       Falcon Club of America
> =====================================
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-
> > bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Michael J. Kupec
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 2:45 PM
> > To: Chris Kelly
> > Subject: Re: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
> > 
> > This is what happens when I don't proof-read what I type, prior to
> sending!
> > Blame it on the fact that the "3" is too stinking close to 
> the "2" on 
> > the keyboard! (Yeah, that's it!)
> 
> ....
> 
> > Now, next thing to discuss is, where do you put the temp 
> sender if you
> wish
> > to monitor your trans temp? Varying answers have been: in 
> the oil pan, 
> > on the line feeding the cooler or on the return line from 
> the cooler 
> > to the trans. What's your preference?
> > 
> > Michael J. Kupec
> > mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
> > http://www.blueovalcorral.com
> > 
> > Youth would be an ideal state if it came a little later in life. 
> > ~Herbert Henry Asquith
> > 
> > > -----Original Mes
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
> 


From mustang at peskin.org  Wed May 27 01:31:11 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 21:31:11 -0700
Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
In-Reply-To: <004101c9de7d$2db0f5a0$8912e0e0$@com>
References: <89046563-EBAD-4EAF-8564-6B02E44DAF7B@mac.com>
	<004101c9de7d$2db0f5a0$8912e0e0$@com>
Message-ID: <8AC98A71-EBA0-42CF-A98B-2F0617623697@peskin.org>


On May 26, 2009, at 8:42 PM, Chris Kelly wrote:

>  100 times better than a cheap Campbell-Hausfeld.

*adds a line item to the Christmas list*.

From dharrelson at embarqmail.com  Wed May 27 08:25:22 2009
From: dharrelson at embarqmail.com (Dennis Harrelson)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 07:25:22 -0400
Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
References: <89046563-EBAD-4EAF-8564-6B02E44DAF7B@mac.com>
	<001601c9de6d$6ee06110$4ca12330$@com>
Message-ID: <0F26C981E7204ACF9E141F76DBE0B1A7@dadgateway>

I wouldn't do this. A long cheater bar _will_ break these bolts. Ask me how 
I know. Once broken off in the frame, they are a major problem. Buy, beg, 
borrow or steal an impact wrench, but resist the temptation to use leverage.
Later,
Dennis
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lance Robaldo" <Lance at Robaldo.com>
To: "Dennis Harrelson" <dharrelson at embarqmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 9:49 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation


> If that's the hardest thing you'll have to break free, I wouldn't invest 
> too
> terribly much in an impact wrench.   I used a 3/4" breaker bar & socket 
> with
> about  3' of pipe slid on the breaker bar and broke my crossmember bolts
> free with only a little elbow grease.
>
> Actually, knee grease to be exact.  I drove the car up on my ramps and 
> laid
> on my back under it.  I put my feet against the pipe and pushed with my 
> legs
> until the bolt(s) broke free.
>
> Other than that, an impact wrench with enough torque to break lugnuts free
> is about all I've ever needed, and even the $15-$25 cheap harbor freight
> impact wrenches work fine for that.
>
> Lance.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of James
> Kessell
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 7:28 PM
> To: Lance at robaldo.com
> Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
>
> After solving some logistics issues I finally got my air compressor up
> and running again.
>
> I want to purchase an impact wrench and am not sure what I really need
> for use on my car.  Seems like you get what you pay for.  My current
> need is to remove the bolts holding the crossmember brace under the
> oil pan.  Just can't break them loose with elbow grease.  Without
> going overboard what kind of ft lbs of torque do we need to remove
> some of these 40 year stuck bolts.
>
> I've got a 60 gal 5hp 2 stage upright 240v compressor so I've got
> plenty of air.
>
> Jim
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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08:53:00


From keven at ti.com  Wed May 27 10:40:40 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 08:40:40 -0500
Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
In-Reply-To: <0F26C981E7204ACF9E141F76DBE0B1A7@dadgateway>
References: <89046563-EBAD-4EAF-8564-6B02E44DAF7B@mac.com>
	<001601c9de6d$6ee06110$4ca12330$@com>
	<0F26C981E7204ACF9E141F76DBE0B1A7@dadgateway>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5735C9E72@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

Harbor Freight sells a cheapish Ingersoll Rand impact wrench.  It's still like $80, but that's pretty cheap for IR stuff.  That's the one I always thought I'd spend my money on if I needed another one.  They sure are handy when you need them, although I have to say, the import ones do have a decent amount of torque as well.  

I guess a lot of it depends on how much you'll use it.  I don't really use mine a lot.  I torgue all my wheel lugs off by hand, although I wouldn't have to, but if you're not careful and impact wrench will do a great job of messing up your wheels in a hurry.

If you only need strength, the import ones will probably do fine.  If you need strength and long term dependability, the IR one is a good way to go.

I agree with Dennis, there are a lot of things that leverage will not work well with, and can break bolts much easier.

Now that I look, I can't find the cheapish IR wrench, the cheapest one there is $129.  Use a coupon or go with one of the HF ones.  Some of those composite ones look pretty nice.

That's one great thing about compressors, the ability to use cheap tools that are pretty reliable.  

Speaking of air tools, check out the new poly hoses.  They're light, small, and durable.  I just got a 50' that almost looks and feels like an extension cord it's so light and small (just 3/8" O.D.!).  Home depot sells a roll of 100' Amflo poly hose for $37 (and it's only like 5 lbs total!).  It's more expensive, but worth it!  The old hose feels like a lead weight attached to all the air tools compared to this.

Keven


From mahilly at gmail.com  Wed May 27 17:00:14 2009
From: mahilly at gmail.com (Mike H)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 13:00:14 -0700
Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
In-Reply-To: <0F26C981E7204ACF9E141F76DBE0B1A7@dadgateway>
References: <89046563-EBAD-4EAF-8564-6B02E44DAF7B@mac.com>
	<001601c9de6d$6ee06110$4ca12330$@com>
	<0F26C981E7204ACF9E141F76DBE0B1A7@dadgateway>
Message-ID: <ed3b22350905271300x18fd0567i97d2b3f523570409@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 4:25 AM, Dennis Harrelson <dharrelson at embarqmail.com
> wrote:
Buy, beg,
borrow or steal an impact wrench, but resist the temptation to use leverage.

What's the difference?  Torque is torque, isn't it?
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From keven at ti.com  Wed May 27 17:37:52 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 15:37:52 -0500
Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
In-Reply-To: <ed3b22350905271300x18fd0567i97d2b3f523570409@mail.gmail.com>
References: <89046563-EBAD-4EAF-8564-6B02E44DAF7B@mac.com>
	<001601c9de6d$6ee06110$4ca12330$@com>
	<0F26C981E7204ACF9E141F76DBE0B1A7@dadgateway>
	<ed3b22350905271300x18fd0567i97d2b3f523570409@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5735CA47C@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

Not exactly.  A torque wrench is a pulsed torque.

For example, if I have a wheel off the ground and need to loosen the lug nuts (a situation I've done stupidly many times), I have two choices.  I can use a lug wrench, but I'll need to have someone really large to hold the wheel, or perhaps I can jamb something under the wheel to stop it from turning.  The other choice is an impact wrench.

An impact wrench will apply the torque quickly and let off, meaning the average torque is something much less than 400 ft/lbs, or whatever.  In fact, it's usually so low that I can hold the tire myself with my other hand while the impact wrench is torqueing.

Why is an impact sometimes able to take bolts off that would otherwise twist off with a leverage bar?  I think it's partially because of the way it works.  They call it an "impact" wrench because internally the wrench has rapidly spinning hammers that occasionally hit the output shaft to hammer the torque out.  This means the peak torque (in the milliseconds) can be much higher than the rated torque.  It's like hammering on a nut or bolt, but in a circle.  It shocks the nut instead of progressively applying a smooth turning torque.

Keven
________________________________
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Mike H
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 3:00 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation

On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 4:25 AM, Dennis Harrelson <dharrelson at embarqmail.com<mailto:dharrelson at embarqmail.com>> wrote:
Buy, beg,
borrow or steal an impact wrench, but resist the temptation to use leverage.

What's the difference?  Torque is torque, isn't it?
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From walt at boeninger.net  Wed May 27 18:25:08 2009
From: walt at boeninger.net (Walt Boeninger)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 14:25:08 -0700
Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
In-Reply-To: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5735CA47C@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
References: <89046563-EBAD-4EAF-8564-6B02E44DAF7B@mac.com>	<001601c9de6d$6ee06110$4ca12330$@com>	<0F26C981E7204ACF9E141F76DBE0B1A7@dadgateway>	<ed3b22350905271300x18fd0567i97d2b3f523570409@mail.gmail.com>
	<8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5735CA47C@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <4A1DAFB4.7000809@boeninger.net>



Coates, Keven wrote:
> Not exactly.  A torque wrench is a pulsed torque.
> 
>  
> 
> For example, if I have a wheel off the ground and need to loosen the lug 
> nuts (a situation I?ve done stupidly many times), I have two choices.  I 
> can use a lug wrench, but I?ll need to have someone really large to hold 
> the wheel, or perhaps I can jamb something under the wheel to stop it 
> from turning.  The other choice is an impact wrench.

I was amazed years ago when I was told to use an impact wrench to remove
the big nut on the front of an alternator .... the one holding the fan & pulley on.
This was out of the car, sitting gently in a vice.... it just spun the nut 
right off
with out having to hold the pulley from turning

Top nuts on McPherson struts in a Fox Mustang are also a breeze....

-- 
Regards
--------------
Walt Boeninger
Walt at boeninger.net
webmaster at norcal-saac.org
webmaster at vintagemustang.org
http://shelbytransam.com

From W427 at comcast.net  Wed May 27 19:39:39 2009
From: W427 at comcast.net (David)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 15:39:39 -0700
Subject: [CM] Cooling fan ident
Message-ID: <4A1DC12B.8080504@comcast.net>

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From dano at process.com  Wed May 27 20:29:04 2009
From: dano at process.com (Dan O'Reilly)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 17:29:04 -0600
Subject: [CM] Cooling fan ident
In-Reply-To: <4A1DC12B.8080504@comcast.net>
References: <4A1DC12B.8080504@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6.1.2.0.2.20090527172754.04051dc8@raptor.psccos.com>

That's for 68/69 429 Tbird or Lincoln with AC or X-cool.

At 04:39 PM 5/27/2009, David wrote:
>Anyone have the application listing for a clutch fan stamped C8SE-C on the 
>blade?  It is not original to the car and I'm curious what the original 
>application was.  I haven't found anything on the net but a pic.  Thanks

---

Dan O'Reilly
1971 Bright Red Mach 1
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO



From W427 at comcast.net  Wed May 27 21:52:53 2009
From: W427 at comcast.net (David)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 17:52:53 -0700
Subject: [CM] Cooling fan ident
In-Reply-To: <6.1.2.0.2.20090527172754.04051dc8@raptor.psccos.com>
References: <4A1DC12B.8080504@comcast.net>
	<6.1.2.0.2.20090527172754.04051dc8@raptor.psccos.com>
Message-ID: <4A1DE065.6070700@comcast.net>

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From forjp at videotron.ca  Wed May 27 22:20:25 2009
From: forjp at videotron.ca (Jean-Paul Fortier)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 21:20:25 -0400
Subject: [CM] Mailing list.
Message-ID: <F285F1EC2B1E4CCC8A679BDE95A3A51C@PCdeAdmin>

I would like to be removed from the mailing list .This is the second time i am requesting to be removed from your list.I do not want to receive future E-mails from your site.Thank you to please foreword to concerned personnel.
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From nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net  Thu May 28 00:12:03 2009
From: nvrl8nmy68 at comcast.net (nvrl8nmy68)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 20:12:03 -0700
Subject: [CM] Mailing list.
In-Reply-To: <F285F1EC2B1E4CCC8A679BDE95A3A51C@PCdeAdmin>
References: <F285F1EC2B1E4CCC8A679BDE95A3A51C@PCdeAdmin>
Message-ID: <000001c9df42$13861640$3a9242c0$@net>

You will need to contact the administrators to be removed. It doesn't work
to reply to email strings like this.

 

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
Jean-Paul Fortier
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 6:20 PM
To: Julie Austad
Subject: [CM] Mailing list.

 

I would like to be removed from the mailing list .This is the second time i
am requesting to be removed from your list.I do not want to receive future
E-mails from your site.Thank you to please foreword to concerned personnel.

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From W427 at comcast.net  Thu May 28 00:17:45 2009
From: W427 at comcast.net (David)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 20:17:45 -0700
Subject: [CM] Mailing list.
In-Reply-To: <F285F1EC2B1E4CCC8A679BDE95A3A51C@PCdeAdmin>
References: <F285F1EC2B1E4CCC8A679BDE95A3A51C@PCdeAdmin>
Message-ID: <4A1E0259.8080706@comcast.net>

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From walt at boeninger.net  Thu May 28 00:25:36 2009
From: walt at boeninger.net (Walt Boeninger)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 20:25:36 -0700
Subject: [CM] Mailing list.
In-Reply-To: <4A1E0259.8080706@comcast.net>
References: <F285F1EC2B1E4CCC8A679BDE95A3A51C@PCdeAdmin>
	<4A1E0259.8080706@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A1E0430.2010709@boeninger.net>

http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/options.cgi/classic-mustangs

is the unsubscribe page ... if you don't know your password
you can have it sent to you...... since if you're like me and most of us
you'll have no clue what your password is....

Just enter your email address and your password will be sent to you....
I just tried it and the password is Greek to me!

David wrote:
> Jean-Paul, just go to the web address at the bottom of each email:
> 
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> At the bottom of the web page, there is a box to enter your address to 
> be UNsubscribed.
> 
> David
> 
> 
> Jean-Paul Fortier wrote:
>> I would like to be removed from the mailing list .This is the second 
>> time i am requesting to be removed from your list.I do not want to 
>> receive future E-mails from your site.Thank you to please foreword to 
>> concerned personnel.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> 
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/


From edward.p.mcsweeney at intel.com  Thu May 28 15:39:38 2009
From: edward.p.mcsweeney at intel.com (McSweeney, Edward P)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 11:39:38 -0700
Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
In-Reply-To: <0F26C981E7204ACF9E141F76DBE0B1A7@dadgateway>
References: <89046563-EBAD-4EAF-8564-6B02E44DAF7B@mac.com>
	<001601c9de6d$6ee06110$4ca12330$@com>
	<0F26C981E7204ACF9E141F76DBE0B1A7@dadgateway>
Message-ID: <13830B75AD5A2F42848F92269B11996F5461B75D@orsmsx509.amr.corp.intel.com>



 Does any one have a site that will explain how to correctly remove a right or left fender from a 66 Mustang?
Thanks
Ed

From michael.dinn at airfire.ca  Thu May 28 16:02:47 2009
From: michael.dinn at airfire.ca (Michael 'Moose' Dinn)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 16:02:47 -0300
Subject: [CM] ultra cool music video
Message-ID: <20090528190246.GF11353@blend.twistedpair.ca>


well, ultra cool for me. my car is in it!

:)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2y6WAHmnoQ4


From edward.p.mcsweeney at intel.com  Thu May 28 16:13:46 2009
From: edward.p.mcsweeney at intel.com (McSweeney, Edward P)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 12:13:46 -0700
Subject: [CM] ultra cool music video
In-Reply-To: <20090528190246.GF11353@blend.twistedpair.ca>
References: <20090528190246.GF11353@blend.twistedpair.ca>
Message-ID: <13830B75AD5A2F42848F92269B11996F5461B797@orsmsx509.amr.corp.intel.com>

Yes.... very cool!

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Michael 'Moose' Dinn
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 12:03 PM
To: McSweeney, Edward P
Subject: [CM] ultra cool music video


well, ultra cool for me. my car is in it!

:)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2y6WAHmnoQ4

_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

From RRobaldo at WLTSoftware.com  Thu May 28 16:54:14 2009
From: RRobaldo at WLTSoftware.com (Lance Robaldo)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 15:54:14 -0400
Subject: [CM] ultra cool music video
In-Reply-To: <13830B75AD5A2F42848F92269B11996F5461B797@orsmsx509.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <20090528190246.GF11353@blend.twistedpair.ca>
	<13830B75AD5A2F42848F92269B11996F5461B797@orsmsx509.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <B90EB50CFD774172A94032CD9A2C1A83@morena>

Every time I see a friends Mustang in a Music Video or in a Magazine/Catalog, it
qualifies as ultra cool to me!

Congrats Michael!

Lance Robaldo

Sr. Software Developer
WLT Software of Florida
RRobaldo at WLTSoftware.com
(727)442-9296 



From W427 at comcast.net  Thu May 28 19:17:44 2009
From: W427 at comcast.net (David)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 15:17:44 -0700
Subject: [CM] ultra cool music video
In-Reply-To: <20090528190246.GF11353@blend.twistedpair.ca>
References: <20090528190246.GF11353@blend.twistedpair.ca>
Message-ID: <4A1F0D88.4080708@comcast.net>

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From ckelly at raceabilene.com  Thu May 28 23:50:54 2009
From: ckelly at raceabilene.com (Chris Kelly)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 21:50:54 -0500
Subject: [CM] ultra cool music video
In-Reply-To: <4A1F0D88.4080708@comcast.net>
References: <20090528190246.GF11353@blend.twistedpair.ca>
	<4A1F0D88.4080708@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003301c9e008$4a159b60$de40d220$@com>

Well - that's going to be hard to top!  Very cool.

 

=====================================
 Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
 http://raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
          Merkel, Texas
             Member:
 International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
      Falcon Club of America
=====================================

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 5:18 PM
To: Chris Kelly
Subject: Re: [CM] ultra cool music video

 

Nice!  You have a really full head of red hair, Moose.  What conditioner do
you use?

;-)
David

PS:  Your car looks awesome, too!  Congratulations!

Michael 'Moose' Dinn wrote: 

well, ultra cool for me. my car is in it!
 
:)
 
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2y6WAHmnoQ4
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From DHHAI at aol.com  Fri May 29 09:26:32 2009
From: DHHAI at aol.com (DHHAI at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 08:26:32 EDT
Subject: [CM] Fender Removal
Message-ID: <cf1.586eb39d.37512e78@aol.com>

Hi   Ed,
I'd be interested in the same thing as well, as one of my emblems has 
fallen off and I don't want to replace it with the stick on kind.

It would be nice to confirm the vin number also on the passenger side 
fender too...


David in Boston
65 GT convertible


     Does any one have a site that will explain how to correctly remove a 
right or left fender from a      66 Mustang?
     Thanks
     Ed
     ______


**************
Discover the variety of Bisquick? mix. Get Recipes 
&amp; Savings Now. 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222831871x1201491818/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215225813%3B37274670%3Be%3
Fhttp:%2F%2Frecipes.bisquick.bettycrocker.com%3FESRC%3D971)
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From dano at process.com  Fri May 29 09:47:32 2009
From: dano at process.com (Dan O'Reilly)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 06:47:32 -0600
Subject: [CM] Fender Removal
In-Reply-To: <cf1.586eb39d.37512e78@aol.com>
References: <cf1.586eb39d.37512e78@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6.1.2.0.2.20090529064148.03cbdb38@raptor.psccos.com>

At 06:26 AM 5/29/2009, DHHAI at aol.com wrote:
>Hi  Ed,
>I'd be interested in the same thing as well, as one of my emblems has 
>fallen off and I don't want to replace it with the stick on kind.

It's actually simple: remove all the bolts you can see, and the one you 
can't - that one you access with the door open, and it sits a few inches 
down from the top of the fender.  A ratchet with a long extension will do 
just fine.  If memory serves, there's 1 or 2 more bolts in the bottom of 
the fender as well.  But the one most people forget about is the one 
accessed via the door.  Also, when putting that one bolt back in, make sure 
you install the foam pad that goes between the fender and the attaching 
point for the bolt.  I think you also have to remove the headlight bucket 
to get the fender off.  Be careful with those, they're just cast aluminum 
and they have weak spots that will fracture with rough handling or 
bending.  I don't remember if you have to remove the grille as well.  I can 
check my shop manual to see.

>It would be nice to confirm the vin number also on the passenger side 
>fender too...

The VIN is under the fender, on the apron, not stamped into the fender.

>David in Boston
>65 GT convertible
>
>
>      Does any one have a site that will explain how to correctly remove a 
> right or left fender from a      66 Mustang?
>      Thanks
>      Ed
>      ______

---

Dan O'Reilly
1971 Bright Red Mach 1
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO



From edward.p.mcsweeney at intel.com  Fri May 29 11:21:48 2009
From: edward.p.mcsweeney at intel.com (McSweeney, Edward P)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 07:21:48 -0700
Subject: [CM] Fender Removal
In-Reply-To: <6.1.2.0.2.20090529064148.03cbdb38@raptor.psccos.com>
References: <cf1.586eb39d.37512e78@aol.com>
	<6.1.2.0.2.20090529064148.03cbdb38@raptor.psccos.com>
Message-ID: <13830B75AD5A2F42848F92269B11996F5461BBF8@orsmsx509.amr.corp.intel.com>

David
Thanks for your input. There is not a lot on the internet.
I just got my 66 convertible back from being painted.
The doors need to be aligned and I need to get those fenders off with out ruining the paint job.
The guy who painted it left the state and I have to finish it up. 
Ed (In Oregon)
-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Dan O'Reilly
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 5:48 AM
To: McSweeney, Edward P
Subject: Re: [CM] Fender Removal

At 06:26 AM 5/29/2009, DHHAI at aol.com wrote:
>Hi  Ed,
>I'd be interested in the same thing as well, as one of my emblems has 
>fallen off and I don't want to replace it with the stick on kind.

It's actually simple: remove all the bolts you can see, and the one you 
can't - that one you access with the door open, and it sits a few inches 
down from the top of the fender.  A ratchet with a long extension will do 
just fine.  If memory serves, there's 1 or 2 more bolts in the bottom of 
the fender as well.  But the one most people forget about is the one 
accessed via the door.  Also, when putting that one bolt back in, make sure 
you install the foam pad that goes between the fender and the attaching 
point for the bolt.  I think you also have to remove the headlight bucket 
to get the fender off.  Be careful with those, they're just cast aluminum 
and they have weak spots that will fracture with rough handling or 
bending.  I don't remember if you have to remove the grille as well.  I can 
check my shop manual to see.

>It would be nice to confirm the vin number also on the passenger side 
>fender too...

The VIN is under the fender, on the apron, not stamped into the fender.

>David in Boston
>65 GT convertible
>
>
>      Does any one have a site that will explain how to correctly remove a 
> right or left fender from a      66 Mustang?
>      Thanks
>      Ed
>      ______

---

Dan O'Reilly
1971 Bright Red Mach 1
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO


_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

From jeffsubs at shanholtz.com  Fri May 29 13:02:21 2009
From: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com (Jeff Shanholtz)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 09:02:21 -0700
Subject: [CM] Fender Removal
In-Reply-To: <6.1.2.0.2.20090529064148.03cbdb38@raptor.psccos.com>
References: <cf1.586eb39d.37512e78@aol.com>
	<6.1.2.0.2.20090529064148.03cbdb38@raptor.psccos.com>
Message-ID: <009501c9e076$d94ec270$8bec4750$@com>

Also, it's a good time to install a power antenna if you have a stereo that
will control it. :)

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Dan
O'Reilly
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 5:48 AM
To: Jeff Shanholtz
Subject: Re: [CM] Fender Removal

At 06:26 AM 5/29/2009, DHHAI at aol.com wrote:
>Hi  Ed,
>I'd be interested in the same thing as well, as one of my emblems has 
>fallen off and I don't want to replace it with the stick on kind.

It's actually simple: remove all the bolts you can see, and the one you 
can't - that one you access with the door open, and it sits a few inches 
down from the top of the fender.  A ratchet with a long extension will do 
just fine.  If memory serves, there's 1 or 2 more bolts in the bottom of 
the fender as well.  But the one most people forget about is the one 
accessed via the door.  Also, when putting that one bolt back in, make sure 
you install the foam pad that goes between the fender and the attaching 
point for the bolt.  I think you also have to remove the headlight bucket 
to get the fender off.  Be careful with those, they're just cast aluminum 
and they have weak spots that will fracture with rough handling or 
bending.  I don't remember if you have to remove the grille as well.  I can 
check my shop manual to see.

>It would be nice to confirm the vin number also on the passenger side 
>fender too...

The VIN is under the fender, on the apron, not stamped into the fender.

>David in Boston
>65 GT convertible
>
>
>      Does any one have a site that will explain how to correctly remove a 
> right or left fender from a      66 Mustang?
>      Thanks
>      Ed
>      ______

---

Dan O'Reilly
1971 Bright Red Mach 1
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO


_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/


From edward.p.mcsweeney at intel.com  Fri May 29 14:30:15 2009
From: edward.p.mcsweeney at intel.com (McSweeney, Edward P)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 10:30:15 -0700
Subject: [CM] Fender Removal
In-Reply-To: <009501c9e076$d94ec270$8bec4750$@com>
References: <cf1.586eb39d.37512e78@aol.com>
	<6.1.2.0.2.20090529064148.03cbdb38@raptor.psccos.com>
	<009501c9e076$d94ec270$8bec4750$@com>
Message-ID: <13830B75AD5A2F42848F92269B11996F5469D7B4@orsmsx509.amr.corp.intel.com>

New input on removing 66 mustang fenders.
 
Removal order:

Headlight bucket 
front bumper 
bolts along the engine bay 
bolts holding valance to fender 
blind nut behind the kick panel. Be sure you tape the socket to the extension so it does come off inside the fender... dont ask how I know. 
The REAL PITA bottom bolt on the bottom of the fender by the door. You might be able to loosen it enough to pull the fender out and work from the top if it is frozen. Buy a new one for 3 dollars to save hours of frustration... Again, dont ask how I know. 

 



-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Jeff Shanholtz
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 9:02 AM
To: McSweeney, Edward P
Subject: Re: [CM] Fender Removal

Also, it's a good time to install a power antenna if you have a stereo that
will control it. :)

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Dan
O'Reilly
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 5:48 AM
To: Jeff Shanholtz
Subject: Re: [CM] Fender Removal

At 06:26 AM 5/29/2009, DHHAI at aol.com wrote:
>Hi  Ed,
>I'd be interested in the same thing as well, as one of my emblems has 
>fallen off and I don't want to replace it with the stick on kind.

It's actually simple: remove all the bolts you can see, and the one you 
can't - that one you access with the door open, and it sits a few inches 
down from the top of the fender.  A ratchet with a long extension will do 
just fine.  If memory serves, there's 1 or 2 more bolts in the bottom of 
the fender as well.  But the one most people forget about is the one 
accessed via the door.  Also, when putting that one bolt back in, make sure 
you install the foam pad that goes between the fender and the attaching 
point for the bolt.  I think you also have to remove the headlight bucket 
to get the fender off.  Be careful with those, they're just cast aluminum 
and they have weak spots that will fracture with rough handling or 
bending.  I don't remember if you have to remove the grille as well.  I can 
check my shop manual to see.

>It would be nice to confirm the vin number also on the passenger side 
>fender too...

The VIN is under the fender, on the apron, not stamped into the fender.

>David in Boston
>65 GT convertible
>
>
>      Does any one have a site that will explain how to correctly remove a 
> right or left fender from a      66 Mustang?
>      Thanks
>      Ed
>      ______

---

Dan O'Reilly
1971 Bright Red Mach 1
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO


_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

From edward.p.mcsweeney at intel.com  Fri May 29 14:31:19 2009
From: edward.p.mcsweeney at intel.com (McSweeney, Edward P)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 10:31:19 -0700
Subject: [CM] Fender Removal
In-Reply-To: <009501c9e076$d94ec270$8bec4750$@com>
References: <cf1.586eb39d.37512e78@aol.com>
	<6.1.2.0.2.20090529064148.03cbdb38@raptor.psccos.com>
	<009501c9e076$d94ec270$8bec4750$@com>
Message-ID: <13830B75AD5A2F42848F92269B11996F5469D7BB@orsmsx509.amr.corp.intel.com>

Good suggestion... I just ordered one.

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Jeff Shanholtz
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 9:02 AM
To: McSweeney, Edward P
Subject: Re: [CM] Fender Removal

Also, it's a good time to install a power antenna if you have a stereo that
will control it. :)

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Dan
O'Reilly
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 5:48 AM
To: Jeff Shanholtz
Subject: Re: [CM] Fender Removal

At 06:26 AM 5/29/2009, DHHAI at aol.com wrote:
>Hi  Ed,
>I'd be interested in the same thing as well, as one of my emblems has 
>fallen off and I don't want to replace it with the stick on kind.

It's actually simple: remove all the bolts you can see, and the one you 
can't - that one you access with the door open, and it sits a few inches 
down from the top of the fender.  A ratchet with a long extension will do 
just fine.  If memory serves, there's 1 or 2 more bolts in the bottom of 
the fender as well.  But the one most people forget about is the one 
accessed via the door.  Also, when putting that one bolt back in, make sure 
you install the foam pad that goes between the fender and the attaching 
point for the bolt.  I think you also have to remove the headlight bucket 
to get the fender off.  Be careful with those, they're just cast aluminum 
and they have weak spots that will fracture with rough handling or 
bending.  I don't remember if you have to remove the grille as well.  I can 
check my shop manual to see.

>It would be nice to confirm the vin number also on the passenger side 
>fender too...

The VIN is under the fender, on the apron, not stamped into the fender.

>David in Boston
>65 GT convertible
>
>
>      Does any one have a site that will explain how to correctly remove a 
> right or left fender from a      66 Mustang?
>      Thanks
>      Ed
>      ______

---

Dan O'Reilly
1971 Bright Red Mach 1
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO


_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/

From rockresort at aol.com  Sat May 30 12:03:40 2009
From: rockresort at aol.com (Rockresort)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 08:03:40 -0700
Subject: [CM] Classic-mustangs Digest, Vol 74, Issue 26
In-Reply-To: <mailman.583.1243456709.11269.classic-mustangs@lists.twistedpair.ca>
References: <mailman.583.1243456709.11269.classic-mustangs@lists.twistedpair.ca>
Message-ID: <F1883EB6-73BA-4603-8BD8-D99C3CBC50A2@aol.com>

Use labor

JRM Iphone

On May 27, 2009, at 1:38 PM, classic-mustangs-request at lists.twistedpair.ca 
  wrote:

> Send Classic-mustangs mailing list submissions to
>    classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    classic-mustangs-owner at lists.twistedpair.ca
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Classic-mustangs digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re: In the market for a transmission cooler (Chris Kelly)
>   2. Re: Impact Wrench Recommedation (Chris Kelly)
>   3. Re: In the market for a transmission cooler (Michael J. Kupec)
>   4. Re: Impact Wrench Recommedation (Brandon Peskin)
>   5. Re: Impact Wrench Recommedation (Dennis Harrelson)
>   6. Re: Impact Wrench Recommedation (Coates, Keven)
>   7. Re: Impact Wrench Recommedation (Mike H)
>   8. Re: Impact Wrench Recommedation (Coates, Keven)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 22:38:34 -0500
> From: "Chris Kelly" <ckelly at raceabilene.com>
> Subject: Re: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
> To: "'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'"
>    <classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca>
> Message-ID: <004001c9de7c$9e4bab80$dae30280$@com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"
>
> Doggone those funky keyboards!  Mine does that a lot also.  Spot on
> discussion.
>
> I put our sensors at the rear of the pan.
>
> =====================================
> Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
> http://raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
>          Merkel, Texas
>             Member:
> International Hot Rod Association
> Abilene Performance Car Association
>      Falcon Club of America
> =====================================
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-
>> bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Michael J. Kupec
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 2:45 PM
>> To: Chris Kelly
>> Subject: Re: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
>>
>> This is what happens when I don't proof-read what I type, prior to
> sending!
>> Blame it on the fact that the "3" is too stinking close to the "2"  
>> on the
>> keyboard! (Yeah, that's it!)
>
> ....
>
>> Now, next thing to discuss is, where do you put the temp sender if  
>> you
> wish
>> to monitor your trans temp? Varying answers have been: in the oil  
>> pan, on
>> the line feeding the cooler or on the return line from the cooler  
>> to the
>> trans. What's your preference?
>>
>> Michael J. Kupec
>> mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
>> http://www.blueovalcorral.com
>>
>> Youth would be an ideal state if it came a little later in life.  
>> ~Herbert
>> Henry Asquith
>>
>>> -----Original Mes
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 22:42:35 -0500
> From: "Chris Kelly" <ckelly at raceabilene.com>
> Subject: Re: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
> To: "'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'"
>    <classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca>
> Message-ID: <004101c9de7d$2db0f5a0$8912e0e0$@com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"
>
> I bought one like this on sale on Black Friday
> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00919983000P?keyword=impact+wrench
>
> It may not be this exact model, but the ft/lbs and price are close.   
> Good
> gun, use it a lot.  100 times better than a cheap Campbell-Hausfeld.
>
> =====================================
> Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
> http://raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
>          Merkel, Texas
>             Member:
> International Hot Rod Association
> Abilene Performance Car Association
>      Falcon Club of America
> =====================================
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-
>> bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of James Kessell
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 6:28 PM
>> To: Chris Kelly
>> Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
>>
>> After solving some logistics issues I finally got my air compressor  
>> up
>> and running again.
>>
>> I want to purchase an impact wrench and am not sure what I really  
>> need
>> for use on my car.  Seems like you get what you pay for.  My current
>> need is to remove the bolts holding the crossmember brace under the
>> oil pan.  Just can't break them loose with elbow grease.  Without
>> going overboard what kind of ft lbs of torque do we need to remove
>> some of these 40 year stuck bolts.
>>
>> I've got a 60 gal 5hp 2 stage upright 240v compressor so I've got
>> plenty of air.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Classic-mustangs mailing list
>> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>>
>> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 00:29:45 -0400
> From: "Michael J. Kupec" <mkupec at blueovalcorral.com>
> Subject: Re: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
> To: "'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'"
>    <classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca>
> Message-ID: <61200E5B893F498D9BA9BAF868FE4B02 at thunkpudborg>
> Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"
>
> FWIW - not really Mustang related, but I've had a windshield column  
> dual pod
> with oil pressure and trans oil temp gauges and a pair of sensors  
> for the
> trans guage, that I've yet to install on my Expedition, it's been  
> five years
> since I bought them. Intent was to have one temp sensor in the pan  
> and one
> on the line feeding oil to the cooler with a switch to select either  
> sensor.
> I figured, I have to run wiring down there for one sensor, why not  
> include
> one for a second sensor and see just how well the cooler is working.
>
> I was going to just use two trans temp gauges, but I discovered that  
> the oil
> pressure gauge on all new Ford vehicles really doesn't show  
> pressure, but is
> a go-no-go indicator. It flips up into the good range with pressure  
> above 5
> PSI and drops to zero when below that pressure. Might as well just  
> have an
> idiot light on the dash. I prefer to have a actual gauge that shows  
> just how
> much oil pressure the engine currently has vs a idiot light gauge.
>
> Michael J. Kupec
> mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
> http://www.blueovalcorral.com
>
> Be careful about reading health books. You may die of a misprint.  
> ~Mark
> Twain
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
>> [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On
>> Behalf Of Chris Kelly
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 11:39 PM
>> To: Michael J. Kupec
>> Subject: Re: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
>>
>> Doggone those funky keyboards!  Mine does that a lot also.
>> Spot on discussion.
>>
>> I put our sensors at the rear of the pan.
>>
>> =====================================
>> Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
>> http://raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
>>          Merkel, Texas
>>             Member:
>> International Hot Rod Association
>> Abilene Performance Car Association
>>      Falcon Club of America
>> =====================================
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
>> [mailto:classic-mustangs-
>>> bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Michael J. Kupec
>>> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 2:45 PM
>>> To: Chris Kelly
>>> Subject: Re: [CM] In the market for a transmission cooler
>>>
>>> This is what happens when I don't proof-read what I type, prior to
>> sending!
>>> Blame it on the fact that the "3" is too stinking close to
>> the "2" on
>>> the keyboard! (Yeah, that's it!)
>>
>> ....
>>
>>> Now, next thing to discuss is, where do you put the temp
>> sender if you
>> wish
>>> to monitor your trans temp? Varying answers have been: in
>> the oil pan,
>>> on the line feeding the cooler or on the return line from
>> the cooler
>>> to the trans. What's your preference?
>>>
>>> Michael J. Kupec
>>> mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
>>> http://www.blueovalcorral.com
>>>
>>> Youth would be an ideal state if it came a little later in life.
>>> ~Herbert Henry Asquith
>>>
>>>> -----Original Mes
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Classic-mustangs mailing list
>> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>>
>> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 21:31:11 -0700
> From: Brandon Peskin <mustang at peskin.org>
> Subject: Re: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
> To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
>    <classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca>
> Message-ID: <8AC98A71-EBA0-42CF-A98B-2F0617623697 at peskin.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
>
>
> On May 26, 2009, at 8:42 PM, Chris Kelly wrote:
>
>> 100 times better than a cheap Campbell-Hausfeld.
>
> *adds a line item to the Christmas list*.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 07:25:22 -0400
> From: "Dennis Harrelson" <dharrelson at embarqmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
> To: "A list for owners of Classic Mustangs"
>    <classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca>
> Message-ID: <0F26C981E7204ACF9E141F76DBE0B1A7 at dadgateway>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>    reply-type=original
>
> I wouldn't do this. A long cheater bar _will_ break these bolts. Ask  
> me how
> I know. Once broken off in the frame, they are a major problem. Buy,  
> beg,
> borrow or steal an impact wrench, but resist the temptation to use  
> leverage.
> Later,
> Dennis
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lance Robaldo" <Lance at Robaldo.com>
> To: "Dennis Harrelson" <dharrelson at embarqmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 9:49 PM
> Subject: Re: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
>
>
>> If that's the hardest thing you'll have to break free, I wouldn't  
>> invest
>> too
>> terribly much in an impact wrench.   I used a 3/4" breaker bar &  
>> socket
>> with
>> about  3' of pipe slid on the breaker bar and broke my crossmember  
>> bolts
>> free with only a little elbow grease.
>>
>> Actually, knee grease to be exact.  I drove the car up on my ramps  
>> and
>> laid
>> on my back under it.  I put my feet against the pipe and pushed  
>> with my
>> legs
>> until the bolt(s) broke free.
>>
>> Other than that, an impact wrench with enough torque to break  
>> lugnuts free
>> is about all I've ever needed, and even the $15-$25 cheap harbor  
>> freight
>> impact wrenches work fine for that.
>>
>> Lance.
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
>> [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of  
>> James
>> Kessell
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 7:28 PM
>> To: Lance at robaldo.com
>> Subject: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
>>
>> After solving some logistics issues I finally got my air compressor  
>> up
>> and running again.
>>
>> I want to purchase an impact wrench and am not sure what I really  
>> need
>> for use on my car.  Seems like you get what you pay for.  My current
>> need is to remove the bolts holding the crossmember brace under the
>> oil pan.  Just can't break them loose with elbow grease.  Without
>> going overboard what kind of ft lbs of torque do we need to remove
>> some of these 40 year stuck bolts.
>>
>> I've got a 60 gal 5hp 2 stage upright 240v compressor so I've got
>> plenty of air.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Classic-mustangs mailing list
>> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>>
>> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Classic-mustangs mailing list
>> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>>
>> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>
> --- 
> --- 
> --- 
> --- 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.40/2135 - Release Date:  
> 05/26/09
> 08:53:00
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 08:40:40 -0500
> From: "Coates, Keven" <keven at ti.com>
> Subject: Re: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
> To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
>    <classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca>
> Message-ID:
>    <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5735C9E72 at dlee02.ent.ti.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Harbor Freight sells a cheapish Ingersoll Rand impact wrench.  It's  
> still like $80, but that's pretty cheap for IR stuff.  That's the  
> one I always thought I'd spend my money on if I needed another one.   
> They sure are handy when you need them, although I have to say, the  
> import ones do have a decent amount of torque as well.
>
> I guess a lot of it depends on how much you'll use it.  I don't  
> really use mine a lot.  I torgue all my wheel lugs off by hand,  
> although I wouldn't have to, but if you're not careful and impact  
> wrench will do a great job of messing up your wheels in a hurry.
>
> If you only need strength, the import ones will probably do fine.   
> If you need strength and long term dependability, the IR one is a  
> good way to go.
>
> I agree with Dennis, there are a lot of things that leverage will  
> not work well with, and can break bolts much easier.
>
> Now that I look, I can't find the cheapish IR wrench, the cheapest  
> one there is $129.  Use a coupon or go with one of the HF ones.   
> Some of those composite ones look pretty nice.
>
> That's one great thing about compressors, the ability to use cheap  
> tools that are pretty reliable.
>
> Speaking of air tools, check out the new poly hoses.  They're light,  
> small, and durable.  I just got a 50' that almost looks and feels  
> like an extension cord it's so light and small (just 3/8" O.D.!).   
> Home depot sells a roll of 100' Amflo poly hose for $37 (and it's  
> only like 5 lbs total!).  It's more expensive, but worth it!  The  
> old hose feels like a lead weight attached to all the air tools  
> compared to this.
>
> Keven
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 13:00:14 -0700
> From: Mike H <mahilly at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
> To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
>    <classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca>
> Message-ID:
>    <ed3b22350905271300x18fd0567i97d2b3f523570409 at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 4:25 AM, Dennis Harrelson <dharrelson at embarqmail.com
>> wrote:
> Buy, beg,
> borrow or steal an impact wrench, but resist the temptation to use  
> leverage.
>
> What's the difference?  Torque is torque, isn't it?
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: http://lists.twistedpair.ca/pipermail/classic-mustangs/attachments/20090527/b36f8d34/attachment-0001.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 15:37:52 -0500
> From: "Coates, Keven" <keven at ti.com>
> Subject: Re: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
> To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
>    <classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca>
> Message-ID:
>    <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5735CA47C at dlee02.ent.ti.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Not exactly.  A torque wrench is a pulsed torque.
>
> For example, if I have a wheel off the ground and need to loosen the  
> lug nuts (a situation I've done stupidly many times), I have two  
> choices.  I can use a lug wrench, but I'll need to have someone  
> really large to hold the wheel, or perhaps I can jamb something  
> under the wheel to stop it from turning.  The other choice is an  
> impact wrench.
>
> An impact wrench will apply the torque quickly and let off, meaning  
> the average torque is something much less than 400 ft/lbs, or  
> whatever.  In fact, it's usually so low that I can hold the tire  
> myself with my other hand while the impact wrench is torqueing.
>
> Why is an impact sometimes able to take bolts off that would  
> otherwise twist off with a leverage bar?  I think it's partially  
> because of the way it works.  They call it an "impact" wrench  
> because internally the wrench has rapidly spinning hammers that  
> occasionally hit the output shaft to hammer the torque out.  This  
> means the peak torque (in the milliseconds) can be much higher than  
> the rated torque.  It's like hammering on a nut or bolt, but in a  
> circle.  It shocks the nut instead of progressively applying a  
> smooth turning torque.
>
> Keven
> ________________________________
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca 
> ] On Behalf Of Mike H
> Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 3:00 PM
> To: Coates, Keven
> Subject: Re: [CM] Impact Wrench Recommedation
>
> On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 4:25 AM, Dennis Harrelson <dharrelson at embarqmail.com 
> <mailto:dharrelson at embarqmail.com>> wrote:
> Buy, beg,
> borrow or steal an impact wrench, but resist the temptation to use  
> leverage.
>
> What's the difference?  Torque is torque, isn't it?
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: http://lists.twistedpair.ca/pipermail/classic-mustangs/attachments/20090527/12adaddb/attachment.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
> End of Classic-mustangs Digest, Vol 74, Issue 26
> ************************************************

From mahilly at gmail.com  Sat May 30 15:09:10 2009
From: mahilly at gmail.com (Mike H)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 11:09:10 -0700
Subject: [CM] Fender Removal
In-Reply-To: <009501c9e076$d94ec270$8bec4750$@com>
References: <cf1.586eb39d.37512e78@aol.com>
	<6.1.2.0.2.20090529064148.03cbdb38@raptor.psccos.com>
	<009501c9e076$d94ec270$8bec4750$@com>
Message-ID: <ed3b22350905301109l19d23872m71e0bdd2b1b028d2@mail.gmail.com>

I second that suggestion!  I installed one last year and love it.  You only
need to pull the fender out a few inches to be able to get in there to
install the antennae, so removing the headlight bucket is not necessary (if
that's all you are doing).

On Fri, May 29, 2009 at 9:02 AM, Jeff Shanholtz <jeffsubs at shanholtz.com>wrote:

> Also, it's a good time to install a power antenna if you have a stereo that
> will control it. :)
>
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
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From mustang at peskin.org  Sat May 30 15:15:15 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 11:15:15 -0700
Subject: [CM] Fender Removal
In-Reply-To: <ed3b22350905301109l19d23872m71e0bdd2b1b028d2@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cf1.586eb39d.37512e78@aol.com>
	<6.1.2.0.2.20090529064148.03cbdb38@raptor.psccos.com>
	<009501c9e076$d94ec270$8bec4750$@com>
	<ed3b22350905301109l19d23872m71e0bdd2b1b028d2@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E126AF2C-3A7B-42F0-BC9A-0EAB7C59AFE7@peskin.org>

I installed mine in the back and the apparatus hangs down into the  
trunk.

Anyone want a  pic?
On May 30, 2009, at 11:09 AM, Mike H wrote:

> I second that suggestion!  I installed one last year and love it.   
> You only need to pull the fender out a few inches to be able to get  
> in there to install the antennae, so removing the headlight bucket  
> is not necessary (if that's all you are doing).


From keven at ti.com  Sat May 30 21:55:17 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 19:55:17 -0500
Subject: [CM] Fender Removal
In-Reply-To: <E126AF2C-3A7B-42F0-BC9A-0EAB7C59AFE7@peskin.org>
References: <cf1.586eb39d.37512e78@aol.com>
	<6.1.2.0.2.20090529064148.03cbdb38@raptor.psccos.com>
	<009501c9e076$d94ec270$8bec4750$@com>
	<ed3b22350905301109l19d23872m71e0bdd2b1b028d2@mail.gmail.com>
	<E126AF2C-3A7B-42F0-BC9A-0EAB7C59AFE7@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5736C1BB4@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

What did you do with the hole in the front fender?

Keven
-----Original Message-----
I installed mine in the back and the apparatus hangs down into the  
trunk.

From jeffsubs at shanholtz.com  Sat May 30 22:17:16 2009
From: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com (Jeff Shanholtz)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 18:17:16 -0700
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <7D91BCE8-3B1F-48D6-A783-1922B5D044D4@peskin.org>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com><929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com><923D932F-C708-46DF-9210-B4E091EDE003@bgwcomp.com>
	<1260385069-1242974272-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1091514976-@bxe1083.bisx.produk.on.blackberry>
	<01d701c9db47$b4de7a90$1e9b6fb0$@com>
	<DBD26BE3-D46E-4D3A-A270-658462F8A5AF@peskin.org>
	<8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E7F0@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
	<7CE573A1-A652-422D-87D6-CCF7730C1CF2@peskin.org>
	<8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E993@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
	<7D91BCE8-3B1F-48D6-A783-1922B5D044D4@peskin.org>
Message-ID: <011501c9e18d$8977d4e0$9c677ea0$@com>

I got my new stereo with the line in yesterday and the docking station
today. So I've actually tested the configuration and it rocks (literally).
If I can just get off my butt and upholster the center console I fabricated
I'll have a good spot to stick the docking station and I think it will
really be a slick solution. Maybe this will be the motivation I need to
start to practice sewing so I can get that upholstering done! Hopefully I'll
remember to take some pics after it's all done and post them for you guys to
see.

Thanks again for all the ideas given!

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Brandon
Peskin
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 9:19 AM
To: Jeff Shanholtz
Subject: Re: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters

Don't be ashamed. We bought a 2008 Miata a few weeks ago. I work in  
San Francisco and nominally take BART to work. My girlfriend will be  
starting at the culinary academy in SF in July. BART for one beats the  
cost of driving to the city for one person. BART for two does not.  
Having a two-seater with two people in it means we don't pay the $4.00  
toll every morning across the Bay Bridge either (and can use the HOV/ 
carpool lanes)

I just ordered an audiolink unit for the Miata. Pull the head unit,  
affix this little device to the CD changer input and away we go. Lets  
you change iPod tracks with the steering wheel and head unit controls.

My Mustang still has the line-in method but CAS makes an iPod  
interface for it for about $100. Auto starts the iPod when the radio  
is powered up too so you can theoretically pretend you're Christine if  
your remote keyless entry has an extra channel to flip on the radio.


On May 26, 2009, at 9:06 AM, Coates, Keven wrote:

> Sorry.  I drove my '68 Mustang as a daily driver with a line in that  
> I wired my iPod to.  Two years ago I bought a '91 Miata (ohh, the  
> heresy!) as my daily driver since I drive 50 miles/day and gas was  
> getting expensive.

_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
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Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/


From mustang at peskin.org  Sat May 30 23:02:49 2009
From: mustang at peskin.org (Brandon Peskin)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 19:02:49 -0700
Subject: [CM] Fender Removal
In-Reply-To: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5736C1BB4@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
References: <cf1.586eb39d.37512e78@aol.com>
	<6.1.2.0.2.20090529064148.03cbdb38@raptor.psccos.com>
	<009501c9e076$d94ec270$8bec4750$@com>
	<ed3b22350905301109l19d23872m71e0bdd2b1b028d2@mail.gmail.com>
	<E126AF2C-3A7B-42F0-BC9A-0EAB7C59AFE7@peskin.org>
	<8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5736C1BB4@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <E0860F95-1663-4955-8448-28BF82AB8365@peskin.org>

I actually had to replace that fender...and when I did it the  
reproduction didn't have the hole. Rather than drill it out, I opted  
to just move the antenna to the back right quarter.
On May 30, 2009, at 5:55 PM, Coates, Keven wrote:

> What did you do with the hole in the front fender?


From keven at ti.com  Sat May 30 23:43:08 2009
From: keven at ti.com (Coates, Keven)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 21:43:08 -0500
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
In-Reply-To: <011501c9e18d$8977d4e0$9c677ea0$@com>
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com><929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com><923D932F-C708-46DF-9210-B4E091EDE003@bgwcomp.com>
	<1260385069-1242974272-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1091514976-@bxe1083.bisx.produk.on.blackberry>
	<01d701c9db47$b4de7a90$1e9b6fb0$@com>
	<DBD26BE3-D46E-4D3A-A270-658462F8A5AF@peskin.org>
	<8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E7F0@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
	<7CE573A1-A652-422D-87D6-CCF7730C1CF2@peskin.org>
	<8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E993@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
	<7D91BCE8-3B1F-48D6-A783-1922B5D044D4@peskin.org>
	<011501c9e18d$8977d4e0$9c677ea0$@com>
Message-ID: <8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5736C1BC3@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

Do post pictures!  I'd be very interested in a DIY center console.  I've considered this before, but never gotten serious enough to do it.

Keven

-----Original Message-----
If I can just get off my butt and upholster the center console I fabricated
I'll have a good spot to stick the docking station and I think it will
really be a slick solution. Maybe this will be the motivation I need to
start to practice sewing so I can get that upholstering done!

From JCool289 at aol.com  Sun May 31 11:11:04 2009
From: JCool289 at aol.com (Jason)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 10:11:04 -0400
Subject: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters
References: <010101c9da77$785c5450$6914fcf0$@com><929e6daa0905211800k3eb284b3hb6e5eca58c934c08@mail.gmail.com><923D932F-C708-46DF-9210-B4E091EDE003@bgwcomp.com><1260385069-1242974272-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1091514976-@bxe1083.bisx.produk.on.blackberry><01d701c9db47$b4de7a90$1e9b6fb0$@com><DBD26BE3-D46E-4D3A-A270-658462F8A5AF@peskin.org><8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E7F0@dlee02.ent.ti.com><7CE573A1-A652-422D-87D6-CCF7730C1CF2@peskin.org><8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA57311E993@dlee02.ent.ti.com><7D91BCE8-3B1F-48D6-A783-1922B5D044D4@peskin.org><011501c9e18d$8977d4e0$9c677ea0$@com>
	<8FFAA0BFC4E5374B8F85F65FE1F2BFA5736C1BC3@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <34CB98D67C8B4318900B8449E52EF065@home2f1db246f2>

i can send pics of my DIY console if you want. its really easy to make. has 
an armrest/storage compartment, uses stock shifter and console style dial, 
also uses the rear light from an original console. i made a slot in the 
front for an aftermarket radio. left the original AM in the dash. its just 
two slabs of plywood for the sides, connected together with little 1x2 
boards. wraped that part in vinyl, then covered the top with cultured marble 
panels i got from work. anything would work for the top.....stained wood, 
aluminum, even vinyl covered wood....i almost used a piece of that snap 
together laminate flooring i had left over from a home project. doing it 
this way i avoided any need to sew....which i cannot do.

let me know if anyone wants some pics and i'll mail them to you off list.

Jason
'66 coupe

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Coates, Keven" <keven at ti.com>
To: <JCOOL289 at aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2009 10:43 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] zune/ipod fm transmitters


> Do post pictures!  I'd be very interested in a DIY center console.  I've 
> considered this before, but never gotten serious enough to do it.
>
> Keven
>
> -----Original Message-----
> If I can just get off my butt and upholster the center console I 
> fabricated
> I'll have a good spot to stick the docking station and I think it will
> really be a slick solution. Maybe this will be the motivation I need to
> start to practice sewing so I can get that upholstering done!
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! http://sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>